I'm working on running the 2 lines to the block. When looking at the IM side of the engine, there are those 14mm alan wrench plugs. The driver's side one is accessible, the passenger side one is behind a black oil return cannister. First off, aren't those plugs for coolant in the block? I'm guessing not, but even if they have oil on the other side, how do you access the one behind the black return cannister?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GI8U2racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm working on running the 2 lines to the block. When looking at the IM side of the engine, there are those 14mm alan wrench plugs. The driver's side one is accessible, the passenger side one is behind a black oil return cannister. First off, aren't those plugs for coolant in the block? I'm guessing not, but even if they have oil on the other side, how do you access the one behind the black return cannister?</TD></TR></TABLE>

pull out the hose from the top of the black box, undo the 12mm bolt on the bottom of the bracket coming off it, and then pull the box out.

if you have an intake manifold brace though, you will need to remove it first. I believe that it has 2 12mm bolts under the intake manifold, 2 12mm bolts that hold it to the block, and 1 12mm that holds it to the back of the black breather box.

and yes, it is oil behind those plugs, not coolant


Modified by WrongWD at 2:53 PM 11/18/2007

 

I never had the IM brace on, and have no charcoal cannister, so that wont be an issue. What goes in place of the holes in the block that the black box connected?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GI8U2racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never had the IM brace on, and have no charcoal cannister, so that wont be an issue. What goes in place of the holes in the block that the black box connected?</TD></TR></TABLE>

whoops, i meant the black breather box, not charcoal canister.

if you're leaving the black breather box off, you will need a block plug. Z10 Engineering makes one, as does B&R. search for block plug and you should find them

check out https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1199935 for more info

 

i just installed it on my b18c, didn't really feel much of a difference. did you feel any improvement?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by an2ny888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just installed it on my b18c, didn't really feel much of a difference. did you feel any improvement?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what sort of improvement were you looking for? this is more for the health of your engine than for power

 

Venting the back of the block from where those two 14mm hex head plugs are is a bad idea. It's a plan to have oil spraying all over your engine compartment. Do a search about this problem and you will see how many people have had trouble with this. Thousands of threads.

If you look at a block on the bench you will see that there is a ton of oil draining down from the head in those drain galleys that will come out into any hoses you attach there due to crankcase pressure you are trying to vent. That is why Honda did not vent from those machining access holes. Just leave the OEM black breather can in place because it is baffled to prevent much oil from coming out of the top, and connect the hole at the top to the side of your Endyn can.

The Z10 guys who make a similar kit tell you not to vent from the alternator side galley because it is completely open to all the engine oil sloshing off the crank on top of the oil draining from the head. They say the only reason they sell two ports is because people want them since the Endyn setup has them. If you are running on the track, keep the baffled OEM can and do not vent off those block plugs. On th track engine is always in VTEC and there is a ton of oil up there which is constantly draining back just beside those block plugs.

 

I was always wondering this to since alot of people have complained about the Endyne catch can. Plus, all the setups I have seen are for drag racing applications. So what's the best way to connect a catch can to a track car? Should a line be attached from the PCV to the catch can? Also should there be a secondary line going from the valve cover to the catch can?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by descartesfool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Venting the back of the block from where those two 14mm hex head plugs are is a bad idea. It's a plan to have oil spraying all over your engine compartment. Do a search about this problem and you will see how many people have had trouble with this. Thousands of threads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you show me a few, I don't know what to search for

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by descartesfool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you look at a block on the bench you will see that there is a ton of oil draining down from the head in those drain galleys that will come out into any hoses you attach there due to crankcase pressure you are trying to vent. That is why Honda did not vent from those machining access holes. Just leave the OEM black breather can in place because it is baffled to prevent much oil from coming out of the top, and connect the hole at the top to the side of your Endyn can.

The Z10 guys who make a similar kit tell you not to vent from the alternator side galley because it is completely open to all the engine oil sloshing off the crank on top of the oil draining from the head. They say the only reason they sell two ports is because people want them since the Endyn setup has them. If you are running on the track, keep the baffled OEM can and do not vent off those block plugs. On th track engine is always in VTEC and there is a ton of oil up there which is constantly draining back just beside those block plugs. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Then why do so many guys on track run this setup? Are they modifying the configuration and I just didn't notice? I see what you're saying, but The Old One is a smart guy as well. Does your recommended system use PCV and the valve cover breather? I am quite ocnfused on your recommendation.

