Well my caR is going in to have the engine rebuilt here very soon, I can't take it anymore, the car feels so sluggish, I'm tired of cleaning black soot off the back of my car every day, and I'm just over it. I'm just going to drop the dime right now to have it back to perfect shape.

Here's the deal. I can't afford to buy cams/cam gears right now on top of the other rebuild components (Gaskets, pistons, rings, seals, it's not cheap), but I can, however, afford to buy the Skunk2 titanium retainers and valvesprings.

I would like to do this, because when I can afford the cams/gears, it's just a matter of throwing them in, dialing them in, and towing it to the dyno.

But will I run into issues running stock cams on Skunk2 valvetrain? I remember hearing somewhere this isn't a good idea, but I'm just verifying before I start buying parts.

Thanks in advance.

 

Do yourself a BIG favor, just procure a Toda valve spring set and leave the OEM tainers in place. The afore mentioned setup will handle ANY cam package (lift/duration wise) in the future.

Your good for 800+hp and 10K rpm's


trust me....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do yourself a BIG favor, just procure a Toda valve spring set and leave the OEM tainers in place. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Exactly my set-up.

 

hes all taken care of

 

Appreciate the input guys.

I've got everything lined up now.

 

yeah i had a setup like that, was recommended by Mike Laskey, blue R

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do yourself a BIG favor, just procure a Toda valve spring set and leave the OEM tainers in place. The afore mentioned setup will handle ANY cam package (lift/duration wise) in the future.

Your good for 800+hp and 10K rpm's


trust me....


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let's say you mate what you mentioned above with the Spec B cams, can our OEM Valves handle that or would they need to be upgraded too?

 

OEM Type-R valves are great. I won't ever have my engine to the point of upgrading them. I'll replace them with this rebuild, then they'll probably stay in there for the duration of the car's life.

 

Nice, good to know for future reference

 

Remember: OEM valves bend, aftermarket valves shatter... A bent valve will do a LOT less damage than a shattered valve.

I believe there are some brand of aftermarket valves that do not shatter, I cannot remember which though.

I haven't researched this stuff in a while.

 

Does Toda make valves, I don't remember ever seeing any? Haven't looked in a while though

 

There he goes again...

Putting out a deal and talking the talk to us ITR owners making us spend all our hard earned money!!!

BlueR FTW!!!

 

Just checked their site and they aren't listed so I guess not

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There he goes again...

Putting out a deal and talking the talk to us ITR owners making us spend all our hard earned money!!!

BlueR FTW!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well at least they're good deal.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jgirard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does Toda make valves, I don't remember ever seeing any? Haven't looked in a while though</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nah, they don't.

 

FWIW, some of the best tuners out there will say to keep stock valves even on 600+WHP turbo builds.

OEM FTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OEM Type R FTW </TD></TR></TABLE>

Fixed

 

crower is good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeRSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crower is good </TD></TR></TABLE>
You're not...

 

Hi,

Passing thought. The stock valve train can handle some medium lift cams such as Jun II's. If going with much zippier cams you can lose effective compression. As a result it is possible to have less power unless compression is raised.

Zippier cams can also raise and narrow the power band potentially making the car a pain to drive unless redline is raised and gearing changed.

Just be careful with the cams. Geez, now I feel like a real downer........

John

 

JDM P30 pistons, Skunk2 Pro-Is... 11.4:1CR will be great with Pro-Is.

 

Let's say you mate what you mentioned above with the Spec B cams, can our OEM Valves handle that or would they need to be upgraded too?


I ran B's for over 15k miles on my race car with stock valves then switched to C's.......zero issues.

P.S. have built a few with said setup, zero issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do yourself a BIG favor, just procure a Toda valve spring set and leave the OEM tainers in place. The afore mentioned setup will handle ANY cam package (lift/duration wise) in the future.

Your good for 800+hp and 10K rpm's


trust me....


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup thats what I did for my Spec C's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JjuuN R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're not...</TD></TR></TABLE> ewah