renzis00

1999 Honda Civic EX M/T
I bought this car without taking a good look and no knowledgeable mechanic friend.
Dint ask for any history but it was salvaged.
there is constant battery draw.


Tests Done:::::::::Test Result


1. Negative Cable out of terminal post, clipped black wire of DVOM set to DC Volts;Red wire clipped to negative battery terminal post.::::::::::::::::: Constant Draw.

2. Pulled and Check all fuses(Underhood and Dash)::::::::::::Underhood Fuse #51 and #47 dropped the Current.

3. Battery Taken out, Pulled out all Connector from Under the Under-Hood Fuse Box, Under-Dash FB, Connected Red Wire from each wires of the connectors, Black Wire to Ground, Set to Continuity::::::::::::::::most had continuity except ofcourse the ground wire from the connectors

---3.1.Under-Dash Wire Connectors that are Grounded:
C421:
#s 1,3,5,9,10,16,17,18
C551:
#s 1,4,11,13,15
C419
#s 4
---3.2. ECM/PCM Connectors that are Grounded:
To be Posted soon after Tests.

Can somebody explain me where does each wire connects and location of the other end of that wire. thank you.

eg. on C421 #1 the other end is on ???
eg. on c421 #1 the other end is on ??? and it connects to ??? which changes the wire to ???

Former User

What milli-amp draw from the battery ground wire do you measure with everything connected?

What milli-amp draw from the battery ground wire do you measure with only fuses 47 and 51 removed?

renzis00

what is a good range? i havent written it down, but with OHMS Resistance mostly it was 1 but theres this pin that has a 20, a 5, and negatives.
47 and 51 i forgot.

Lizardslap

set it to amps and hook it up in and disconnect your hot side on the battery and measure between the battery post + and the + connector and read that


also try pulling the alternator wires out careful with the one with the post it can extremely easily snap off when you go to disconnect it as well as when putting it back on

I had a battery drain problem pulled every fuse and relay and found no problem until I disconnected the alternator that later turned out to be no good

Former User

It's unclear whether there's a parasitic current drain problem until you provide this^ key information.

I think a current drain of up to 25-50 mA is normal.

renzis00

i dont know how or what you're talking. you talking about the terminal battery post positive and the positive side of the connector? how would i know which ones are possitive, all i know is blacks are ground or negatives. -_-

BUT heres a more good reading, from pulling fuses, there is little draw from fuse #51 about .015 Volts on the Fuse #47 i get a 12.2 Reading and dropping. i tried it with the alternator wire from the fuse box pulled out, and pulled the #47, dropped to 0.030(with #51), then i plugged in the alternator wire and it had a reading of 12 without the #47 fuse. that is wihtout reseting my DVOM

Lizardslap

do that

renzis00

well i wish honda service manual a page for that fuse 47.

Former User

Correctly do the tests for parasitic drain. It's easy.

dazebreak

Very nice vid. I learned something which could be useful down the road.

There was this part where he tested the battery. So when the battery won't charge to 12.6V, maps to a particular cca value? He did this cca check, but here in the real world without the fancy battery tester we can just go by the voltage (after putting it on a charger), correct?

Lizardslap

try and start car with meter hooked up and see what the voltage drops to if it goes to under 10v when cranking its probably bad