How to get a stud out.
I figured I'd ask here because maybe you guys know more about this metal and tools I can use.
I took my exhaust manifold off and I was swapping out the studs that hold the manifold to the head when one of the studs broke. There is still a bulk of the stud sticking out maybe 1/4-1/2 inch and I was putting roughly 40ish pounds of pressure to twist it off before it broke so it IS stuck in there decently.
Transmission isn't on it yet so I can't start the engine and warm the head up any (possibly expanding the metal around it). It's a steel head also... The best thing I can think of to get it off would be to grind down two edges and try to twist it with some good vice grips. I don't think welding a nut on the end of it would do much good but I could be wrong.
What would you guys do?
I took my exhaust manifold off and I was swapping out the studs that hold the manifold to the head when one of the studs broke. There is still a bulk of the stud sticking out maybe 1/4-1/2 inch and I was putting roughly 40ish pounds of pressure to twist it off before it broke so it IS stuck in there decently.
Transmission isn't on it yet so I can't start the engine and warm the head up any (possibly expanding the metal around it). It's a steel head also... The best thing I can think of to get it off would be to grind down two edges and try to twist it with some good vice grips. I don't think welding a nut on the end of it would do much good but I could be wrong.
What would you guys do?
yea easy outs are pretty hit and miss. i've had one work on an exhaust mani stud BARELY. The rest of the times i used them they just made my problem 100x worse. Also if they break, they are very very hard. have fun drilling it out. ;\
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Like Eddie said..The easiest way by far is to clean the stub thoroughly, weld a nut of the same id onto the stub. The heat from the weld will help loosen it also. We also use pb blaster, soaking a day or two before if you have that kind of time. Good luck
Id drill a small hole in the center of it pretty deep to help relieve some of the pressure off of the stud. Then weld a rod or another nut to it and use lots of penetrating oil and it should hopefully come out. Another way I dont know if this would work or not, but use a small torch and heat around the stud then immediatly use a piece of dry ice and apply it against the stud only and see if that would help it come out. Anyways best of luck I hate broken bolts, if all else fails just take it to a machine shop they would probably do it for a few bucks.
small turbo socket might work. depending if the head of it is flat or not.
find some bg penetrating oil. **** puts pb blaster to shame. my choice of use at work atleast hasnt let me down yet
find some bg penetrating oil. **** puts pb blaster to shame. my choice of use at work atleast hasnt let me down yet
weld a nut to it. The heat from welding will make the stud expand, breaking the rust seal(or if an alum head, the oxidation seal) then spray liberally with PB blaster. Let it cool. Now, take a torch and head the head around the stud, but not the stud itself. Spray PB onto the stud, and twist using the welded on nut.
It should come right out.
BTDT, waaaay too many times.
Next idea, I usually drill a very small hole in the middle of the stud with a reverse drill bit. I then use larger and larger reverse drill bits. Usually this will take it out.
Last ditch effort, I have a matco set of "easy out" type things that resemble punches. You put them into the drill hole, hammer them in, and twist to remove. These are MUCH higher quality than the normal easy out junk you'd get at harbor frieght or autozone though. I've not broken one before, where as the HF or autozone ones almost always break.
Good luck!
It should come right out.
BTDT, waaaay too many times.
Next idea, I usually drill a very small hole in the middle of the stud with a reverse drill bit. I then use larger and larger reverse drill bits. Usually this will take it out.
Last ditch effort, I have a matco set of "easy out" type things that resemble punches. You put them into the drill hole, hammer them in, and twist to remove. These are MUCH higher quality than the normal easy out junk you'd get at harbor frieght or autozone though. I've not broken one before, where as the HF or autozone ones almost always break.
Good luck!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboMiata »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">weld a nut to it. The heat from welding will make the stud expand, breaking the rust seal(or if an alum head, the oxidation seal) then spray liberally with PB blaster. Let it cool. Now, take a torch and head the head around the stud, but not the stud itself. Spray PB onto the stud, and twist using the welded on nut.
It should come right out.
BTDT, waaaay too many times.
Next idea, I usually drill a very small hole in the middle of the stud with a reverse drill bit. I then use larger and larger reverse drill bits. Usually this will take it out.
Last ditch effort, I have a matco set of "easy out" type things that resemble punches. You put them into the drill hole, hammer them in, and twist to remove. These are MUCH higher quality than the normal easy out junk you'd get at harbor frieght or autozone though. I've not broken one before, where as the HF or autozone ones almost always break.
Good luck!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
excellent advice here from TurboMiata
99% of the times ive encountered this in a steel head the welding a nut to the end of it works the first time, but as stated above try the other methods if it doesnt
It should come right out.
BTDT, waaaay too many times.
Next idea, I usually drill a very small hole in the middle of the stud with a reverse drill bit. I then use larger and larger reverse drill bits. Usually this will take it out.
Last ditch effort, I have a matco set of "easy out" type things that resemble punches. You put them into the drill hole, hammer them in, and twist to remove. These are MUCH higher quality than the normal easy out junk you'd get at harbor frieght or autozone though. I've not broken one before, where as the HF or autozone ones almost always break.
Good luck!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
excellent advice here from TurboMiata
99% of the times ive encountered this in a steel head the welding a nut to the end of it works the first time, but as stated above try the other methods if it doesnt
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Corksil
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I've NEVER had them work, they always break and it ends up being 20x more of a pain in the ***.


