Hey, I just registered, I've looked around this forum for about a week now, its pretty sweet :tu

Now, I own a 1998 Civic Lx sedan, and I got it used. This car came with a Sony Xplod headunit, and an aftermarket alarm.

The original OEM stereo is on the upper console thing, and the Sony is right above the cupholders.

The alarm is a Preformance Teknique, its got a 2-way pager remote, with a picture of the car on it. It has remote start, and the trunk popper.

The alarm worked fine when I first got the car. About 6 months ago, it broke. The remote works fine (backlight works, vibrate works, makes sounds), but it won't arm/disarm/communicate with the car. I thought, oh well, no biggie, I didn't really NEED one anyways.

Now the way the guy told me everything was wired is, the alarm would only work if the stock stereo was there, and that the power lock button on the drivers door wouldn't work.

It gets really annoying to have to get in the car, then open all the doors manually by pulling them since my alarm broke.

Also, there is a problem that just came up a few days ago that when I turned the key to ignition, where all the warning lights would go on, my side blinkers and dash and gauges would light up and go off, light up and go off, in rhythm with a tiny clicking sound.

The alarm has never activated any of the lights on the car, so I don't get whats causing this sound.

So my question is, is it easy to completely remove this alarm myself, and rewire everything back to its original state? I took apart the whole dashboard a few days ago, and took out the headunit, then put it back in. Might I have messed something up when doing this? Also, I kinda poked around at the wires on the driver's side under the fusebox looking for a hole thru the firewall, to wire my new amp to.

Thanks for reading this, I went to Best Buy and asked them to take it off, and they quoted me $35 I believe.

 

Your problems are related to the alarm, remove it and that should fix most of the problems.
The clicking is the light-flash relay in the alarm, it is flashing the cars park light circuit, [although it shouldn't when you turn on the ign.].

If you have an aftermarket alarm and it's wired to the door locks, you do not need to keep the stock HU in place, it is only there for the key-less entry, [OEM remote] and the dome light.
If you do not want an alarm get a basic key-less entry unit, get the adapter plug, [Scosche] for the key-less and dome light, and get rid of the stock HU. 94

 

Honestly, 35 for the removal of your alarm does not seem too bad if you don't wanna mess with it. At least they have to get the car running again when there done. Also, the driver side switch might just be unplugged. Allot of people do this as it's the easiest way for a thief to get into your car.

 

White Smoke, I was running my power wire for my new amp today, and saw the main brain thing for the alarm right next to the pedal you can rest your foot on. There are several fused wires all bunched together and taped, and I noticed a in-line fuse holder that didn't have a fuse in it. Perhaps that might be the problem?
Also, what do you mean by "the driver side switch might just be unplugged"? Where is this switch located?


fcm - there so many parts to this alarm, I don't know where to start removing it! theres the roof sensor, hood sensor, door sensors, the siren, the main unit, and it's all wired into a tangled bunch.

 

As mentioned, $35 for an uninstall is pretty good.

Removing the alarm may look hard but it is pretty easy, [$35 to remove], everything has to go to the main brain, so start there, unplug all harnesses, and one by one follow the leads to where they are connected to the cars wiring, start with one wire from one harness and remove it compactly, remove all the wires from that harness before moving to the next harness, start with the harness with the least number of wires.
As you remove wires/harnesses it gets easier.
All you should need for tools is a set of good side cutters a roll of good electrical tape.
If you have any immobilizing relays, [starter cut/ign. kill and so on] you will need a soldering gun to reconnect the cut leads properly, some shrink tube for the cut leads would be good also. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sde780 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">White Smoke, I was running my power wire for my new amp today, and saw the main brain thing for the alarm right next to the pedal you can rest your foot on. There are several fused wires all bunched together and taped, and I noticed a in-line fuse holder that didn't have a fuse in it. Perhaps that might be the problem?
Also, what do you mean by "the driver side switch might just be unplugged"? Where is this switch located?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry for the delayed response. Yes, that fuse could easily be your problem. The switch I am talking about is on the door panel itself. On your civic it should be molded into the door handle.

 

So I went ahead and bought a fuse for that, it still didn't work.

What do you mean, the door panel? Like inside the door? What does this switch look like?

Thanks for all the help guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sde780 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I went ahead and bought a fuse for that, it still didn't work.

What do you mean, the door panel? Like inside the door? What does this switch look like?

Thanks for all the help guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

He is talking about your door lock switch, in the door handle. You will have to remove the door panel to see if its unplugged I believe... unless those just pop out, I can't remember.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will have to remove the door panel to see if its unplugged I believe... unless those just pop out, I can't remember.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope. Screw behind the handle, then they shimmy outta there.

 

oh i see what you mean. ill look into it