 

thats why the endyn set up have a drain back.
the fittings endyn used are oem ones but he put a copper sleeve i i think inside the hole so it keeps some of the oil out.
i tracked my car for well over an hour i didnt notice any problems

 

i really dont know what the instructions read. forever that guy's handwritten sketch of how a catch can should work with the stock breather setup has confused countless ppl here on honda tech, and i think he's wrong. the sketch describes a closed loop system with the catch can inbetween the intake manifold and the PCV valve. its pointless because the point of the catch can is to prevent any oily vapor from entering the combustion track for a cleaner engine and cleaner combustion air. which is NOT the point of the stock system, as the point of the stock system sacrifices a clean engine and clean combustion air for less air pollutants.

a catch can setup should just dump either both or just one of the two breather inlets/outlets into the catch can and vent to air. namely the valve cover breather and the PCV valve. and plug up the intake arm and the intake manifold.

now he comes out with a VENTED catch can system. whatever.

just route the outlet of the PCV valve to one of the top barb fittings. then the valve cover nipple to the other barbe fitting. plug up the left over holes and thats it.

on second thought, sicne he didnt put a valve on the bottom barb fitting, it looks like youre forced to route an automatic drain back with that T fitting. personally, id take it off and put a small petcock valve on. another senseless design from TOO....

better yet, just use a damn 1qt oil bottle and zip tie it to the firewall like every one else who has a race car does. choose one with a clear strip on the side to check fluid level and youl be better off than that piece of crap up there.

 

One of many samples: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1581710

Just see how many people say it happens to them in that one thread for example. When I called Endyn, Larry said that only happens when the drain back hose has been installed without it going down all the way. Mine was installed perfectly from the get-go and I had the engine oil spraying out of the can's filter first day on the track. I looked inside a spare block I had dis-assembled and decided the whole Endyn concept was a bad idea. One should only have a hole from the block or head that is first baffled inside to reduce oil coming out suspended in blow-by gases. That is how Honda does it in the valve cover and with the black breather box. My dyno tuner confirmed my hypothesis and said to leave the breather box on and vent out the top of it to a catch can, as posted above. I actually added two ports to my OEM can's top to connect to the Endyn can's side ports and I have another can for the valve cover, but there is never any oil in it. This is for road race track use. Endyn set-up might work fine for some people on a road race track, but it didn't for me, and I am certain excessive blow-by is not the issue, as my block and pistons are stock and never opened. The issue is the ton of oil coming back down in those oil galleys where the Endyn ports go when at full load and RPM. I can't see the logic of it. I think OEM breather box idea is much better, and it works.

 

i have the stock black box with no psv going to a catch can. also have the valve cover going to a catch can. over one season i got maybe an inch in the bottom of the can. and its some nasty stuff. nothing i'd want to drain back into my engine.

 

Is it even worth it running a breather on a catch can? Im not sure about venting that stuff into the atmosphere.

 

Well I got it all installed like it should be. How should I move lines around to make use of the cannister at least? I hung on to the black box still luckily

 

I am torn to pay and install Emdyn catch can or na fittings on top front of valve cover. So many mixed opinions.

 

i got both lol



only down side that i notice is you tend to smell oil vapors sometimes when you at a stop light but theres really nothing you can do about that its venting out.

 

What I found to work is to leave the oil separator box installed. Leave the box installed, just take the like that goes to the pvc and reroute it to a vented catch can (I removed the pvc valve). Also take the line from the valve cover and run it to the vented catch can too. You do not want any of the vapors to go back into the intake. I would not remove the galley plugs.

Here is a link to another thread (with pictures) on how I did mine.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...94423

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hayabusa160 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got both lol



only down side that i notice is you tend to smell oil vapors sometimes when you at a stop light but theres really nothing you can do about that its venting out.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What kind of radiator overflow can is that? I need to do something better that what I have.

 

Geez, can someone intelligent just come out and say how this should be done? All these configurations have me so confused on what to do...lol

 

Jonathan, I am not going to go with the Endyn kit. I am going to weld to fittings n the top front of the valve cover and vent the oem nipple to the can and remove the pvc on the IM and vent that to a can also. I will let you know how this does one on track agian in a few months.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GBRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What kind of radiator overflow can is that? I need to do something better that what I have.</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.jmfabrications.com/

i got it there i saw some of his work first hand on my friends dsm and i was very impressed with it so i got one.

 

What is the purpose of the nipples on the front of the valve cover?