Could someone point me in the right direction for a ball joint tool that handles upper, lower, and tie rod ends? Does anyone make one? Destroyed lowers and dont want to destroy uppers.

 

Anyone try this on an ef? http://www.jcwhitney.com/webap...10101

 

For lower ball joints, read this and it will change your life:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1544731
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=490117

 

http://www.autozone.com/select...p.htm

try this works for me everytime!

 

its called a 3lb sledge hammer.

 

No thanks, thats why I have to get lower ones.

 

you didnt hit it in the right place then a hammer works everytime. The problem with the tools is sometimes they dont fit right, and a pickle fork always wrecks them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwbnavy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No thanks, thats why I have to get lower ones. </TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe its the nut holding the hammer thats the problem...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1912773

 

Hey man i am sure a hammer worked well for your car. It did not work well for mine.
My ball joints were pretty well fused together due to being an 18 year old car.

 

I think I lift too much becoming to caveman like.

 

Tyson I could not get your links to work, have you tried them. Will the 3lb hammer work on opening the file on my computer?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwbnavy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tyson I could not get your links to work, have you tried them. Will the 3lb hammer work on opening the file on my computer? </TD></TR></TABLE>

file works fine. i recommend a 3lbs sledge on your broken computer.

video files are hosted on this forums server locally as well.
http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=5983

 

ID10T error

 

Got it to work I think I will try again with hammer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwbnavy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ID10T error </TD></TR></TABLE>
must have been that nut again...

 

Just get a 4lb hammer and a pickle fork and hit it hard.

 

If you pay close attention to the knuckle there are certain bosses on the knuckle aswell as the low control arm in the area that the ball joint is. These are 'smash' marks. You can beat the knuckle/LCA at those location to 'pop' the ball joint from it's tapered grip. It takes anywhere from a love tap to a strong arm smash, sometimes many, to pop them out. But you never wreck anything in doing so.

Note: You will need good aim to not smash the threads/rotor. Try putting the nut at the bottom of the thread to prevent smashing the threads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rd91sib18c5r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just get a 4lb hammer and a pickle fork and hit it hard. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the whole point is to not destroy the ball joint

 

Use a pickle fork then replace the grease cap on the ball joint.



Can be found here:
http://www.partsamerica.com/Pr...3613D

 

i didnt click the links but for the lower you can use a 1/2" drive craftsman ratchet. never use pickle forks thats old technology.