First start of freshly built motor
First some background on the setup.
This is a B18B, that I have been building for several months now. I'm running a worked head with crower titanium retainers, dual springs and 404's. Bottom end is JE forged 11.5:1 82mm pistons on Eagle H beams. Rotating assembly balanced etc...I'll be running RC 310cc injectors once I get it tuned but...
I have been told that I can start it and it will run on the stock LS map. I was told it will just run rich at idle. Is this true if I run the stock injectors?
This is a B18B, that I have been building for several months now. I'm running a worked head with crower titanium retainers, dual springs and 404's. Bottom end is JE forged 11.5:1 82mm pistons on Eagle H beams. Rotating assembly balanced etc...I'll be running RC 310cc injectors once I get it tuned but...
I have been told that I can start it and it will run on the stock LS map. I was told it will just run rich at idle. Is this true if I run the stock injectors?
a little lean is ok, rich isnt a good thing. your rings and hone are very sensitve to ******* up on initial start up.
you should start it up, can probably run on stock map if using stock injectors. make sure to crank the ******* crap out of the motor with the plugs disconnected and fuel linjectors not hooked up. this will build oil pressure in the motor. literally do it for a solid minute. then hook that back up and turn it on. do a quick check and make sure you arent leaking anything, then hold the revs in the 2000-3000 range until the motor heats up and the fan cycles. probably 10-20 min. can also be done with rad cap off to help blleed coolant system. then turn it off, change the oil.
once its cool and u have new oil and no leaks you can drive it around. put increasing load on the motor and be sure to engine brake
you should start it up, can probably run on stock map if using stock injectors. make sure to crank the ******* crap out of the motor with the plugs disconnected and fuel linjectors not hooked up. this will build oil pressure in the motor. literally do it for a solid minute. then hook that back up and turn it on. do a quick check and make sure you arent leaking anything, then hold the revs in the 2000-3000 range until the motor heats up and the fan cycles. probably 10-20 min. can also be done with rad cap off to help blleed coolant system. then turn it off, change the oil.
once its cool and u have new oil and no leaks you can drive it around. put increasing load on the motor and be sure to engine brake
oh yea, with that higheer compression, make sure u hit the motor with a timing gun before you start to load it up. i woudlnt go wide open or real high rpms without tuning though, considering your cams and compression
Thanks guys. Yea, I started it up a hour or so ago. I did prime the oil pump a good bit before actually starting also. I had a couple leaks, but it was dumb stuff that I forgot to connect while putting it together. (ie. breather box line and a small coolant line) It has a VERY lopey idle and with the 8lb flywheel doesnt want to idle much below 1100rpm. Very little smoke on startup, then none. I didnt let it warm up though, because it got dark outside, and I have a few things left to do before the car is ready to take for a spin. Tomorrow should be the day to take it for a test drive.
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