I have a 2000 Civic si with

-AEM SRI
-JDM ITR header
-APexi WS2 catback
-CTR intake cam
-B&M FPR

I want to add some more to it to make some more power. I want to stay N/A to keep a reliable DD. Also my car has 90k miles, but the motor is strong. Should I not waste money on a motor with such high mileage?

I don't really want to build it internally.. So basically what else can I do to it without going internal. I was thinking about getting a chipped ECU with a obd2 > obd1 harness, and that's about $250. Is that worth it? Will I gain like 10-15whp?

Right now, how much WHP do you think I'm making with my mods?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

So many people are mis-informed about the reliability of turbos, I highly suggest you read up in the FAQ, I've contributed a few good links on turbo FAQ's as well as turbo build tutorials. You can make a turbo'd honda as reliable as NA.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ke98248 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So many people are mis-informed about the reliability of turbos, I highly suggest you read up in the FAQ, I've contributed a few good links on turbo FAQ's as well as turbo build tutorials. You can make a turbo'd honda as reliable as NA.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking about boost, but I don't want to spend THAT much money. I know a good turbo setup will run me more than $2500, plus tuning.

 

You are correct, it cost me $3,200 tuned for my turbo build, but throwing money at a B16 and just throwing on bolt-ons/motor build-up, it is a waste of money because you'll be spending thousands more to make the same power as a turbo'd B-series motor. Besides the fact that a b16, and bolt-ons don't give you very much extra horsepower for the money that you spend on them.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1998336

 

You have probably spent 2 grand or close too it already just for bolt-ons. I learned this the hard way too. Turbo is the way to go

 

Honestly man look into a 96-00 GS-R engine. It will cost about $2k for the engine with no transmission and will bolt right in. Then you have another effortless 20hp and more torque. Bolt all the existing stuff you have on it and you are good to go. Thats what I would do to step up from a b16a. And 90,000 miles is just broken in on Honda engines! Have some faith!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly man look into a 96-00 GS-R engine. It will cost about $2k for the engine with no transmission and will bolt right in. Then you have another effortless 20hp and more torque. Bolt all the existing stuff you have on it and you are good to go. Thats what I would do to step up from a b16a. And 90,000 miles is just broken in on Honda engines! Have some faith!</TD></TR></TABLE>

why spend $2K on ab B18C engine, when he can spend $1000 +/- for a b18 block, internals, labor and now he has a poor mans ITR.

or he can boost and put out more than a gsr with those bolt ons.

 

i am trying to do the same thing
i am upgrading the ctr pistons and rings, itr cams.spring and retainer. skunk2 intake manifold and throttle body.and all new gaskets for entire engine build up.

 

spray that thing!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ke98248 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So many people are mis-informed about the reliability of turbos, I highly suggest you read up in the FAQ, I've contributed a few good links on turbo FAQ's as well as turbo build tutorials. You can make a turbo'd honda as reliable as NA.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not without a lot of $$$$ and know how. And still..not as reliable as a bolt on NA car with a factory assembled motor. Not gonna happen.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Razr2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 2000 Civic si with

-AEM SRI
-JDM ITR header
-APexi WS2 catback
-CTR intake cam
-B&M FPR

I want to add some more to it to make some more power. I want to stay N/A to keep a reliable DD. Also my car has 90k miles, but the motor is strong. Should I not waste money on a motor with such high mileage?

I don't really want to build it internally.. So basically what else can I do to it without going internal. I was thinking about getting a chipped ECU with a obd2 &gt; obd1 harness, and that's about $250. Is that worth it? Will I gain like 10-15whp?

Right now, how much WHP do you think I'm making with my mods?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

1.) Dont listen to anyone telling you to go turbo if you wanna keep the reliability you've come to love.
2.) Dont crack the motor open to build it unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing...or the shop knows EXACTLY what they're doing.
3.) Your best bet would be to swap in another FACTORY BUILT engine with higher displacement. The B18C5 is expensive. But it will make more power and have more potential. I'm not a huge B18C1 fan...but whatever. It does have more stock power, and power potential than the B16A. A K20A-R will be awesome. But lots of monies..and no more AC. An H22 would be a less expensive choice...but again...no AC and most likely no PS.

