I did this awhile ago and have had no regrets. I originally threw a code, im guessing it maybe had something to do with the power steering pressure switch but never actually checked it because it went away. I used the line loop method and have had no problems with the rack. From what it seems it has been said to " loop the lines and fill them with fluid to lube the seals in the rack". However if you were to block off those holes with caps (basically just to keep out dirt) and make sure mostly all the fluid is out of there, would it damage anything ? Because is that section of the rack even needed anymore ? Or do you still need that lubrication in there ? I have been told otherwise by some people that is why I ask, I always thought that you needed to atleast of it looped or do the manual rack conversion.

 

If you had taken a second to read the manual conversion writeup, you'd have seen that you must lubricate the inside of the rack well. Use synthetic grease and try get out as much of the PS fluid as you can.

 

If you don't use any lube, the piston o-ring will cause a bit of drag. Best thing to do is to disassemble the rack, remove the piston o-ring, then use some high pressure grease on everything to keep the rack operating smoothly. That's what I did 3 years ago, and no problems have shown up yet.

 

i used some fittings from home depot and a spare clutch master cylinder resevoir




the middle is the ps

 

i have read it many times. I just was told this by SOMEONE ELSE and wanted some reassurance that I was right about the whole matter.

 

Yeah, I don't think you would want a dry rack for long. If you drain the fluid and cover the holes you will have a little fluid, but I would think it would start to settle to the bottom before too long and then your rack would start to wear. Either keep enough fluid in there with a breather or take it apart and grease it up.