P0420, 0304, and 1399
Cat error code
misfires on 4 and random misfires
im 25k over my cap and rotor change so I'm going to correct that but I do need to pass echeck this month without spending the 600 required for another shitty cat. Anybody know of a work around?
misfires on 4 and random misfires
im 25k over my cap and rotor change so I'm going to correct that but I do need to pass echeck this month without spending the 600 required for another shitty cat. Anybody know of a work around?
I have two 2000 Honda accord's ex 23a1 with 98,000 miles. I went by the book with this one, and it says check the fuel pressure (which I did -good-), do a valve adjustment (which I did), check compression (-good-), replaced plugs, cap rotor and ignition coil as well as swapping the ignition control module from my other same vehicle. Emptied the gas tank and put new gas in, and I cleaned the injectors while swapping them as well. This was all done at the same time. The vehicle MIL light went out for 5 minutes when I cleaned the injectors. I also replaced the timing belt, balancer belt and water pump. The EGR was cleaned out the same time as the injectors. I still have DTC's multiple misfires and now cylinder 2 and 4 show up with the 1399. Before I had all 4 cylinders 0301,0302,0303,0304 show up. It all happened after filling up at a gas station in Atelboro Mass. The car started to run rough, like it was missing, and it was loosing power. Sort of like running on less cylinders. The MIL still flashes with DTC's 0300,0302,0304,1399. I need to clear them out again and check if all four pop up again. What am I missing? What can I swap from my other vehicle to check the problem?
I replaced all fuel injectors and Oxygen sensor in front. However, I am still getting a 1399 reading with sometimes 0302 and sometimes with 0300 and or 0304 with 0304 most prevalent. I changed spark plugs in cylinder 4, yet it did not change anything. Engine still sluggish. Next I will test rear Oxygen sensor for continuity and voltage to PCM. Also, my OBD II tester first specified that this affects my catalyst, Evaporator system and Oxygen Sensor, and now it also specifies the EGR as well. However, no codes for those items were displayed. I replaced the cat conv. and map sensor, and I'm still getting 1399 with some combination of 0304 and 0300 with 0302, 0301 if I drive long enough. I haven't replaced the distributor yet, nor have I not replaced the fuel injector pressure regulator, fuel tank pressure sensor, idle air control valve, vapor canister purge solenoid or valve. I noticed spark plug carbon build up on cyl 4,1,2 but not so much on 3. Perhaps cleaning out the intake manifold and EGR could help. Any takers on this problem?
I replaced all fuel injectors and Oxygen sensor in front. However, I am still getting a 1399 reading with sometimes 0302 and sometimes with 0300 and or 0304 with 0304 most prevalent. I changed spark plugs in cylinder 4, yet it did not change anything. Engine still sluggish. Next I will test rear Oxygen sensor for continuity and voltage to PCM. Also, my OBD II tester first specified that this affects my catalyst, Evaporator system and Oxygen Sensor, and now it also specifies the EGR as well. However, no codes for those items were displayed. I replaced the cat conv. and map sensor, and I'm still getting 1399 with some combination of 0304 and 0300 with 0302, 0301 if I drive long enough. I haven't replaced the distributor yet, nor have I not replaced the fuel injector pressure regulator, fuel tank pressure sensor, idle air control valve, vapor canister purge solenoid or valve. I noticed spark plug carbon build up on cyl 4,1,2 but not so much on 3. Perhaps cleaning out the intake manifold and EGR could help. Any takers on this problem?
Problem Solved! After replacing the spark plug wires originally I tested the resistance according to specs. The wires were suppose to be less than 25k ohms. The old ones were around 8k ohms. These were 0 ohms. However, I never took into account that the insulation might be defective, and that one of the wires were grounding out. Consequently, my short wire (#4 plug) was defective. When I added an additional component to the wire (an inline spark signal tester) the engine was back to normal. It's a good thing no one pays me to diagnose their vehicle, for it would cost them a fortune.
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ToolJunkie21
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Jul 17, 2016 01:51 PM
EF9SIRJeff
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Sep 8, 2006 12:13 PM




