12's in a CRX NA?? What do i have to do to run a 12.9??
I was wonderin im runnin 14.5 Now with IHE and Cam gears i made 147hp at the wheels. I have the engine all aprt and i just ported and polished the head and i am thinkin of puttin my GSR in the car with B16A pistons init just wonderin what else ill have to do to make the car run 12.9 with these mods and plus a set of cams?????
why dont cha run a turbo? or NOS? i know its an easy/simple answer but all them professional guys use them. without either of those no civics would be running 9's. u can go so far with only "all motor" u know what im sayin'
Definately throw at least the GSR bottom end in there. Torque is a good thing
. Then go with the B16 piston Idea for that 11ish:1 CR, and put some cams in there to take advantage of the higher compression. Strap it on a dyno, tune the **** out of it, and get some traction at the track. If youre not hittin at least 12.90s there then something's wrong. My $.02. Good luck
.
PS: Theres no need for that FI stuff to hit 12s in a rex.
. Then go with the B16 piston Idea for that 11ish:1 CR, and put some cams in there to take advantage of the higher compression. Strap it on a dyno, tune the **** out of it, and get some traction at the track. If youre not hittin at least 12.90s there then something's wrong. My $.02. Good luck
.PS: Theres no need for that FI stuff to hit 12s in a rex.
The two most important things needed to get you in the 12's would be traction and weight reduction. Get all the weight out of the car every extra pound counts. If you can't get it to hook you will never get in the 12's no matter what you put under the hood.
One word: H22.
My friend's stock H22/CRX HF hits 12.8's. Full interior, bone stock motor not even an intake. Throw some slicks on and learn to drive. 
Or else the B18c bottom end would be a good alternative (not to mention cheaper and easier to drive).
My friend's stock H22/CRX HF hits 12.8's. Full interior, bone stock motor not even an intake. Throw some slicks on and learn to drive. 
Or else the B18c bottom end would be a good alternative (not to mention cheaper and easier to drive).
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One word: H22.
My friend's stock H22/CRX HF hits 12.8's. Full interior, bone stock motor not even an intake. Throw some slicks on and learn to drive. 
Or else the B18c bottom end would be a good alternative (not to mention cheaper and easier to drive).
My friend's stock H22/CRX HF hits 12.8's. Full interior, bone stock motor not even an intake. Throw some slicks on and learn to drive. 
Or else the B18c bottom end would be a good alternative (not to mention cheaper and easier to drive).
Doesnt he have understeer problems??
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One word: H22.
My friend's stock H22/CRX HF hits 12.8's. Full interior, bone stock motor not even an intake. Throw some slicks on and learn to drive. 
Or else the B18c bottom end would be a good alternative (not to mention cheaper and easier to drive).
Doesnt he have understeer problems??
My friend's stock H22/CRX HF hits 12.8's. Full interior, bone stock motor not even an intake. Throw some slicks on and learn to drive. 
Or else the B18c bottom end would be a good alternative (not to mention cheaper and easier to drive).
Doesnt he have understeer problems??
El Veterano de Sur Califas
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 8,064
Likes: 1
From: los angeles, ca
well i have a b18c1 in my rex,and best time was 14.1 on slicks . Now that was with a stock b16a exhaust manifold, crx cai, and 2.2" exhaust. i also had a s2 IM, and 62mm TB. I am going to instal an itr intake cam, dc jdm 4-1 header, 2.5" piping and muffler, a 3" cai. I am hoping to run a mid 13's....but i hope it will be closer to a low 13. And then after that i am going to install some jdm itr pistons, and some jun 3's. and that will put me in the 12's. Also tunning will be done of course.
So thats a 12 sec car at 2600 ft level....and since ur at northridge u will most likely go to lacr.
manny
So thats a 12 sec car at 2600 ft level....and since ur at northridge u will most likely go to lacr. manny
a B16A2 going 12.90's? pray, do tell. is the car completely stripped? doors removed, replaced by plastic, hatch removed, plastic. ahaha
jun 3's.......i don't know about that one. i have heard about a LOT of them cracking. plus, they are almost completely unstreetable. no power until like 7000 rpm! plus, you will need a very sturdy bottom end to stay together in the high r's those cams need. skunk2 made some replica's, and they had more midrange torque, not to mention, they weren't cracking and were a lot cheaper. skunk2 even warrentied them for like a year. i have heard that crower 402's were about as aggressive for the street as you want to go.
jun 3's.......i don't know about that one. i have heard about a LOT of them cracking. plus, they are almost completely unstreetable. no power until like 7000 rpm! plus, you will need a very sturdy bottom end to stay together in the high r's those cams need. skunk2 made some replica's, and they had more midrange torque, not to mention, they weren't cracking and were a lot cheaper. skunk2 even warrentied them for like a year. i have heard that crower 402's were about as aggressive for the street as you want to go.
Not stripped save for the trunk interior, but thats it. Mods are port and polished head, titanium valve springs, stainless steel valves, JG Edelbrock header, 2 1/2" exhaust, Invidia muffler, ACT stag 3 clutch, racing ECU and Apexi VAFC.
I shift at 9000 , use an LSD tranny with really cose ratio gears (not exactly sure what they are), and no not on slicks.
[Modified by A2CRX, 3:41 AM 6/29/2002]
[Modified by A2CRX, 3:41 AM 6/29/2002]
El Veterano de Sur Califas
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 8,064
Likes: 1
From: los angeles, ca
jun3' are very streetable, and millions of people have them with no probs. But hey if u wanna beleive everything u read.....then go for it.
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