B18C1, I/E, w/ Chipped JDM p30 ECU

im getting a 50shot of nitrous for free since my bro is getting a 150 shot on his LT1, so i was wondering what i would need to do to keep my car from blowing up. i was told i need to run a p72 ecu since the p30 is chipped, and it advances the timing or w/e, but is there anyway to get away with it without having to buy a new ecu? need colder spark plugs?

TIA!

 

bump

 

Assuming your ECU is meant for your engine (doesn't matter if it's chipped), there is no need to replace it.

Retard your ignition timing, buy a set of colder plugs, and you're good to go. Just ensure that your fuel system is up to par.


EDIT: There is no need to bump your thread every 43 minutes...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ddd4114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Assuming your ECU is meant for your engine (doesn't matter if it's chipped), there is no need to replace it.

Retard your ignition timing, buy a set of colder plugs, and you're good to go. Just ensure that your fuel system is up to par.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it is, the chip we used was ment for a p28, but it still works decently well with a p30. how much do u recomend retarding the timing? the cold plugs i could get for like 2 bucks each, so ill see if i can get them sometime monday. my fuel system is stock, but i think i might need to replace the fuel filter soon... ill check it on monday as well.

 

All of this information is readily available online. Do some research to better prepare yourself.

http://www.google.com/search?h...earch

 

wet or dry kit?

upgrades I would suggest

walbro fuel pump
new oem fuel filter
fuel pressure gauge
4 ngk bkr7e sprak plugs (2step colder)
msd rpm activated switch

I'd go with 2 degress timing retard.Since your ecu's chipped you could easily find someone to make you the correct chip and tune your setup.

 

will the stock fuel pump work? the kit was a 25 shot, but we drilled out the 'pill' so the shot size is unkown. its somewhere from 35-50 my guess.

im still researching nitrous, so for now im guessing its ganna be a dry shot, since its probably easier... once i do some more research i might upgrade to a wet shot.

 

I would recommend a wet shot. I also would recomend buying the proper jets for the size shot your wanting to run as opposed to drilling one out. What brand kit do you have. I have an Edelbrock kit on my mazda and it came with 40 stainless steel jets so the shot can be adjusted (from a 50-200 shot)

 

im trying to keep this as a very low budget thing, im guessing since it was originaly a 25 shot, it couldnt be much bigger, which it probably isnt, than a 50 shot. my guess would be around 40-ish shot. its a Nx, or Nos brand set up.

 

Is this dry or wet? WHat brand?

 

Well, if you want to keep the build cheap, I wouldn't try to save 4 bucks on a pill or jet and risk blowing up your new motor. Unless you know exacly what size you drilled the hole, to say one thousanth, than you can't calculate what shot you have. Also, if you double the size of the hole, you increase the size of the shot by a factor of 4, not 2. I seriously can not see someone skimping out on a 4 dollar part when it's so crucial. There is no way in hell I would run a dry shot either, as that will cause the engine to go very lean when your spraying, which will cause a multitude of things including increased piston temperatures, increased egt's, and detonation. Just my advice. I've blown 3 engines with nitrous, so I speek from experience.

 

i know where your coming from, im planning on buying a bigger pill, ive had the parts for about a month, and im not installing it untill i get the jet, i was going to install it with the drilled out jet, but went against it. i was going to run a dry shot, but im still asking people around, and getting advice from other guys and ****.

dont you need some plate near the intake, or tb for the wet shot? how much would that run me? i know the local performance shop is big on nitrous so i could get it but im still asking around.

thanks for the info btw.

 

I suggest you go to some sites that sell nitrous and read up about them. You will find that a dry kit can easily be upgraded to a wet kit with the addition of another solenoid, a couple lines to hook it up, and a new fogger that has inlets for nitrous and fuel. It mounts in the same place and requirtes no additional plate. I suggest going and looking up Edelbrock, Coldfusionnitrous, and NX. These vendors sell quality parts and there sites will explain the basics to a nitrous kit and answer all your questions as they are fundamental.

I will say this. Don't run a dry shot. You need a wet shot to maintain the proper Air/Fuel ratio which is critical when the engine under full load for multiple reasons.