Repainting lip. Need prep help
ok so basically what i need to do is only prep the lip and a friend mine will be painting it.. so the deal is, what do i use to remove the prior paint, what grit do i sand with, and what do i use as a flexible primer/adhesive? also, how do i remove scuffs from the previous owner bottoming out??? any help would be greatly appreciated....BTW its a oem 00 si lip
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SmellySOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so basically what i need to do is only prep the lip and a friend mine will be painting it.. so the deal is, what do i use to remove the prior paint, what grit do i sand with, and what do i use as a flexible primer/adhesive? also, how do i remove scuffs from the previous owner bottoming out??? any help would be greatly appreciated....BTW its a oem 00 si lip
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so it's an ABS lip? how bad is the damage? if it's really bad you have to sand it all down to bare material.
if it's just some minor scruff, just sand it with 220 sand paper, rub up all the paint with a hatch strokes.
you DONT need flex agent if you are not sanding it down all the way, btw you only add flex agent to the primer(which you dont need to remove if the lip is not totally toasted) and the clear Coat.
onmi's clear is very flexible, i doubt you need to add flex to it if you are using that.
</TD></TR></TABLE>so it's an ABS lip? how bad is the damage? if it's really bad you have to sand it all down to bare material.
if it's just some minor scruff, just sand it with 220 sand paper, rub up all the paint with a hatch strokes.
you DONT need flex agent if you are not sanding it down all the way, btw you only add flex agent to the primer(which you dont need to remove if the lip is not totally toasted) and the clear Coat.
onmi's clear is very flexible, i doubt you need to add flex to it if you are using that.
well its going to be repainted a completely different color so i have to strip it anyway..its only scraped from bottoming out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SmellySOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well its going to be repainted a completely different color so i have to strip it anyway..its only scraped from bottoming out</TD></TR></TABLE>
um...you don't need to stripe it down to bare material even if you are painting it to a totally different colour, damaged lip or not.
the reason for "sanding" the clear coat is to get the coat to stick(think of cleaning a stain off smooth leather instead of rugged cotton, the smooth surface will have much lesser "stick" to it)
um...you don't need to stripe it down to bare material even if you are painting it to a totally different colour, damaged lip or not.
the reason for "sanding" the clear coat is to get the coat to stick(think of cleaning a stain off smooth leather instead of rugged cotton, the smooth surface will have much lesser "stick" to it)
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If your lip is urathane, look into Sems urathane bumper stripper. It should do the job without damaging the urathane.
I however have an abs lip. I tried that stuff and it damaged it (not to the point where i had to trash it). So if refinished it accouple times. How i did it was start with 150 grit or so sand paper and moved down to 600. You don't need to get to the base surface but with any cracks, chips, spider webbing, etc, you want to sand that all the way down.
After sanding, i use high build filler primmer. Then sand that totally smooth with 600 grit. Then use color match spray paint and clear. Works pretty well.
I however have an abs lip. I tried that stuff and it damaged it (not to the point where i had to trash it). So if refinished it accouple times. How i did it was start with 150 grit or so sand paper and moved down to 600. You don't need to get to the base surface but with any cracks, chips, spider webbing, etc, you want to sand that all the way down.
After sanding, i use high build filler primmer. Then sand that totally smooth with 600 grit. Then use color match spray paint and clear. Works pretty well.
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