I had my wire harness redone by Rywire to convert from my stock 88 CRX Dx with dpfi and no vtech OBD0 to D15B Vtec OBD1 mpfi ok. Now my charging system does not work. I have a brand new battery and i had my alternator tested and its fine. I checked and changed all my fuse (in car and under hood). I called Rywire and they told me a way for me to check my charging system with out pulling the harness out. I didnt quite understand what he was saying when he told me how to check. It was something about starting the car and unplugging the harness from the alternator? I was hoping that you guys could help me out.

 

Take alternator to a store and have it tested. Check belt deflection should be 1/2 in total up and down. Good luck

 

been there done that i had it tested and the belt is fine i no its wiring what do i do?

 

It's not that many wires for the charging system, and for that matter the OBD-0 Plug has the same pinout as the OBD-1 plug does it not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dabigshmo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had my wire harness redone by Rywire to convert from my stock 88 CRX Dx with dpfi and no vtech OBD0 to D15B Vtec OBD1 mpfi ok. Now my charging system does not work. I have a brand new battery and i had my alternator tested and its fine. I checked and changed all my fuse (in car and under hood). I called Rywire and they told me a way for me to check my charging system with out pulling the harness out. I didnt quite understand what he was saying when he told me how to check. It was something about starting the car and unplugging the harness from the alternator? I was hoping that you guys could help me out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just call him back and he will explain further...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dabigshmo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I didnt quite understand what he was saying when he told me how to check. I was hoping that you guys could help me out.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I'd call them back. I highly doubt Rywire 'putting their hands on your harness' is what's wrong.

 

where did you buy your battery. I have had an increase in BAD NEW batteries. Put a testor on the battery and watch for voltage decline! I bet thats the problem! I actually have a battery in my car right now that has this same problem.

 

I agree its prob the battery, Where did you have it tested....please don't say autozone! They told my brother his battery was good but when i tested it with a voltmeter it was bad and would not go about 10v even after trickle charging!!

 

i tested the battery with my volt meter and it read 12v and then when i started the car i put the volt meter to it again and i juss watched the volt number drop gradually 11.94 11.93 11.92 and soo on so i recharged the batter and for those wondering i bought it from pep boys and that where i had my alternator tested so i no its not the battery and i no its not the alternator all my fuses are fine i checked them so i no its the wiring i no that rywire will make good on the harness if the wiring is bad i was just trying to see if there was anything i could do before i had to send it back

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dabigshmo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i no that rywire will make good on the harness if the wiring is bad i was just trying to see if there was anything i could do before i had to send it back</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know that Rywire will walk you through your mistake. I suggest calling them again instead of making these posts.

 

check your grond wires, i had the same problem w/ my crx, and some times it wouldent start, once i hooked up the ground correctly it was charging fine, also you can bypass the regulator by running a wire from the (+) battey to the alt. hope that helps

 

As for testing the battery, you can't just put a voltmeter on it and if it reads 12 or whatever tell if its good or bad That really doesn't mean diddly. What you are looking for are the cranking amps. A battery can be fully charged and read 12 and still go deader than a doornail when you put a load on it.

I am 100% sure if you call Rywire they will help you through your problem.

 

thanks guys

 

I agree with these guys. Just give them a call. They will help you out.

 

you test a battery by putting load on it.

if you want to test if your alt is generating electricity, start your car, and pull off your negative battery terminal.

if it continues to run your alt is good. if it stalls the alt isnt generating any juice.

you should see ~14v when your car is running with the alt hooked up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you want to test if your alt is generating electricity, start your car, and pull off your negative battery terminal.
if it continues to run your alt is good. if it stalls the alt isnt generating any juice.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even that isnt foolproof. it could still run but one of the diodes in the diode rectifier could be burnt and causing problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dabigshmo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i started the car i put the volt meter to it again and i juss watched the volt number drop gradually 11.94 11.93 11.92 </TD></TR></TABLE>

There are only two possible problems from here. Either your alternator is bad (90%) or there is a wiring problem. If your car runs fine for an extended time then it is not the wiring. 11.9v will keep the car running but will not charge the battery.

Your volt meter should be reading 13.5-14v while the car is idling. The alt. has to put out over 12v in order to put power back into the battery.

The only possibility of a wiring issue, is if the harness was modified, it's a small possibilty the wire from the alt. to the battery wasn't wired. But the is highly unlikely. I believe obd0 and obd1 use the same alt. connector so there is not much that needed to be modified there.

You can check alt voltage by using the body as a ground and touch the positive to the positive wire on the back of the alt.

 

check the grounds wit ur volt meter clean ur battery? and ur check ur battery tie downs. it is mostlikely your battery.also try a parastic drain test 4 da charging system

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I know that Rywire will walk you through your mistake. I suggest calling them again instead of making these posts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I sent an email to Rywire in regards to this post.

I know you said you had your alternator tested however if it is new and it hasn't been tested I would get it taken care of. I bought a NEW alternator and 36 hours later after I was 500 miles from home CRX Bart and I changed it out because it was bad. Just FYI.

I'd have battery and alternator test out of the car in store. Then clean all grounds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I sent an email to Rywire in regards to this post.

I know you said you had your alternator tested however if it is new and it hasn't been tested I would get it taken care of. I bought a NEW alternator and 36 hours later after I was 500 miles from home CRX Bart and I changed it out because it was bad. Just FYI.

I'd have battery and alternator test out of the car in store. Then clean all grounds.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Toad, what email? I didnt get one anywhoo, on the harness stated, I do not touch the alternator or anything related to charge... those wires are not cut/changed/touched!

Check it over again, im sure something is off, check the thick one running to the fusebox