Hi. This is my first post on this site and i have been all over the place trying to get the correct answers to a few questions i have. so any feedback would be appriciated. I have a 2000 Honda Civic Si with 90k on it. well taken care of, timing belt replaced etc. I just purchased a Jackson Racing Supercharger off of ebay with only 7000 miles on it in great condition. The guy said it comes with everything needed to bolt on and drive but he said he'd recommend getting 330 cc or 440 cc injectors and a FMU. My question is this. I am only going to be running 7psi with no intention to ever tune or upgrade anything else. i just want a little extra hp and torque. Am i going to destroy my motor or damage anything serious if i just use the stock injectors, stock fuel pump? I know JR has the MAP controller so that the stock map sensor can read boost as well as vacume, but if i got that, would i still need the FMU (the one that goes between the fuel pressure regulator and the return line i.e. vortech 70.00$ ones) i heard that they are garbage and hurt the engine and run rich. i don;t have much money at all, but i was hoping that with the stock 6-7 psi, i wouldn't need anything extra except what came with the kit. hope someone can help me.

 

lol if you wanna do anything food for your car.. get it tuned cuz thas about the only good advice you can get right now.. or save urself money and save ur motor and jus sell it if u dnt wanna tune it

 

go turbo

 

What on that kit controls the fuel enrichment? My kit relied on a boost actuated FMU, and yes, it was complete garbage.

 

well thats the thing. the JRSC site said its bolt on ready but theres no fuel management. what u an trying to figure out is if i buy the mao sensor controller, will that give me the extra fuel i need? or do i need to buy that and then a FMU on top of that???

 

Well like i said, i already bought the supercharger kit, and second, i'd much rather prefer supercharger over turbo simply becuse theres no lag, and no oil lines and drilling into the oil pan,... but thanks anyway

 

Have you ever been in a turbo Honda?

Lag really isn't an issue if you do your research and put together a set up that will suit your needs. On highway in 5th gear, with a little throttle I have about 5psi at 3.0-3.5K rpms. More than enough to pass anything in the way without a down shift.

The oil lines are not a big deal either, don't let that scare you. Just find an oil pan for sale on here that has already been taped. That way when you are installing everything, all you have to do is swap out you stock one for the new one.

Tune is also a must, unless you want the motor to run inefficiently and eventually blow. I have been tuned by Jeff Evans twice. I get over 35mpg on the highway with RC 750cc injectors. I drove from Long Island, New York to PA to get tuned, made at least 12 dyno pulls and 3 to 4 pulls during the street tune and drove home on about 3/4 of a tank. Car runs and idles like stock. Oh and I made 363whp and 250ft/lbs on 13psi .

If you want the car to be reliable, do it right the first time. I daily drove my car for 2 years boosted with out any major issues. (The alternator went after about 1.5 years boosted but that doesn't count) Let me know if I can help you with anything else!

Also:

Small amount of lag = More time to get traction

 

So much information from people who've never run a JRSC, gotta love H-T


The JRSC works fine at 6-7 PSI with stock injectors and the JR FMU.

The big downfall of the base kit is that you have to retard your base timing a lot to get it to be correct at max RPM/boost. That means the car is sluggish at lower RPM. The quick/easy/cheap fix for this is the JR MAP controller, which lets you restore most of your timing and low-RPM drivability. You keep the FMU with the MAP controller, the only time you'd get rid of the FMU is if you switch to bigger injectors, which would require some type of tunable solution that would let you adjust injector duty cycle (i.e. standalone or chipped ECU)

A base kit with a MAP controller added to it is cheap, reliable, and a lot of fun. Personally I like them better than small turbo kits because they have linear torque delivery that I find to be more drivable, but that's just me.

 

fmu works, yes
is it ideal, hell no it only uses a boost reference then adds fuel regardless of any other factor.

 

I just so happen to have a JR Boost Ignition Retard box that I'm not using, would let you retard timing only when in boost...

 

by the way, it shouldnt be called turbo lag. a more accurate name would be foreplay!!!! hahaha

 

thanks for your help. that makes a lot of sense and i feel the same way. thats why i bought a supercharger and not a turbo. i had a turbo kit on my integra and it just didn;t do it for me. :-)

 

by telling me that your not using the map controller anymore, are you implying that you want to sell it?? lol

 

jr superchargers dont need oil run to them? i never knew that, how lond do they last before needing a rebuild?

And to the opriginal poster, trust me when i say save up for some good fuel managment. especiallyif you tight on money now, because when you need a new motor your going to wish you spent the money before. and i have read that the boost timing retard device works pretty good with the supercharger kit. so at the minimum get that.

Landon

 

The oil that comes in them is supposed to be good for about 100K miles before it needs an oil change.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importech24 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by telling me that your not using the map controller anymore, are you implying that you want to sell it?? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes .

Here's what it is:
http://www.supercharger.com/Sh...der=1

That link is to the civic one, mine says "prelude" on it, but I'm sure they're the exact same thing.

Edit: I just checked, and the only difference is the prelude version has wires to hook into the ATTS system, which I don't even use, so it should work fine. The wiring instructions are a little different for the civic, but it's just different ECU pins than the prelude's.

 

Get a tune, how the hell is a FMU gonna be able to give you the right amount of fuel accurately? Your saying you want this reliable but all that FMU is going to do is wash your rings out if you leave it on there for awhile.

I understand is its just a temp fix but dont let it become a permanent issue.

 

Dont use the FMU for your tuning. Get a chipped OBD1 ecu and run Crome at very least. The FMU will get you within the "acceptable" AFR range, but is less than ideal.

Also for those who are arguing turbo vs supercharger, its all a matter of preference. I know where i stand, but i'm not going to force my ideas upon anyone else...just show them the facts and let them decide what's right.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=688120

 

Well i'm not saying it would be a permananet fix but it might be for a month or two. I actually went and emailed a technical rep at moss motors and asked them what the FMU ratio should be. I was under the impression that i;d at least need a 10:1 vortech FMU or something of that nature, but this is what he wrote back to me "The original AFPR [FMU] in that SC kit is a fixed 5.0:1 ratio unit which is all that is required in a base kit. The boost reactive AFPR should be retained after installing the MAP conversion. The switch, resistor & relay parts are what go." So after reading that, i;m not as worried about washing out my rings since the majority of that fuel will be burned, and i won;t have the extra 5 to 7 lbs of fuel pressure being dumped in my cylinders. Correct me if i am wrong, but if all that is required in a Jackson racing SC base kit of 6 psi is a 5:1 ratio in an FMU, shouldn;t i be ok since they designed it speciically for that kit and its not dumping in al that fuel? I can either buy the JRSC FMU of of there site, or i could always buy the adjustable Cartech (bell engineering) FMU and turn it down to 5:1. . . . I figure if the FMU is included in the base supercharger kit, and they state that its reliable and safe fopr the engine, why would they sell it if it washes the rings out? I;m sure someone would hve had to have sued them by now if that many people were washing out there rings because of it. I appriciate the response, but i'm under the impresion your refering to the universal/ebay Vortech/OBX/Blox 12:1 FMU's.

 

Rather than dealing with technology from 15 years ago, why dont you spend a little bit of money on a chipped ECU and tuning. Not only will it optimize the power from your JRSC kit, but then you will know for sure that your AFRs are where they should be...