The OBD1 conversion will not net you 10-15hp by itself. I dont know who told you that. A chipped P28 might make a little more power since your car is modded. Honestly, you could make some power at that level from a VAFC and dyno tuning. That way you'd keep your OBD2 setup, and have power that was actually TUNED in.

The FPR isnt helping. It might be hurting.

Get a cold air. They add power more consistently than SRIs. Watch for puddles.

90k isnt much at all. But it all depends on the internal condition of the motor. If you're worried about it, do a compression check.

How much more power do you really want? If you want 300whp, ask yourself if a CIVIC is really worth it. At that power level, you're not gonna hook up without slicks anyway. No matter what anyone says..a 300hp B series is not reliable.

That was a serious question. What is your power goal?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not without a lot of $$$$ and know how. And still..not as reliable as a bolt on NA car with a factory assembled motor. Not gonna happen.

1.) Dont listen to anyone telling you to go turbo if you wanna keep the reliability you've come to love.
2.) Dont crack the motor open to build it unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing...or the shop knows EXACTLY what they're doing.
3.) Your best bet would be to swap in another FACTORY BUILT engine with higher displacement. The B18C5 is expensive. But it will make more power and have more potential. I'm not a huge B18C1 fan...but whatever. It does have more stock power, and power potential than the B16A. A K20A-R will be awesome. But lots of monies..and no more AC. An H22 would be a less expensive choice...but again...no AC and most likely no PS.

The OBD1 conversion will not net you 10-15hp by itself. I dont know who told you that. A chipped P28 might make a little more power since your car is modded. Honestly, you could make some power at that level from a VAFC and dyno tuning. That way you'd keep your OBD2 setup, and have power that was actually TUNED in.

The FPR isnt helping. It might be hurting.

Get a cold air. They add power more consistently than SRIs. Watch for puddles.

90k isnt much at all. But it all depends on the internal condition of the motor. If you're worried about it, do a compression check.

How much more power do you really want? If you want 300whp, ask yourself if a CIVIC is really worth it. At that power level, you're not gonna hook up without slicks anyway. No matter what anyone says..a 300hp B series is not reliable.

That was a serious question. What is your power goal?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.. But I am not swapping my motor out. I would like to keep the factory b16a2, although it might not be the motor with the most potential.

As for the FPR, it was on the car when I got it. The original owner said it may be running a little bit rich, but I don't know how to find out. Should I just take it off completely? What do I need to return it back to stock? How do I know if I'm running rich or if it's right?

As for getting a CAI, been there - done that. I live in FL, home of sudden summer rain storm which easily results in 1-2 foot puddles everywhere. I don't want the risk of seizing my motor, just to have 2-3 hp more.

My power goal right now would probably be just a bit more than I'm making now. Right now I think I might be making 150whp. Do you guys think this is a good guess? If so, I would like to see maybe 160-170 whp. I don't know if that's possible without going internal or without FI.

If I do get a VAFC and get it tuned, how much power can I possibly see? Will I need a dyno or street tune?

B serious - Just wanted to thank you since you always seem to come into my threads and give awesome advice/help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Razr2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Right now, how much WHP do you think I'm making with my mods?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

about 143whp and 99trq.

the easiest way to make power with a b16 is throw it away. even an LS motor on that same b16 tranny would be faster than a b16 on its own tranny.

OR....

a profab header, skunk2 stage 2 camsand valvetrain, an aebs intake mani and crome pro and youd make 170whp easy.

eDIT: if youre in tampa, im in land o lakes and i have some of the parts it mentioned above, collecting dust. omnipower valvetrain, skunk2 stage 2 cams and cam gears in a GSR head which would bump your compression .2....giving you another few hp. 800 takes the entire head, cams, and valvetrain which is a STEAL.


Modified by Bury Your Dead at 6:34 AM 12/16/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Razr2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.. But I am not swapping my motor out. I would like to keep the factory b16a2, although it might not be the motor with the most potential.

As for the FPR, it was on the car when I got it. The original owner said it may be running a little bit rich, but I don't know how to find out. Should I just take it off completely? What do I need to return it back to stock? How do I know if I'm running rich or if it's right?

