i've got an 89 crx si, dohc zc swap and im using an electric oil pressure gauge....the gauge came with its own sending unit to install in place of the original, however it didnt clear the oil filter so i had to create some pluming to make it work...long story short it wasnt a very good idea as the plumbing failed catastrophically and i now have a severe oil leak ....my question is does anyone know if i can wire up my aftermarket gauge to my stock sending unit as it is also electronic? would it use the same voltage to pressure reference? i.e. 10 psi=1v for instance?? i dont want to use anymore outrageous plumbing like i did before because i can only see failure in the long run
the gauge is a Faze if that helps...i couldnt afford an autometer damned low budget

 

I doubt it will work, but it's hard to say. You need to know the scale of both the gauge sender and the Honda sender.

What did you use for the plumbing?
Believe it or not there are kits made by various gauge manufacturers to run two senders from one port. Most often these are a braided stainless hose that runs to a "T" that both senders can attach to.

 

I doubt that it would work as well. there was a write up on one forum where someone used a copper fitting with a plastic line like the manual gauge and put a t fitting and strapped it to the firewall to prevent those huge oil sending units messing up the back of the block. dont know if you can still do that or if its too messed up. I can try and find that post and put a link.

 

well, i dont have any oil pressure signal to my ecu and im not worried about that, the dummy light doesnt come on until its too late most of the time anyway, and the cel never came on and neither ecu i've used had thrown a code for oil psi yet (i had a pm6, now running a pg7) and i drove the car for 3 weeks before the plumbing broke.....

i seriously doubted that it would work myself, but i was curious so thats why i asked...

i used some brass threaded piping from the block to the aftermarket sender and the weight of the sender plus vibration caused the brass pieces to break....i guess i could just eliminate using my gauge for now and run the stock sending unit to fix the oil leak problem, but i'd hate to do that and not have an accurate readout of oil pressure...my a6 spun a rod bearing and bent the rod all to hell and gouged the bottom of the sleeve on #3......thanks mom!!!!! later found out the oil pump was way out of clearance specs...... i dont think it would have happened if she knew the oil pressure was dropping or was non existent (my mom knows her **** believe it or not) and since im not the only person that drives the car, i'd like for there to be a readout at the gauage, but i guess beggars cant be choosers right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondasaurusrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the cel never came on and neither ecu i've used had thrown a code for oil psi yet (i had a pm6, now running a pg7)</TD></TR></TABLE>the ECU doesn't read oil pressure - you wouldn't get a CEL due to low or no oil pressure and there is no code for it

 

I would look at something like this. http://store.summitracing.com/...46127

I am going to use one of those on my race car(not a Honda) as the block won't allow the sender to fit.

It sounds to me since you are sharing the car reliability is the biggest concern, I'd keep that in mind when fabbing up stuff

 

just make sure to use a braided steel line - the copper or nylon lines will break in a short amount of time

 

for the time being im just going to have to forget about my gauge and keep my mom out of it! lol i dont have to drive far or under hard conditions by any means and im confident in the engines reliability for dd purpouses, so until i can get enough money and the right materials to fab something correctly im just going to throw the stock sender in so i have wheels and no oil leak

 

when you do do it right, you need a foot or so of braided line with 1/8 npt on both sides and a T block tied the firewall for your stock sensor and your new sensor. and a bsp to npt fitting for the block

 

I don't know the specific answer to your question, but most likely it would give you a workable reading, but I doubt it would be calibrated to match exactly, as far as readout.

What you might consider trying would be to get a brass t adapter, with as short a pipe fitting as you can get, to put into the block. What I'm suggesting is to use the bottom of the t fitting, for the pipe adapter. That way you can put the sensors on each end of the T. If this would allow them to fit, it would probably work fine and eliminate the breakage problem you've had.

Structurally, the problem you've had is caused by the distance from the block to the sensor. Basically the farther away from the block is, the more it put's toque on the tube you purchased.

Another possibility, but you would want to keep it as short as possible, would be to use a piece of steel pipe, instead of the brass. If you do, you should keep the piece of pipe as short as you can possibly make it, so it doesn't have the same problem it did, previously.