Tyson

i replaced a wheel bearing this weekend. you need to take off the knuckle and in order to take off the knuckle you need to separate the 3 balljoints.

so i took a video.

i used my favorite method, 3lb sledge hammer. youll see how easy it is on a tie rod end. its the same with the lower and upper balljoint.

http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson...1.wmv

then i got to use the official honda balljoint separater tool. it was easy too. i would prefer it over the hammer method, EXCEPT its kind of expensive. in all, i think its just easier to just have a 3lb hammer available to pop off a balljoint.

http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson...2.wmv

feel free to host it on youtube or distribute wherever. i dont care.

dr_latino999

Going to put some **** music on the videos and then hosting them Otherwise, this was just the information I was looking for my brake swap coming up.

Smokinsax

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> this was just the information I was looking for my brake swap coming up.</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah...same situation here except going to do the big four lug swap.

good info!

ED9man

P/N for the honda tool?

n3h3bkau

Here's my solution...

Fuster_Cluck

Great info / vids

Ti Rider

Easiest method on the face of the Earth for popping the lower balljoint - https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1. On an EF you don't even need the jack, just pull the control arm down and put the wrench in between the knuckle an arm. Requires no special tools, doesn't even touch the ball joint so it doesn't damage it all.

Tippyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ti Rider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easiest method on the face of the Earth for popping the lower balljoint - https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1. On an EF you don't even need the jack, just pull the control arm down and put the wrench in between the knuckle an arm. Requires no special tools, doesn't even touch the ball joint so it doesn't damage it all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I do everytime. I use a 22 mm wrench I have laying around. Peice of cake.

I don't see why people ever have trouble with it.

wiZCo

Great info. Subscribed!

rarejdmkid

good info!

Jonathan_ED3

The sledgehammer method doesn't work too well for the lower ball joint. At least it never has for me. There's too many things in the way, space is too tight. There's no good angle to strike it from.

Now I've seen guys with lifts in the shop use the hammer method, but they're able to stand up and get a good angle and take good swings.

On the ground in my driveway, it's never worked.

I use the ball joint seperator (pitman arm puller, not pickle-fork) almost all of the time as a result.

Great videos Tyson!





Modified by Jonathan_ED3 at 11:27 PM 3/5/2007

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ti Rider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easiest method on the face of the Earth for popping the lower balljoint - https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1. On an EF you don't even need the jack, just pull the control arm down and put the wrench in between the knuckle an arm. Requires no special tools, doesn't even touch the ball joint so it doesn't damage it all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's what I do everytime. I use a 22 mm wrench I have laying around. Peice of cake.

I don't see why people ever have trouble with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it's so great, then please explain how you would you get the entire knuckle off with that method? It only works on the LOWER ball-joint.

fireant

Good videos and good thread idea, I've got two more ways to try that wont hurt the boot:

1.) Use a "Pittman arm puller" from an autoparts store. Mine was $7.99, works great. Some places might loan them out too.

And if a puller is not available:

2.) Take off the castle nut, turn it over and screw it back on a little ways to where its flat edge is even with the flat base of the stud. Whack it upwards with the hammer from below, using a piece of wood to cushion the nut and stud from being damaged.

Jonathan_ED3

fireant,

I've found that even with the pitman arm puller, it's best for me to turn the castle nut upside down and thread it back onto the joint.

In my experience it seems to preserve the threads better than leaving it right-side-up.

Have you had similar results?

civictrix

good vids, and great info. Now what about when u try to take the castle nut off and the whole ball joint just spins

*Boostwerks*

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civictrix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good vids, and great info. Now what about when u try to take the castle nut off and the whole ball joint just spins </TD></TR></TABLE>

I Had that problem. Try clamping the U/LCA down to the knuckle to put more force onto the ball joint (I used vise grips). That should keep it from spinning and allow you to take the nut off. If not... it's time to take the cutting wheel to the grinder...and then the grinder to the nut.

Or just do a DA brake swap with new UCA's.

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civictrix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now what about when u try to take the castle nut off and the whole ball joint just spins </TD></TR></TABLE>

use an impact wrench.

then rethread the nut with a tap.

civictrix

I was using an impact wrench, lol. The ball joint is completely shot, I will probably end up cutting it off.

*Boostwerks*

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civictrix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was using an impact wrench, lol. The ball joint is completely shot, I will probably end up cutting it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try clamping it down first...

fireant

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fireant,

In my experience it seems to preserve the threads better than leaving it right-side-up.

Have you had similar results?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, even with the pittman puller I flipped the bolt too, just to avoid any potential damage to the threads. And it helps prevent it from jumping out too.

redefsir

put pressure under the balljoint you want to seperate with a jack. it should stop spinning

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civictrix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good vids, and great info. Now what about when u try to take the castle nut off and the whole ball joint just spins </TD></TR></TABLE>

Try cutting a flat-head screwdriver notch in the end of the stud with a dremmel (before you hack the whole thing up). Hold the stud with the screwdriver, and take the nut off with a wrench. Once you get it off, it's best to chase the stud threads with a die if this is where the problem threads are. If the problem threads are in the nut, just replace it...

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redefsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put pressure under the balljoint you want to seperate with a jack. it should stop spinning</TD></TR></TABLE>

You want to put the jack under the LCA to support it. Then have a friend press downward on the rotor. This creates added pressure between the LCA and the stud to help keep it from spinning. I've gone as far as installing the wheel and standing on the lip of the rim for extra pressure. If your wheel doesn't have a lip, stand atop the tire. Just be careful as the wheel can spin & your friend will quickly hit the floor...

Tyson

i dont see what the problem would be. theres plenty of space to bang on it from either side. it does help alternating sides too in order to jiggle it out.

its all about introducing dynamic vibrations. the taper in the design squeezes the balljoint and WANTS to force it out. it just needs to be released with the right vibration.

chansta

thanks for the vids.