It looks simple enough to do, but I've never done it before and don't wanna jack anything up. And I'm pretty sure that I gotta take if to an alignment shop after replacing it, but other than that Iono what to do. So does anybody know the correct procedure to changing the outer tie rod end. Oh and its on the passenger side, if that makes a difference. Car is a 90 Integra.

 

Remove castle nut from tie rod end.
Pop off balljoint.
Unscrew tie rod end.
Remove the tie rod nut and count the number turns while doing so. (Maybe marking the placement of the nut)
Then repeat the instructions with the new parts in reverse.

And def. get an alignment.

Ali

 

Hmmm....so it is as simple as I thought it was. Thanks bro.

 

Yup, simple as that. The best thing to do is count how many turns it takes to remove the old tie rod/nut to help put the new one as close as possible so your toe (i think the tie rod affects toe). I didn't do this cause I am an idiot and my toe ended up being real bad. My tires were screeching the whole way to the alignment shop.

Obviously you'll want to get an alignment right after.

Ali

 

As long as it's an OEM replacement, you should be able to get it real close by counting or measuring the length.

Do get an alignment though

 

Since you're replacing the tie rods anyway, which come with new ball joints, the easiest way to pop the old ones is to just use a pickle fork. This will tear the boot to shreds, but it doesn't matter.

I always back the lock nut away from the tie rod, then count the number of turns as the tie rod comes off and do the same as the new one goes on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since you're replacing the tie rods anyway, which come with new ball joints, the easiest way to pop the old ones is to just use a pickle fork. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true, I didn't realize this until I started on the second tie rod.

Ali

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrinceAli132 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is true, I didn't realize this until I started on the second tie rod.

Ali</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nah, just undo the nut, and hit the side of the knuckle with a hammer. It will pop right out, with no messy grease to deal with.

 

I tried that, the damn balljoint wouldn't unseal.

Ali

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrinceAli132 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried that, the damn balljoint wouldn't unseal.

Ali</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is a very common problem with older cars.

Worst case senario, grab a torch and heat it up. Beat it hard with a hammer. You will have to put a new one it though

 

I just used a pickle fork as Patrick mentioned. Two taps with a hammer and it was all good.

Ali

 

Yeah I've had success by hitting the knuckle with a hammer for times when I was not putting in new tie rod ends, but then again the tie rod ends I was separating were only a couple of years old.

These days I just use my air hammer with a flat-faced chisel (3/4" diameter round bar w/ flat end) and beat on the knuckle 20+ times per second. That usually takes care of it with no damage to any of the ball joints.

 

good stuff here. i'll be doing this on my daily... hopefully this weekend before it starts getting really bad.