As for getting a CAI, been there - done that. I live in FL, home of sudden summer rain storm which easily results in 1-2 foot puddles everywhere. I don't want the risk of seizing my motor, just to have 2-3 hp more.

My power goal right now would probably be just a bit more than I'm making now. Right now I think I might be making 150whp. Do you guys think this is a good guess? If so, I would like to see maybe 160-170 whp. I don't know if that's possible without going internal or without FI.

If I do get a VAFC and get it tuned, how much power can I possibly see? Will I need a dyno or street tune?

B serious - Just wanted to thank you since you always seem to come into my threads and give awesome advice/help. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well 170hp is definately do-able with a medium spicy B16A setup. Consider that the B16B makes around 160ish WHP. That's with 11:1 (IIRC) compression, and larger intake and exhaust cams. The B16B's cams are larger than that of the pre 00 USDM ITRs. I believe the JDM ITR made the switch to the larger cams in 98.

You can probably reach your goal even with some factory parts. A ITR/CTR or skunk2 intake manifold, CTR or the LARGER ITR cams, and some tuning along with your parts that you currently have could net probably around 160-165ish WHP.

You could also consider the CTR or ITR ECU since the rev band is increased...which will allow you to take advantage of the larger cams. The rev band is still kept in check, though...you're looking around 8700 RPM. No big deal. Just throw in some ITR/CTR springs and you're all set.

I like using as many OEM parts as I can INSIDE the engine. OEM quality&gt; aftermarket quality.

With OEM cams, you get the advantage of excellent honda engineering, longevity, and you can be sure that your other valvetrain components and timing belt wont get beat up and worn out prematurely.

I see that you allready have the CTR intake cam. The exhaust cam is also bigger.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not without a lot of $$$$ and know how. And still..not as reliable as a bolt on NA car with a factory assembled motor. Not gonna happen. If you're looking for that kinda reliability, you mine as well as do nothing to your car, just do regular maintenance and upkeep. I personally know people that have boosted their civics and they've ran them for years without any major issues. The main problem is that people wanna over-boost their motors for more than it can handle, or they romp on it everyday all day, and that's definately going to reduce the engine's life span over a stock NA motor.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Already noted above but I want to elaborate once again that 90k is absolutely nothing for Hondas! Your probably only at 1/4th or less of its lifespan assuming that proper treatment, routine checks, and maintenance are common. Turbo is probably the best alternative for the greater boost you want in ratio with its cost, as other alternatives will cost around the same and significantly less power increase then the turbo.

 

well....bolt on mods and OEM cams are pretty much like leaving the car alone for the most part. Some people want SPEED. That's their #1. Great. Go turbo. Just prepare for the consequences. Romping on a car everyday is fun. Turbo'd hondas can claim only drag race and daily driving miss daisy reliability...even at that point, it's B.S. Someone in another forum tried to cut me down by saying "My turbo B16A has 300whp on stock internals, ans revs to 9500RPM. I've driven it 30k miles...i usually do drive it pretty easy on the streets. It has also made over 100 1/4 mile passes."

You know what 100 1/4 mile passes equal out to? 25 MILES!! thats it.
30k miles daily driving reliability? Who gives a ****?
If a car company sold you a car with the kind of "reliability' turbo guys claim, everyone would consider it a peice of ****.

There's other people that claim longevity for OVER A YEAR!!! OMGZ!! A YEAR!! again...who gives a ****?

The OP wanted to keep the reliability he's known over the ownership of his car. I'm not going to lie to him and say "go turbo.....you'll keep that reliability".

 

LOL B serious You are awesome OEM is the Best way to go if you want reliability and some extra power CTR and ITR Parts are the best they will outlive most if not all aftermarket parts

Years of r&d go in to cars to make them what they are

 

If your only looking for the extra thump once in a while and you dont need it all the time put a 35 wet shot on a WOT switch. or even a 50 shot would still be reliable.

 

Theres two of these threads goin right now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MR Rodgers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Theres two of these threads goin right now </TD></TR></TABLE>

there always is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

there always is</TD></TR></TABLE>

joes

 

ITR cams would be an easy upgrade. Also some high comp pistons would make more power, maybe an even more aggressive set of cams for use with a high compression setup. use a chipped ecu (chrome, uberdata, hondata) and get tuned.