thought i would throw up my project.
i bought my 88crx from a friend and ht member(5thgearburnout...check out his sfwd 42r EK coupe)
last year as a shell and have started my own drag car project.
the car went 10.80's@145mph on 40R(low boost made around 600whp and did track long burnouts)
my new motor is getting built this month and i should be driving it down the 1320' by summer.
specs.
84mm ERL sleeved b18c1
SI complete valvetrain equipped gsr head
gt35R
Tial 44mm gate and Bov
controlled via AEM EMS
air to water IC (if fab goes as planned)
will be riding on lenso's 8.7x25x13's and lenso skinnies out back.
and a laundry list of other supporting parts.


what i need help with is trying to put this power to the ground. i would only assume that spoolup on my 35r will be every bit as fast to what he had on a 40r and probably faster. i know my tuner has been able to get pretty creative with boost control on other high hp fwd's in my area to help aid it traction.
But what are other people out there doing to put it to the pavement? this is my first high hp honda. my dd is a 94gsr that makes about 240whp on nitrous, traction still sucks with that but no where near what this car will have.

to answer a few questions i know that will come up. yes it has traction bars, custom made i believe. and is lacking a little in the suspension dept. as its on ground control coilovers, i dont' believe he changed the springs at all.

wether it be wheelie bars, ballast boxes, or just a lot of seat time and good boost control, just lookin for some help. thanks in advance, this site helps a lot!

 

good boost controll is your best option. this is NLR's newest controller...its a dual stage with adjustable ramp rate on one stage. with the 35r this controller will be very good for you.

if you were running a 42 or something making big power i'd suggest the ams-1000...but the 500 should get the job done at half the price

 

i already purchased the aem boost control solenoid, is that going to be sufficent or should i look at upgrading?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by midnight94R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i already purchased the aem boost control solenoid, is that going to be sufficent or should i look at upgrading?</TD></TR></TABLE>

that will be fine if you can set it up. you will need the proper size slick, some good traction bars like f-r, good suspension, and lots of seat time and trial and error.

 

its early to give definite answers, suspension will probably be changed to at least omni drag rears. trans as of now is a y21 hydro b16, stock gearing and fd, slicks are 8.7x25x13 m&h's. not sure where we will set the rev limit at, i know the valvetrain is good to 10K,tuning is done by a friend and shop owner that has some wicked turbo cars to his credit his ems tuning is always spot on. it will definitely take a lot of shake down passes to find out what the car; and i, like. just trying to give myself the best shot before i make the first pass.
thanks again.


Modified by midnight94R at 6:34 PM 12/2/2007

 

suspension, we built a set of tractionbars up front for mine, that replaces the front member, and its height adjustable, much like a rwd 4 link setup

 

good idea, mine doesn't have the bottom radiator support, it has a moly tube connecting the rails together, its hard to describe. i'll try to get pics up tomorrow of my empty engine bay

with the bracket as you described are you changing the angle of the bars that run to the lca? do you have a pic?

 

i'll try to get a pic, but i wont see my car til next weekend. ya, it changes the angle af an A shaped bar that connects the front cross bar to the LCA's.
one bar at the top of the LCA and one at the bottom, the meet about 1/2 way and go to the front bar. the bottom LCA bar is actuall 1 bar to the front, and the top one just ties into it., i'll try to MS paint it

 

Suspension, weight distribution, boost control, traction bars, aerodynamics, shift points, tire size, tire pressure, launch control, traction control, wheelie bars, etc etc... So many areas that play key roles in getting the car to hook and go. I'd suggest getting a log book and logging your dyno and track sessions. Keep everything well logged and note the changes and analyze them. You'll figure out what works best for you! Good luck!

 

ok, here's my 1st attempt at an automotive MSPaint
enjoy, dont laugh too hard, cuz i already am










the LCA's were machined flat in 1 spot, so our brackets could sit flat and bolt through.
the front holes are the height adjustment, make sure the rear rod ends are adjustable enough etc.


Modified by Garage 808 Hatch at 7:21 PM 12/2/2007


Modified by Garage 808 Hatch at 7:23 PM 12/2/2007

 

i'm no artist so i can't give anyone **** haha. would there be any negative effects of having the bars go to an adjustable plate mounted to the frame rails? from your drawing you make the bar height adjustments on a plate welded to the front bar? here's my different drawings to ms paint automotive drawings lol

 

i think if it were on the fram rail, it may be too far out/ near tires , reducing turning radius to almost nothing. or are you talking about the whole front assembly moving upwards? if so, it may be kinda hard to move the entire front bar, then adjust the rods ends. where as in our setup, you just undo and move/adjsut the bar

 

as i think about it, that would be a major pain to adjust having it on the frame. and turning radius would be bad. how low is your front bar? i would only guess that one would want it flat as possible. i'm not sure what would actually happen if the angle was higher from the front bar to the lca. it probably wouldn't matter since its a drag car and camber gain is primarily effected while turning.

have you (or anyone else) set your alignment after the bars are in and then adjusted the spherical rod ends for proper caster/camber. i'm really probably giving this too much thought. both those can be adjusted on the plates at the top of the strut assembly but by locking in the LCA it wouldn't serve much purpose to have the ability to adjust it at the strut tower.


sorry if my posts sound like needless rambling. my mind is full of mostly useless thoughts.

 

yes, i had the caster adjusted to factory specs using the rods.

the front bar i think is about level with the lower bracket under the LCA, it is well above the NHRA minimum. i believe the straight bar on the traction bar is level when on the lowest adjustment hole