Ok, first off, the problem is my engine is running a little hotter than normal, my under the hood temps are much higher than they should be, and some how this is affecting the way my transmission shifts.. I know it sounds off but just listen:

I've noticed the entire engine bay is scorching when I get done with a long (30 min. or more) driving session.. if there is any stand still traffic the temp sits about half way on the gauge and i hear the fan turn on and off constantly.. during this time my transmission decides it doesn't want to go into gear unless I turn the car off and let it cool down a bit. this has happened about 3 times in the past week, so it's become a very consistent issue.

The engine is a b16a built for boost.. 9:1 wiseco pistons, H-beam rods, valve job, valve springs, retainers, etc.

the head was from the OBD0 PR3 b16, which has the FIV which i blocked, and ran the IACV lines differently because the B16A3 block doesn't have the nipples used to route the coolant back, so I ran it like the pictures below show. Could this possibly be the culprit? I've noticed my IACV gets EXTREMELY hot, which brings me to question it.

 

Has it had this problem since you installed the engine, or did this just start recently? Chances are if the problem JUST started, it's not going to be the rerouting you did with the IACV.

This may be a dumb question, but have you checked your coolant levels and made sure you're not leaking coolant? Have you checked your oil to make sure there is no coolant in the oil and also checked the coolant to make sure there is no oil in the coolant?

How badly are you overheating? Are we talking like all the way to "H" on the temp gauge? Your radiator fan is turning on so you know that's not the problem. I've never heard of someone having tranny problems because their engine is overheating a little bit...

 

the under the hood temps have been high since i put the motor in, all fluid levels have been closely monitored and maintain their original attributes.

the transmission issue just started last week, and like i said, it only happens when the car is running hot.

when I say hot, I mean the temp gauge is right about half way, and i feel a loss in power. the fan kicks on constantly while not in motion and anything under the hood is too hot for hands.. i've also tried bleeding air from the coolant

 

have you checked your cat to see if it's plugged, that can cause the motor to run quite hot. What do your spark plugs look like? They will tell you if it's running lean. When you shut your car off to let it cool can you get it into gear when you shut it off or do you have to let it cool first?

 

not sure if the catalytic converter would be causing this much heat, as it was used on the d16y8 that was previously in the car with no issues..

It's easy to get into gear while it's very hot and the car isnt running. once the car cools down it shifts the same way.


Modified by jdm_vtec at 3:27 PM 10/14/2007

 

ne other ideas?

 

I will throw a few ideas out there. Do not get offended if these are things you have checked okay? Is there thermostat good? Could be effecting the flow, and thus overheating. Easy way to check I suppose is when the car is warmed up and has been run, the bottom hose should be cooled because the rad just cooled it. If its not that means the coolant is not circulating. I doubt this is the problem though. Water pump new? Any chance the water/coolant jackets are clogged? Right mixture of water/coolant? Doesnt it **** you off the fact how simple the cooling sytem process is, but its a pain in the *** to diagnose?

 

just replaced the thermostat, so i'll know if it works in the next 24 hours.. i took it for a test drive but there's no way to know for sure until i run it during the peak florida heat during traffic.. other than that the water pump is new, and the motor was just rebuilt.. so i know there's nothing between the sleeves and the block.

I just picked up a turbonetics T3/T4 a/r .60 .63, so I need to fix this before the snail goes on

 

is there an official coolant diagnosing thread? i'm getting pretty annoyed.

when I got home today both radiator hoses were hot as hell along with everything else under the hood..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there an official coolant diagnosing thread? i'm getting pretty annoyed.

when I got home today both radiator hoses were hot as hell along with everything else under the hood..</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your coolant gauge is not going over the middle line, you are running normal. Coolant lines will be very hot to the touch, and so will most of the engine...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If your coolant gauge is not going over the middle line, you are running normal. Coolant lines will be very hot to the touch, and so will most of the engine...</TD></TR></TABLE> I will say from MY experience that the hose running from the bottom of the radiator to the backside of the block will and should be cool. Why? If the radiator is doings its job that coolant should be cool in that hose. Thus is the coolant is cool then the hose should be cool. I thought something was wrong with my car when that hose was cool and the other was HOT but searching on here for two hours proved over and over again to me that it was normal. I AM NOT trying to pick an e-fight but I am just stating what I have learned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If your coolant gauge is not going over the middle line, you are running normal. Coolant lines will be very hot to the touch, and so will most of the engine...</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is a pretty inaccurate response, considering tuners have seen over 240 degrees from electronic temp readings with the stock gauge showing normal.. i do appreciate the feedback though

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Ry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I will say from MY experience that the hose running from the bottom of the radiator to the backside of the block will and should be cool. Why? If the radiator is doings its job that coolant should be cool in that hose. Thus is the coolant is cool then the hose should be cool. I thought something was wrong with my car when that hose was cool and the other was HOT but searching on here for two hours proved over and over again to me that it was normal. I AM NOT trying to pick an e-fight but I am just stating what I have learned. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm always doing stuff under the hood, and i've noticed a HUGE increase in heat going from the stock d16y8 to my b16a.. the cooler thermostat didn't help so i'm back to the drawing board