i just got some ADR wheels used from someone here on honda tech. When i went to install the wheels, it seems the lug nuts wont go on more than 5-6 turns. They did torque down to 85 without a problem so im just not sure if im ok or not.

any help would be great.
im not sure what other info i should put in here, so if im missing something ask and ill add it.

thank you.

 

torque is 80 ft lbs. you should normally get 7-10 turns on lugs. is there any brake clips still on the hubs?????? just in case... Does the wheel sit perfectly flush up against the hub?????

 

Check to see if the hub bore is the right diameter, by pulling that centercap off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyomatt84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check to see if the hub bore is the right diameter, by pulling that centercap off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the center bore is smaller than the hub, the wheel might be sitting on top of the hub rather than surrounding it. Which is a big, big no-no. Check this, and don't drive on the car if that's what's happening.

Another possibility - it looks like there isn't much room around the outside of the lug nuts. Do you have sockets whose walls are thin enough that they don't interfere with the wheel as they torque down the lug nuts? Test one inside a lug hole without a lug nut in it, to see.

I'm betting toyomatt84 is right, though.

 

i checked the center bore its ok, the rim is sitting flush against the drum in the back and the rotor on the front.

it just seems weird that its like this. the lug nut fits in there perfect, i took the wheel off and put a lug nut in the hole and looked from the back side. I could see the lug sit where it was supposed to.

looks like i have to use an extended stud, i just dont see why on a normal aftermarket wheel.

anything else i can check? is 5 turns on the lug nut ok? It torqued to 80ft/lb just fine.

thank you.

 

I've heard some people say you need 6 full turns, others say you need 7. I've never heard anyone claim that 5 is okay.

It's very weird, though. Can you tell whether those wheels are thicker than your other ones? Not the width of the wheel, but the thickness of the metal between the outside of the wheel and the inside of the wheel, where the lug nuts go. It would have to be much thicker if you don't get as many turns with these wheels as with your old wheels.

 

ill measure it and post back.

even if the metal is thicker, it seems like my only solution will be extended studs. sucks.


btw, i just painted the seat of the lug nut to see if it was fully seated against the rim. The paint rubbed off on the whole seat, so the lug nut is seating fully, and thats not the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y7turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">even if the metal is thicker, it seems like my only solution will be extended studs. sucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y7turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw, i just painted the seat of the lug nut to see if it was fully seated against the rim. The paint rubbed off on the whole seat, so the lug nut is seating fully, and thats not the problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Good idea. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i can come up with one once and a while. lol

thanks for the help.

 

If you've already checked everything else, consider the following: Since you're using the same studs (w/ the same threads) less turns once the nut contacts the rim seat means there is less clamping force between the hub and rim. The torque you read on your wrench is just a function of the friction of the stud threads to receiving nut threads and also the friction between the rim and nut. Therefore, if the receiving seats in the rim are rougher/more gouged than your old rim, or the threads on the new nuts are rougher, you will reach the torque value a lot sooner.

Is this cause for concern? It really depends on how the rim/hub system is designed. If you reduce the clamping force, then it's more likely the rim will "slip" and transfer its force into the studs. The rim isn't designed to bear all its force on the stud is it? Someone else could maybe chime in.


Modified by cinci27 at 7:06 PM 12/12/2007