d16a6 rebuild, I have two blocks, which should I use?
I have two d16a6 blocks to use for my rebuild. I'm just building it for mild boost, about 6-8psi, using a .42/.48 t3. Basically I just want to do an OEM rebuild using arp studs to make it a bit stronger. Goals are around 200whp.
Here are the two blocks I have. I am only concerned with the bare blocks here, not with cranks or anything else
The first one has a steel and aluminum girdle. It did have a spun rod bearing but I'm not using the crank. I am worried there may be shavings in the oil passages but not sure how I'd clean those out.
Here is how its journals look, notice the steel caps on the girdle:


The second block has an entirely aluminum girdle. It just had a blown headgasket so no chance of shavings anywhere, but I'm wondering if there is a strength advantage to the steel girdle over the aluminum one.
Here is how its journals look:


Is there a strength advantage either way with the girdle differences? How about the journals, which one looks best to you guys? Also is there a risk of shavings being everywhere inside on the one that spun a rod bearing?
Here are the two blocks I have. I am only concerned with the bare blocks here, not with cranks or anything else
The first one has a steel and aluminum girdle. It did have a spun rod bearing but I'm not using the crank. I am worried there may be shavings in the oil passages but not sure how I'd clean those out.
Here is how its journals look, notice the steel caps on the girdle:
The second block has an entirely aluminum girdle. It just had a blown headgasket so no chance of shavings anywhere, but I'm wondering if there is a strength advantage to the steel girdle over the aluminum one.
Here is how its journals look:
Is there a strength advantage either way with the girdle differences? How about the journals, which one looks best to you guys? Also is there a risk of shavings being everywhere inside on the one that spun a rod bearing?
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From: Somewhere puffin away in Spokane, USA
Why not just have them hot tanked? I mean it is kinda cheap insurance to ensure EVERYTHING is clean of small stuff you may not even see.
I would assume steel as well, but I am curious if the coefficient of expansion makes a difference (the upper half being aluminum and the lower being steel vs both being aluminum).
Also the series numbers on the block are 4 million for the all aluminum, and 2 million for the half/half one. I always thought the numbers were related to casting date, which would indicate the steel is the older version.
Anybody with knowledge on this subject?
Also the series numbers on the block are 4 million for the all aluminum, and 2 million for the half/half one. I always thought the numbers were related to casting date, which would indicate the steel is the older version.
Anybody with knowledge on this subject?
got a few more answers on another forum.
Looks like the aluminum one is indeed the later model, and is the same as the one used in the d16z6.
I decided it's probably the best choice as it is cleaner, and hasn't had a bearing spun in it. Plus its about 4lbs lighter.
Another question.
Based on the pictures, do you think I should have the journals micropolished? Or should I just start to measure and assemble?
Looks like the aluminum one is indeed the later model, and is the same as the one used in the d16z6.
I decided it's probably the best choice as it is cleaner, and hasn't had a bearing spun in it. Plus its about 4lbs lighter.
Another question.
Based on the pictures, do you think I should have the journals micropolished? Or should I just start to measure and assemble?
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