...ball joint question
03-01-2006, 03:39 PM
#1
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...ball joint question
if i was going to use a pickle fork to seperate a ball joint in my front suspension would i destroy my ball joint? i tried the "double hammer" method where you put a hammer on one side and bang on the other side to seperate it but that didnt work...any suggestions would be great.
03-01-2006, 05:11 PM
#5
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Re: ...ball joint question (0mghi2u2)
its will most likely destroy the boot. boots are relatively cheap tho.
it wont destroy the balljoint.
the hammer method is the best. what you described above doesnt sound right at all. what weight hammer? wont work with anything less than a 3lb sledge.
it wont destroy the balljoint.
the hammer method is the best. what you described above doesnt sound right at all. what weight hammer? wont work with anything less than a 3lb sledge.
03-01-2006, 05:30 PM
#7
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Re: ...ball joint question (0mghi2u2)
yes. just hit the nub. thats why its there. youre not going to get anywhere with a carpenters hammer.
putting the castle nut back on at the end helps protect the threads in case of an errant strike.
do NOT hit the balljoint upwards.
putting the castle nut back on at the end helps protect the threads in case of an errant strike.
do NOT hit the balljoint upwards.
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03-01-2006, 09:35 PM
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Re: ...ball joint question (0mghi2u2)
try jacking the lca up and sticking a 3/4 inch racket in the space between the lca and the knucle right next to the ball joint.
if you have springs it should pop right off.
if not do that trick and hammer the nub it should help some.
if you have springs it should pop right off.
if not do that trick and hammer the nub it should help some.
03-01-2006, 11:02 PM
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03-01-2006, 11:10 PM
#11
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Re: ...ball joint question (Quad-Damage)
I use something similar to this. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/KD-2289.html
Works perfectly every time and only takes about 20 seconds.
Works perfectly every time and only takes about 20 seconds.
03-02-2006, 04:08 AM
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Re: ...ball joint question (Quad-Damage)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks dude...erik, i dont really feel like spending cash on that right now...lol...
thanks dude...erik, i dont really feel like spending cash on that right now...lol...
03-02-2006, 08:23 AM
#13
Re: ...ball joint question (0mghi2u2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is hands down the BEST method for separating the lower balljoint.
For the other two (upper & tie-rod) balljoints, a Tie Rod Lifter is the tool that honda recomends. I've rented it in the "Checker auto parts 5 piece front end service kit", and it works perfectly every time. No damage to anything ever...
That is hands down the BEST method for separating the lower balljoint.
For the other two (upper & tie-rod) balljoints, a Tie Rod Lifter is the tool that honda recomends. I've rented it in the "Checker auto parts 5 piece front end service kit", and it works perfectly every time. No damage to anything ever...
03-02-2006, 09:04 AM
#14
Honda-Tech Member
Re: ...ball joint question (94eg!)
ive added this thread to the main faq. if anyone has any more tips or illustrations, please add.
btw, ive tried those "pushers", both the pitman and the "oem" tool, they have failed me and destroyed my balljoint by compressing or bending the threads on the balljoint because it put too much pressure before it ever popped off. everyone has their favorite way, but i still advocate just banging on it with a 3lb hammer.
btw, ive tried those "pushers", both the pitman and the "oem" tool, they have failed me and destroyed my balljoint by compressing or bending the threads on the balljoint because it put too much pressure before it ever popped off. everyone has their favorite way, but i still advocate just banging on it with a 3lb hammer.
03-03-2006, 05:33 AM
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Re: (got_no_sol)
ok i done it. I was going to try the 1/2 ratchet between the lca and ball joint but i was kind of against that because it might damage my tools and **** so i was like whatever i'll try the 2 jaw puller so i did that and i did it. well it didnt take 15 secs, took me like 2 minutes because that was the first time i ever used it but none the less i got it out. now all i have to replace is the upper control arm on my passenger side. this should be way way easier.
05-24-2006, 06:09 AM
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Re: ...ball joint question - hit it with heat
If you get a jack under there, and then hit the 'joint' side of the balljoint with a torch, it will pop off in about 10 seconds. This was with a propane torch. All it takes is a bit of expansion and there is enough clearance. You are not even getting the grease hot.
05-24-2006, 08:22 AM
#20
Re: ...ball joint question (Tyson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> do NOT hit the balljoint upwards. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you mean putting the castle nut on and hitting straight up to get it out? If so why is that bad?
Ive always used the method in this link ( https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859 ) but im just curious.
Do you mean putting the castle nut on and hitting straight up to get it out? If so why is that bad?
Ive always used the method in this link ( https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859 ) but im just curious.
05-24-2006, 08:33 AM
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Re: ...ball joint question (TurboEM1)
how is that NOT bad????
youre goign to fu ck up the threads and totally ruin the balljoint if you put any impact on the threads, nut or not.
youre goign to fu ck up the threads and totally ruin the balljoint if you put any impact on the threads, nut or not.
05-24-2006, 10:49 AM
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Re: ...ball joint question (Tyson)
Hitting the sides of the LCA as well as putting the castle nut on upside down(so the nut and threads dont get damaged.)
Then hit the bottom of the ball joint and it will come out eventually. I have done this about 4/5 time in the past year and have not damaged the ball joint or the threads. It has always worked for me.
Then hit the bottom of the ball joint and it will come out eventually. I have done this about 4/5 time in the past year and have not damaged the ball joint or the threads. It has always worked for me.
05-24-2006, 10:50 AM
#23
Re: ...ball joint question (Tyson)
I saw that some people are worried about the 1/2" rachet method damaging their tools. I can say that it deffinently will not harm you tools in any way. It is so easy to do that I can feel my blood-pressure rise when people repeatedly say they are still having a hard time with their lower-balljoints.
BTW: Your tools are forged steel. Your suspenison arms & knuckles are cast steel. Which of those do you think will get a mark from the process? Your tools will be fine, and the balljoint & boot don't even get touched, so there is no worry about damage. I've used this method about 20 times...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you mean putting the castle nut on and hitting straight up to get it out? If so why is that bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats a big no-no. I had to learn the hard way. Once the stud gets mushroomed from the impacts, the castle nut won't go back on all the way. I had to replace my balljoints & castle nuts, and I had to brave a 15mph drive in that condition to my mechanic...
BTW: Your tools are forged steel. Your suspenison arms & knuckles are cast steel. Which of those do you think will get a mark from the process? Your tools will be fine, and the balljoint & boot don't even get touched, so there is no worry about damage. I've used this method about 20 times...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you mean putting the castle nut on and hitting straight up to get it out? If so why is that bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats a big no-no. I had to learn the hard way. Once the stud gets mushroomed from the impacts, the castle nut won't go back on all the way. I had to replace my balljoints & castle nuts, and I had to brave a 15mph drive in that condition to my mechanic...
05-26-2006, 03:57 AM
#24
Senior Member
The 1/2 rachet is perfect. Craftsman rachets fit in there like a glove. this meathod has never failed me at all. ive pulled it off a good 40 times.. takes me 30 seconds max to do it.
05-26-2006, 02:40 PM
#25
Honda-Tech Member
Re: ...ball joint question (rice a roni)
sometimes the force will slice into the boot.. I have all my ball joints and tie rod ends on life time warrenty from autozone so i just replace them every time i destroy one.