hi i'm going to replace my chutch kit on my integra i have a ys1 gsr tranny
does any body lnow where to get info of how to do it or pictures
please help

 

Are you mechanically inclined at all because this is going require removing the transmission, etc.
-Rik

 

This is the guide I used:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...Cfio9N4HYcDukg

Some of the bolt sizes are wrong on there, though. Could be because I have non-oem spec bolts.

TIPS I learned the hard way:
Don't over-tighten small bolts/nuts. I snapped a total of 3 in my lifetime doing clutch installs.

Lowerball joint removal is cake if you do it right.
Jack up the wheel hub, put a ratchet right on top of the LBJ in between that and the metal piece that surrounds it on top. Lower jack and stomp on the wheel hub once your hardest or hammer the ratchet.

Put everything back in reverse order or else you'll run into a lot of trouble and also forget things.

Label bolts because they are very similar! Also things like a DC header could have one long bolt and one short bolt. So sometimes you need to label bolts separately and not just by what it came from.

Torque specs for reinstallation (all in ft/lbs):
10mm tranny ground: 16
10mm tranny wire harness: 7
starter motor cable: 6.5
12mm clutch slave cylinder: 7
14mm clutch slave cylinder: 16
17mm top tranny: 47
14mm starter bolt: 33
17mm castle nuts: 36-43(any point cotter pin will install)
14mm damper fork: 32
17mm damper fork: 47
32mm spindle nut: 134
14mm intermediate shaft mounting bolts: 28
10mm b18c1 heat shield: 7
14mm change extension: 16
12mm b18c1 stiffener: 42
8mm b18c1 stiffener: 17
14mm engine stiffener: 17
17mm engine stiffener: 42
12mm clutch cover: 9
14mm clutch cover: 17
17mm clutch cover: 42
17mm lower tranny mount bracket: 61
14mm lower tranny mount bracket: 33
17mm top tranny mount nuts: 47
17mm top tranny mount bolt into tranny: 47
17mm top tranny mount bolt through bushing: 54
19mm rear lower mount bracket: 87
17mm lower tranny mounting: 47

 

I just got a feelin somthings gonna happen...

 

Once I overtightened wheel sensor and snapped the bolts.

Recently overtightened shift rod and snapped a bolt.

Extractor was hard to get into the cramped area. Had to use a hammer and chisel.

 

OP - "01-19-2008, 10:15 PM"

 

sup

you will need to buy a haynes manual for 20$ or less (find those at parts stores or canadian tire)

also this step by step guide is VERY helpfull with pictures, ur gonna wanna print it.

http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=957

label everything u take off in bags and keep organization.

the tranny is easy if u go slow and have the tools.

tools required are in this article ur gonna wanna print.

the article your gonna wanna use side by side with the haynes manual.
the haynes manual is basicaly a guide incase ur confused with this artcile.

ive did this job recently and about 5 times in my life total and im only 24. i have no power tools and work on the floor with standard jacks and jackstands. if u need anymore help or u get stuck on ANYTHING please pm me as i can give you advice on everything


ittl prolly take you a whole day because your new at it and well you dont wanna break anything either cause then that requires buying parts.

You don't need to take the swaybar endlinks out and you can leave the oil seals in the tranny. while your there though good idea to replace the oil seals if their old due to the fact they could be worn and might leak.

It's also easier to take the driverside axel out as a whole instead of seperating the axle from the intermediate shaft.

The part thats really gonna bother you is torquing everything back to spec when replacing everything or else your front end will be what we call "loose and sloppy"

the specs are on the last page in that article for everything in ft-lbs and i have them all translated to newton meters if your wrench is newton meters like mine, let me know if u want them.

also again, ill be here to help and assist you in anyway, just let me know if u have troubles bro

 

Ressurecting old threads since 2006.

 

lol... remove both axles. remove shift linkage. remove transmission bolts from engine and mounts. remove transmission. don't rotate your flywheel or you could jump timing. remove bolts from old clutch. remove clutch. insert new clutch and backtrace

 

That makes no sense at all, your timing shouldn't "jump" if your timing belt is on there. Don't know where you heard that nonsense

 

if your timing belt is loose enough, and you rotate your flywheels backwards, you could jump timing. it's happened to me before. learn your stuff before attacking me.

 

Your timing belt shouldn't be loose, I know my "stuff" I have done a few dozen clutch jobs as well as put together quite a few engines.

 

I am not here making assumptions on the tension of his timing belt... All i was trying to do was give some helpful advice about something that has happened to me before. Clearly cant even do that without being flamed by some know-it-all

 

stop fighting on an old thread... it pointless

 

If your timing jumps from rotating the flywheel by hand, you would certainly be screwed when you start it up. And since the transmission is on the opposite side of the engine of the timing belt, you would seem to be screwed before the job begins..

 

I rotated my flywheel a lot nothing happened.