i did a search and found some good info and some good pics. i wish i had thought of it earlier and i would have done a complete how to on this subject. but instead i can only offer you the few pics i have and the very limitied knowlege sicne this was my first wire tuck.

the victim: 95 honda civic cx hatch

i started on the passenger side by removing the battery and the battery tray. the tray was held on by 2 12mm bolts. then i unplugged the head lights, and corner lights. you will also need to disconnect the rad fan and whatever a/c stuff you have. my car did not have a/c stuff becuase it was removed a year ago and the motor/fan and all that stuff is not in the car. after you have it all unplugged youw ill need to unbolt the white connector (relay?) on the side wall behind the headlight. you cant miss it its white and has black wires coming out of it. a 10mm bolt holds it on. now just follow the wires back removing all the plastic clips that hold the wiring on the car.

next remove your fuse box. a couple 10mm bolts and its lose then you just unplug everything from the bottom. you should now be able to force it all through teh firewall. (this is where having the dash removed makes it real easy!)

remove your fender now. 3 or 4 10mm bolts across the top, one up top behind the door hinge, one behine the lower door hinge, one behind the side skirt, and one under the headlight. now thsi is where i notice ppl doing this different. i will post pics tehn describe what i did.



where the wires come through to the door i ran my wires for the lights and such. some ppl do this differently from what i have seen but this seemed the easiest to me so i went for it.



here is what the passenger side looked like in the first stages of this. in this pic i have all the wires for the lights and the fuse box out of the engine bay and into the passenger compartment.



next i mounted the fuse box. i just found a bolt hole and threaded a 10mm bolt in there and it holds the fuse box under the dash (or at least where the dash will eventually go. you can also see kinda where i ran the wires through to the door. and how i ran the rest of the harness to the hole where the heater core used to exit.



next i cleaned up the wiring a bit and got it tied up where i wanted it. i did nto have to lengthen anything on the passenger side like this. it is all plugged up to the lights in this pic and the plug for the radiator is gonna reach also. i cannot say weather the a/c stuff, if there is any, or the horn plug will work with this method.



on the driver side i pretty much followed the same procedure. the only prob i have encountered is the plugs on the shock tower that plug up to the engine harness. after they go into the car they go to a plug junction and without removing alot of stuff i dont see how im gonna get it to reach the heater core hole where the others are exiting. unless i can figure it out im gonna run it under the brake booster and all that stuff and hopefully its not noticeable!



here is the driver side. it still has my profec boost solenoid mounted and all that vaccum line. that stuff is gone now though.



here is where it should all exit out of when im done.. its low and behind the motor so it should be out of site. you will also notice the charcoal canister is gone. im gonna route that line out of the engine bay and it will exit under the car somewhere. its just a vent for the fuel system and this car is gonna be a race car so i dont see why it matters for me to have it. the tank can still vent and i get rid of the ugly canister..its a win-win situation!



i must warn you..its an ugly situation under that dash so be prepared!

if anyone has anything at all to add please do so. im by no means a professional and i dont claim to be an expert ont his subject matter. im not looking to get flamed but i am looking to help ppl that are trying this project to there car.

he is a very helpful link i found while searching. this link should be a sticky on some forum if it is not already. it has alot of info on anything engine bay related.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1693934

after i get more done i will post more pics. like i said if you have any info at all that can be helpful please post it as i am learning as i go with this.

enjoy!

 

I know I'm bumping a super old thread but I thought it was helpful information. Thanks alot.

 

DIY

 

glad it helped at least one person. there is a bunch of info but alot questions remain un answered and just have to be figured out. if you guys have any questions feel free to pm me and i will do my best to answer or at least try to help out.

 

so what is the progress on the car?

 

this should be left to the shaved tuck thread....there doesn't need to be another thread on this unless its your build up

 

i see the h-t police got me!!!! the progress has stopped...im buying a house. but after i get the house im back to it. i got a laskey racing longblock, peakboost kit with a fullrace t3/t67ho..just sitting here waiting for more money to finish it up.

if having one more tuck thread is un-needed then delete this one. i dont care what you do with it. i put it here to help ppl but if you guys want it gone then delete it. thats what i get for trying to help i guess

 

thanks alot for sharing how you did your wire tuck.
and as for HT you know everyone's always got crap to say. good luck on your project.

 

any more updates

 

does it make it tougher to pull the motor when you've done a wire tuck? It seems like the option of just unpluggin the motor harness at the shock towers and leaving the harness attached to the motor is gone. So u have to unplug all the sensors and leave the harness in the car when pulling the motor?

 

i didn't run my wires on the outside of the frame rail. i unpinned all the wires and ran them inside of it to protect them. when i pulled out the wires from the frame rail i then pinned all the wires back into the connectors. if you get in an accident it can pinch/expose the wires and may result in a fire.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by type Gendy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does it make it tougher to pull the motor when you've done a wire tuck? It seems like the option of just unpluggin the motor harness at the shock towers and leaving the harness attached to the motor is gone. So u have to unplug all the sensors and leave the harness in the car when pulling the motor? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i ran my harness connections down the back of the motor and inside the cabin. thats where it connects. if i ever have to take it out its easy.

 

i totally understand what you are saying about the wreck deal..but it can happen either way. and i dont have any mroe updates i sold the car and bought a house