I have a 01 prelude, blew my stock motor. So I purchased a obd1 H22A1 long block. Switched everything over including oil pump. Now I have a CEL of the CKP sensor. Took the car to Honda they did some diagnostic test with the scan tool. Sensor checked out good but they say I might have a bad ECM. So I went and bought a jumper clip and ran an obd1 ecu. Still have the same freaking problem. It will not rev past 3k. With the stock ecu the car will jump idle up and down real bad until it warms up. What do you think it can be. This is my only car and I need help.

 

i had an issue with no being able to rev past 3k, but it was a broken clogged cat. not sure if this helps any bit.

 

i haved hulled out my cat.

 

CKP is the crank sensor on the oil pump. Pull the crank pulley and lower timing cover off and inspect the wiring. Also, make sure it is plugged in.

 

It seems that it is DEF a timing issue whether it be the ckps or not im not sure. You said that you had a conversion harness and an obd1 computer hooked up to it but which injectors are you running? You need to run the ecu and the resistor box FOR the injectors you have installed. You can try to run a obd1 dissy and unplug the ckps to see if thats your problem. If you just want to get anouther sensor harnes then i have 2 oof those available. I would suggest gettin a timing light on it asap! Mine did this because my belt was a tooth off which turned out to be about 18 degrees diff. Mine ended up slinging a rod because i ran it to much while the timing was off so i wouldnt run it too much until you get that timing light.

 

Well i am running obd2 injectors with my obd2 engine harness. The car will do the same problem on a obd2 ecu and obd1 ecu. i can't just swap dizzy because of the wiring harness. that would involve in splicing the engine harness for the internal ckp on a obd1.

 

It sounds like your ecm's in back up, or "limp mode".

When the ecm fails, the back up will kick in, not letting the engine rev past 3000k, but the car will still run.

Have you done the ecm reset procedure, by pulling the "clock fuse", or taking the battery cables off and holding them together for 15sec.?

If you jump the service connector, and you are showing no cel code, but the (cel) light is on, on the dash constantly this would be a good indication of a bad ecm.

Hopefully not, but try resetting it first.

HTH,

-Shadow-

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow29485 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It sounds like your ecm's in back up, or "limp mode".

When the ecm fails, the back up will kick in, not letting the engine rev past 3000k, but the car will still run.

Have you done the ecm reset procedure, by pulling the "clock fuse", or taking the battery cables off and holding them together for 15sec.?

If you jump the service connector, and you are showing no cel code, but the (cel) light is on, on the dash constantly this would be a good indication of a bad ecm.

Hopefully not, but try resetting it first.

HTH,

-Shadow-
</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do you do the "clock fuse" resetting procedure. Do you just pull it?

 

I'm not to sure with the 5th gens. But the ecm reset pro. can be done on a 4th gen. by pulling the "clock" fuse under the hood in the fuse block waiting approx 20 min. Than just put it back in.

The newer vehicles can reset the ecm, by pulling both positive and negative cables off of the battery, and touching them together should reset it. If this is the case, and you have a stock radio, make sure that you have a reset code for the radio.

By doing it either way, your cutting all memory loss in not just the ecm, but your cutting all memory to everything that holds it (memory) the whole car, such as your channel selections, and time, or clock. Which I'm sure that's the least of your worries right about now.

Do you have a cel that is "ON", even when the service conn. is jumped?

 

Just did the ecm reset last night and started the car back up. Still have the same problem. Woke up this morning now the car won't even start. When I turn the key over just complete silent. This is with the stock ecm.

 

Did you finally get it started?

 

i have that problem with my h23 but its called the TDC sensor that why you cant go over 3000 get that at your dealer ship

 

his check engine light has nothing to do with the distributor.

 

Had the same problem, it was the ecu or ecm, I had a racing ship installed but the guy messed up with the soldering, someoneelse fixed it and now it's fine, the at ecu worked fine also, cuz I bought it by accident at ebay while I got the other one fixed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow29485 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Did you finally get it started?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
got it started by a push start because the starter just gave out on me.

I also have a Apexi Power FC that i use to run in the car. The car won't even start on that ecu anymore.

 

up for anymore ideas i can do

 

Was this (your ignition problem) AFTER you reset the ecu?

The engine isn't turning over at all, (after you reset it)?

Or has this been the problem all along including the idol surge "Before it warms up"?

Tell us a little more in detail...So we can try to help.

 

When i swapped in the obd1 motor i bought a new obd2 oil pump for the ckp sensor. didn't want to do it the ghetto way. well after everything was put together and started up. the problem happened right away. well on the way home the balance belt tensioner locked up and tore up my timing belt. bought a new belt and tensioner. but everything back together and when i started it up the idle sure for about a minute of two until warmed up then idles out. after reset the ecm the problem stayed the same. but after it warms up the surge is gone. the honda dealership tested out the olms and continuity everything checked out. haven't hit the timing light to it yet but the tech there says it doesn't sound like it is off timing. they reason why the engine is turning now is because the starter gave out on me. but fixing that today.

 

up

 

fixed my problem last night. turns out that when i swap everything over i didn't swap over the balancer belt pulley. now the car runs like a champ. the obd1 pulley doesn't have the teeth for the ckp sensor to read.

 

Yet honda certified that the sensor was OK in the first place? lol idiots.

Good find

 

Honda technicains aren't trained to work on obd2 cars with obd1 jdm motors. Technicians don't routinely deal with **** like that. Also they have no materials to go off of so what are they going to do? Search the internet?

He said the sensor's ok and guess what the sensor was ok. The tech is supposed to just know that its an obd 1 motor with an obd 2 oil pump with an obd 1 balancer belt pulley? That's retarded.

 

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I bought a 1991 honda crx with a 1992 acura integra b18 motor in it. after he swapped the motor he has had the same problem..It idles and starts fine..Just wont go past 3000 rpm. I bought the car off him cause he was sick of trying to figure out the problem. It supposebly has a obd1 computer with the integra wiring harness. Its spitting out the crank sensor code when you hook it up to the computer.? Do you think i have the same problem? thanks a lot..im new to the import games. Anthony 574-806-5750

 

FIXED THIS ISSUE ON MY ACCORD!!!

I had this same issue I have a stock 98 accord lx 2.3L it would not rev passed 3k RPM and when I started the engine was bogged I gutted my Cat converter changed spark plugs I reset my ECU still the same issue

WHAT FIXED IT...
I disconnected my MAP sensor
cleaned it with HEAVY!!! With CRC MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR CLEANER
plugged it back in and what do you know good to go
I hope this helps