when ever i let off the gas and coast in gear then come to a stop i have a really bad oil smoke issue.. i get clouds coming out of the tail pipe. same goes for going down a hill and coming to a stop sign, etc.

if i rev the engine up a little while i slow down or just pop it out of gear when i know im going to stop, it wont smoke.

oil pressure is at around 15psi at normal op temps.. idle ~500rpm. pressure climbs to 55psi around 3500rpm.

the turbo is 2nd hand and i was told all the seals were replaced by the person i purchased it from. its a mitsubishi te04h, off a 2.2L plymouth sundance. fairly small.

i thought it might be the oil drain, so i aligned the drain from the turbo perfectly and made sure the hose had no kinks and was always sloping down into the pan. ill post up pics of the pan and drain setup when i get home. it still smokes as described above.

i have a restrictor installed directly before the turbo's inlet. could it be too large for 5w30 oil?


how can i stop the smoke?! anyone else seen anything similar?

 

How is your oil pan tapped... high enough ?

 

yeah its pretty high... on the inside of the pan it comes through right about the level where the inner oil pan webbing stops. once i get home i can throw up some detailed pics


engine is a turbo d15b2

 

Can always take your charge piping off to see if there is oil inside.

 

so lets say i find oil in the charge piping... what does that tell me?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so lets say i find oil in the charge piping... what does that tell me? </TD></TR></TABLE>the turbo seals are bad

 

well here are the pics of the pan and the drain.







ill check the charge piping tomorrow

 

Thats just a tad lower then I would like it, and depending on the angle of it, it might be even worse.

 

correct me if i'm wrong, but i heard that the new greddy kits use the factory oil pan drain as the drain back for the turbo? From my understanding (from what i've read on here) is that when your in the upper rpm's there is almost a vacuum in the oil pan and it will "pull" the oil out of the turbo no matter what (to an extent obviously) and that the position of the drain back bung/nipple is overrated.
o well i'm probably wrong, it's 3am and i'm exhausted, done for the night

 

Sounds like it smokes under heavy vacuum situations, what's the PCV setup like?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicVX94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">correct me if i'm wrong, but i heard that the new greddy kits use the factory oil pan drain as the drain back for the turbo? From my understanding (from what i've read on here) is that when your in the upper rpm's there is almost a vacuum in the oil pan and it will "pull" the oil out of the turbo no matter what (to an extent obviously) and that the position of the drain back bung/nipple is overrated.
o well i'm probably wrong, it's 3am and i'm exhausted, done for the night </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well on boosted cars you will have a bit of pressure in the crankcase(oil area) or if you have it setup really well you will have no pressure or vacuum in it(somewhat hard, not many people do it unless heavily modified), or if you really got some cash you can have an elaborate setup which will create a vacuum in the crankcase, which is difficult and expensive.

I can't comment on how greddy returns the oil, but i would bet good money that its not through the stock drain plug.


Back on topic:

If its only smoking when your letting off the gas under load(still in gear, not just revving) then most likely you are having some suck-by(ok so i don't know the term). But this is most common on your valve guide seals where they are too loose and the engine is pulling oil from the head into the cylinder through the valve guides. This only happens when a good vacuum is present(decelerating in gear), and typically won't show up when just revving or accelerating the engine. Its not always the valve guide/seals either, but its somewhat common. it could also be caused by excessive blow-by pushing oil through the valve-guides but you would see this more when your on it, not when you let off.

Its hard to really test for this, as leak-down and comp tests just don't deal with the valve guides/seals.

If you want more power someday, save up for some new cams or port-work and fix these while your in there!

 

mine is that low and never had any problems..

 

thanks for the replys

im not running any PCV system at the moment

the engine didnt burn a drop of oil before going FI... BUT it was an automatic and i cant think off hand if the auto decelerates in gear or not, or how that works. so maybe it is the valve seals.

everyone agrees that the oil drain is ok? seems fine to me. i looked at a d15b2 without an oil pan with a dip stick in it, and my drain seems above that level. ill confirm with measurements. Here is one more pic of the pan, maybe a better angle.




i do seem to be getting a hefty amount of blow by when i take off my oil cap and there was a small pool of oil in each spark plug tube when i changed my plugs.
175psi across, but maybe the engine isnt as healthy as i thought?
Dan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i do seem to be getting a hefty amount of blow by when i take off my oil cap and there was a small pool of oil in each spark plug tube when i changed my plugs.
175psi across, but maybe the engine isnt as healthy as i thought?
Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Look into the valve cover gasket, and grommets.

 

yeah im going to replace my spark plug tube seals... no question about that...

so i measured the distance from the bottom of the block to the top eye in the oil dip stick, and there is 2" between them

i measured the distance my oil dran is from the oil pan edge, its just under 2" at the bottom of the drain

so it looks like i fcuked the oil drain up right from the get go.

im going to make a new pan tomorrow and try to weld it up as high as possible. does anyone know if it helps to mount the drain off to the side where the pan has no depth?

also it looks like my turbo is spewing out oil from the v-band clamp. the clamp is damn tight. you would think there would be more than enough pressure from the oil feed to push the oil into the pan even if the drain was below the oil level, but it looks like the pressure is just pushing oil out of the center housing. any ideas?

zero oil in the charge piping

Dan

 

Thats common with that motor. The valvetrain is not up to turbo specifications at all. I would do a compression and leak down test.

 

do a compression test to see if its going past the rings...

check your ic piping to see if its your compressor seals.

If both those are good....could be leaking out the turbine housing.

 

That oil drain looks pretty low. When mine was that low, if i took the oil return line off, oil would start draining out of the fitting.

 

nothing comes out my drain when i take off the hose.... but i think its just close enough to back up under hard decel while in high rpm, and thats quite often these days...

i threw on a smaller restrictor (had to cut my pre made lines... booo) and it seems to help quite a bit. same problem tho just a bit less smoke

 

compression test only check the first ring.

Im having the same issue also. im about 90% sure is my rings. I used soe hastings rings. I also just had the head rebuilt with VG,VS ect. so there good. I bet you rings are toast. common for FI cars (stock)

 

175 across... its healthy

anyways i pulled the head off my core d16 and redid the valve seals tonight. pain on the back! haha.
going to throw it on the d15 tomorrow with a new y8 HG and some arp's and see whats up.

also going to fab up my new oil pan hopefully tomorrow as well.

 

car runs nice with the new head.

the HG that was installed before looked good but there was steam coming out of one cyl, im pretty sure i lifted the old head a bit on the stock head studs

the ARPs and metal y8 head gasket should fix that

its hard to tell if there is any oil in my exhaust when im down shifting since its night time.

gonna do up a new oil pan tomorrow anyways just in case.