HPDE
i have a good amount of time before my first hpde but need help so that my car is ready for a fun day at the track i would like to know what u think i need to get my car ready and helpful hints on driving tech and setup
first i have a 98 honda civic ex its stock jus intake and ebay coilovers i also have rota gt3 with some hankook k103s on them still have those danm drum brakes.
i race karts (shifter) and have had 2 sucesful test in formula BMW cars but never done anything outside open wheel and am looking to start thank u for ur help
first i have a 98 honda civic ex its stock jus intake and ebay coilovers i also have rota gt3 with some hankook k103s on them still have those danm drum brakes.
i race karts (shifter) and have had 2 sucesful test in formula BMW cars but never done anything outside open wheel and am looking to start thank u for ur help
Click this link.
http://www.nasaproracing.com/hpde/index.html
Look all the way at the bottom, there are a few links there that will help you out with prepping for your first HPDE.
http://www.nasaproracing.com/hpde/index.html
Look all the way at the bottom, there are a few links there that will help you out with prepping for your first HPDE.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm-ek-si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a good amount of time before my first hpde but need help so that my car is ready for a fun day at the track i would like to know what u think i need to get my car ready and helpful hints on driving tech and setup
first i have a 98 honda civic ex its stock jus intake and ebay coilovers i also have rota gt3 with some hankook k103s on them still have those danm drum brakes.
i race karts (shifter) and have had 2 sucesful test in formula BMW cars but never done anything outside open wheel and am looking to start thank u for ur help</TD></TR></TABLE>
Two suggestions:
1. For your first several HPDE events, leave your car just as it's set up now. Just make sure it's in good mechanical shape, with fresh fluids, sufficient brake pad thickness, etc. If you're flushing the brake fluid anyway, you may want to consider a high-temp fluid like Motul RBF 600, but other than that, don't change a thing. You will be gaining a lot of experience, and your experience will be the limiting factor, not your brakes or your tires or anything on your car. (After you drive in several events, you might want to consider upgrading tires, brake pads, etc, but wait until then, when you have the experience to prioritize what to do and determine what to upgrade to.)
2. Type your posts here in English, and leave the text message abbreviations to your cell phone.
first i have a 98 honda civic ex its stock jus intake and ebay coilovers i also have rota gt3 with some hankook k103s on them still have those danm drum brakes.
i race karts (shifter) and have had 2 sucesful test in formula BMW cars but never done anything outside open wheel and am looking to start thank u for ur help</TD></TR></TABLE>
Two suggestions:
1. For your first several HPDE events, leave your car just as it's set up now. Just make sure it's in good mechanical shape, with fresh fluids, sufficient brake pad thickness, etc. If you're flushing the brake fluid anyway, you may want to consider a high-temp fluid like Motul RBF 600, but other than that, don't change a thing. You will be gaining a lot of experience, and your experience will be the limiting factor, not your brakes or your tires or anything on your car. (After you drive in several events, you might want to consider upgrading tires, brake pads, etc, but wait until then, when you have the experience to prioritize what to do and determine what to upgrade to.)
2. Type your posts here in English, and leave the text message abbreviations to your cell phone.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're flushing the brake fluid anyway, you may want to consider a high-temp fluid like Motul RBF 600, but other than that, don't change a thing. </TD></TR></TABLE>This should NOT be an if. It's a MUST if you haven't done it in the last year. Your car is a '98. That's 10 years for the brake fluid to act as a sponge and suck up water. Pick up any can of DOT 3 brake fluid - they have a dry and wet boiling point listed. That's because of water in the fluid. For a $10 can of brake fluid and an hour to bleed the entire system, take the time.
I've always had good luck with ATE Super Blue. Really any DOT 4/performance fluid will be better than 10 year old fluid. There is nothing worse than doing 110 and feeling your brake pedal go to the floor. Ask me how I know.
I've always had good luck with ATE Super Blue. Really any DOT 4/performance fluid will be better than 10 year old fluid. There is nothing worse than doing 110 and feeling your brake pedal go to the floor. Ask me how I know.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newuser333 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This should NOT be an if. It's a MUST if you haven't done it in the last year.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If he has changed his fluid in the past six months, he doesn't need to flush it again. (That's why it is indeed an "if", where I said "fresh fluids".)
If you do need to flush the brake fluid, it's worth spending a few bucks more for a fluid with a higher boiling point, which means it's less likely to boil. I use Motul RBF 600, whose dry boiling point is 593F (vs 536 for the ATE). You can see a list of prices and boiling points for many brake fluids in this topic.
If he has changed his fluid in the past six months, he doesn't need to flush it again. (That's why it is indeed an "if", where I said "fresh fluids".)
If you do need to flush the brake fluid, it's worth spending a few bucks more for a fluid with a higher boiling point, which means it's less likely to boil. I use Motul RBF 600, whose dry boiling point is 593F (vs 536 for the ATE). You can see a list of prices and boiling points for many brake fluids in this topic.
Sorry - I didn't mean any offense - I just wanted to clarify the point that brakes are crucial.
And I also don't disagree that the Motul is a better fluid, but I also wanted to point out that any performance rated fluid is better than factory DOT 3. And my personal experience is with ATE in a 3600 pound Mustang. I've never boiled it!
And I also don't disagree that the Motul is a better fluid, but I also wanted to point out that any performance rated fluid is better than factory DOT 3. And my personal experience is with ATE in a 3600 pound Mustang. I've never boiled it!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">other than that, don't change a thing. You will be gaining a lot of experience, and your experience will be the limiting factor, not your brakes or your tires or anything on your car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have to disagree with that big time. Especially after racing karts, you will not find it hard at all to outdrive your brakes and tires on a stock civic. At the very least I would flush the brake system with good fluid, and switch to a good track pad (I ran hawk hp plus in my civic). Personally I would change out the tires as well, but k103s will fair a lot better than your stock brakes will.
I have to disagree with that big time. Especially after racing karts, you will not find it hard at all to outdrive your brakes and tires on a stock civic. At the very least I would flush the brake system with good fluid, and switch to a good track pad (I ran hawk hp plus in my civic). Personally I would change out the tires as well, but k103s will fair a lot better than your stock brakes will.
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