i tried wet sanding a small spot on my cf hood with 1200 grit, but it came out dull and was scratched up.

my goal is to wet sand the oxidation out of the clear coat and re-clear it. am i on the right track, should it be dull and just need to be polished and buffed out instead of re-cleared? i am afraid that if i spray clear coat onto the old, dull coat, it would look like crap. please help me out, thanks a lot.

 

You can block the whole hood with 1000 grit and then clear it will turn out fine.If you would like to see what it will look like while you are still sanding it just add water to the hood that will show you.You will need to clean the hood really good before you spray the clear so as to not trap anything below the clear.

 

yeah you need to wetsand, you can reclear but make sure you clean up all the contaminants, then do it, or just buff with some compound wax or polish.

 

so 1000 grit is fine or is it ok if i go higher like 1200 or 2000. and to make sure: re-clearing over the dullness created by the sanding will come out fine.

or if i buff the dullness created by the sanding with wax or polish, will the look be permanent or will it fade back to dull after a short period of time.

and would it be possible to wetsand the final clearcoat with ____grit to remove the orange peel and make it smooth, or would that be unnecessary.

thanks a lot for your replies.

 

You can block it with 600 wet if you like and reclear.....Anything over 1000 grit is fine.....I would just put 2-3 good wet coats of clear on and call it a day

 

no stay under 1000 grit, anything above that will not provide enough ahesion. and i would go for reclear over wetsanding and buffing what you have now. fresh clearcoat will be a lot easier to buff than your carbon fiber.

 

ok cool thanks a lot for all the input. one final thing, can you answer and explain:
would it be possible to wetsand the final clearcoat with ____grit to remove the orange peel and make it smooth, or would that be unnecessary? thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_Du_Ma_Mai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok cool thanks a lot for all the input. one final thing, can you answer and explain:
would it be possible to wetsand the final clearcoat with ____grit to remove the orange peel and make it smooth, or would that be unnecessary? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, you could do that as well. Wet sand it with 1500 then follow with 2000 and buff it. Should look great!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pockets &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no stay under 1000 grit, anything above that will not provide enough ahesion. and i would go for reclear over wetsanding and buffing what you have now. fresh clearcoat will be a lot easier to buff than your carbon fiber.</TD></TR></TABLE>So you are saying that if you sand something with 1000grit the clear will not adhear to the panel....Cause if this is what you are saying you would be wrong

 

no i did not say 1000 is too fine, anything OVER 1000 is not going to be safe.

 

true.. over one thousand wont really leave enough sand scratches for the clear to mechanically bond to the surface... same concept when you block primer before you get ready to spray base... you need a mechanical (sand scratches) and a checmical bond for best adhesion

 

I don't know how bad you messed it up, but buffing it with the right compound after wetsanding it will bring back a shiney finish and you shouldn't have to re-clear the hood by any means.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GuNnErGoD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know how bad you messed it up, but buffing it with the right compound after wetsanding it will bring back a shiney finish and you shouldn't have to re-clear the hood by any means.</TD></TR></TABLE>

YES, just buff it out and don't burn through.

 

Of course buffing and polishing, waxing will make it shiny again. It will only be a matter of time before the oxidation comes back. Instead you could spend that time re-clearing the part to provide UV protection and fix the problem.

 

Try re-clearing it and see what happens. When you're done, refer to my previous post.

 

I'm working on my IS300 carbon fiber hood, and the 600 grit I was using wasn't getting any cles coat off. I'm wondering if I should use my orbit sander and get the clear coat down to get ready to clear coat her.
QUOTE=VTEC_Du_Ma_Mai;30714459]i tried wet sanding a small spot on my cf hood with 1200 grit, but it came out dull and was scratched up.

my goal is to wet sand the oxidation out of the clear coat and re-clear it. am i on the right track, should it be dull and just need to be polished and buffed out instead of re-cleared? i am afraid that if i spray clear coat onto the old, dull coat, it would look like crap. please help me out, thanks a lot.[/QUOTE]