Ok, so I had a tire that was about to blow apart. I go to take the tire off and evidently somone cross threaded a lugnut and tightened it down with an impact, So about half way off the stud starts spinning, I fought with it for a while and finally ended up cutting the lug nut with the plasma cutter and then cut the stud off smooth to get the wheel off, How do you replace the stud on a 93 Civic. I got the new stud just looking for some pointers before I go into it tomorrow I need to drive it monday!

 

jack up the car, put a jackstand where you want to work under the body support point. after you take off the wheel, there are two bolts holding the caliper assembly that you will need to remove. it will come right off. then take off your brake rotor, the screws might be frozen, so have some pbblaster or even extra screws in case they strip. once the rotor is off, the wheels studs will be in plain sight, ready for the changing! then just put it all back together!

a helms would really help you here, its a great investment. i love mine

 

sounds simple to me

 

I had this just had this exact thing happen to me yesterday. the lug nut/stud started spinning right after i was taking my wheels off to put some new HX's on. So i had 3 new wheels on and one steelie that was stuck on there with 3 good lug studs. I had to grind the lug/lugnut down also to get my wheel off and tore up my good old steelie.

I had this happen another time also. This time it was on the passenger front. But the last time it was on the drivers side front. It ovaled out my lug holes in my steelie (luckily it wasn't anything special) and had to get it towed. All 4 lug studs snapped off and I couldn't drive it to my house. It cost me 400 to fix it at this shop..

This time i went to the junkyard, got a new hub/spindle/a-arm and just swapped it onto mine and fixed my problem.

 

So on a Civic you don't have to take off the axel nut? The rotor itself just comes off?

 

I got it all apart, but I cant get the studs out they hit against the spindle assembly?

 

I had the same problem. The 99 si, the stud was hitting the spindle assembly. So we took it apart from the axle. then we then pop out the studs. It was a bitch. Good luck with the change.

 

I need to have this done in 2 hours, Should I just put it all back together and drive it with 3 for now?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShortyzKustomz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need to have this done in 2 hours, Should I just put it all back together and drive it with 3 for now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you will be ok with 3. i had 3 for a long long time.

 

I got it fixed, hammered the old one out with some hard persuasion, got the new one in with some dust sheild modification with the hammer, and did the washer trick to pull it up tight...

This also helps...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAcMwPCI6a0

 

For any one with a 94 civic. ( buy the studs you need before you take the axle to the shop) I bought mine at NAPA (to removed replace wheel studs (lug bolts) requires removing the following: remove wheel, brake calipers (two bolts), rotor (two small screws, being carful not to strip with phillips, sometimes these are rusted frozen) spindle nut with a 1/2" drive 32mm socket (cost about $17) with a air impact wrench ( crimp on nut must be opened first) dont fight the nut won't come off (I took my assembly to a shop, had the spindle nut removed, the hub pressed out, replaced studs and pressed back in, about $40 ) Pointer--tell the mechanic to leave the hub off and after you replace the axle put the hub on and tighten down the spindle nut and crimp the nut like it was) Continuing with disassembly of the wheel lug/bearing assembly; remove steering linkeage, and any other nuts, (All have a cotter key) and bolts from the assembly itself. Dont go further back and remove any thing else. A special removal tool might be needed to remove the steering lingeage (looks like a big fork with two blades) . If you hammer the bolt you might ruin the bolt. Get under the car, follow the axle from the hub/bearing assembly back to the motor. There you will find (at the end of the axle another housing unit (looks like a small oil filter with the axle going through it to the motor. Take a large screwdriver and place it between the housing unit and motor and pry the axle gently to seperate it from the motor. Once you are sure the axle is ready to be pulled out, remember everything is together (the hub/bearing assembly and the axle come out together there is a nut you have to remove that is attached to an arm that goes from the hub up to and near the strut (shock absorber). All but one nut has a cotter key The one without a key is a part that looks like a fork and attaches on both sides of the hub assembly. This nut and long bolt must be removed and the fork disconnected from the hub assembly to be able to remove the complete axle/hub/bearing assembly ( the filter like divice at the end of the axle will not fit through the fork. Unless you have a press take it to the shop like I did and save yourself a big headache. final note---You will need a jack to raise and lower the assembly to accomodate the removal of replacing the parts. when you remove steering linkeage make note not to screw it it right or left, this changes the caster or camber, put it back the way it was. Now you can say you did it your self and it was a major operation. Now you are a happy camper.

 

here yo go
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907985