So I was at an autox more than 2 hours away from home and on the way there I hit a fair good size pot hole going 80 and my speedometer stopped working, but everything else on the car worked perfectly fine. I hoped it was a simple loose connection and went on w/ the autox. Then right after my 1st fun run, the tach stopped working and then the radio cut out and the car sputtered and died. It did this after two jump offs as well. I got a tow to an advanced auto and the cels I have are for the IACV, the VSS and the O2 sensor. The VSS, I assume is from the bump and we took it out and the gears are fine, so I guess its just broken. The IACV I assume is broken, since I haven't had any problems in the 2 few weeks I've owned the car. The O2 sensor is from my test pipe, but I have a defouler and have driven 200+ miles w/out it showing a cel. My only concern is that since its vertical, the top of the sensor is rubbing against the underbody. Now, it seems as though the car also can't hold a charge, so it might be from a 02 wire thats exposed from rubbing. The car is at a honda dealership in the town and will be looked at asap. ANYONE HAVE ANY THOUGHTS ON THIS AND ANY POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS OR HELPFUL ADVICE? I would REALLY APPRECIATE IT!

 

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your o2 sensor wire is grounding out. you probably blew your alternator fuse and thats why your battery is not charging.

 

Most likely it's a bad ground.

The reason it probably stopped was the ground to the igniter was disconnected.

Check to make sure you're getting a spark - you probably aren't. Check your grounds, it's probably that.

The VSS uses a different harness than the O2 sensor which uses a different harness than the IACV.

So I doubt it's a short.

Was the O2 sensor for the heater or the O2 sensor itself?

If you're getting a good spark, obviously, check to see if ur fuel injectors are getting powered - if they are, check to see if ur getting fuel.

 

I bet your tranny ground could be part of the issue- take some 100 grit sand paper and go through- take off the 10mm bolts for the vc adn the chassis and clean it all up

then the water housing clean it up good

then on the tranny to chassis

- on a different note, do you go to clemson?

 

Check the No. 15 fuse (7.5A) and other fuses, and also the wiring for the O2.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. Syndacate iirc, the read out on the hook up at advanced auto said it was the 02 heater. I just told the guy I wasnt sure why I would have a problem w/ it besides the fact that the top of the 02 sensor where the wires come out rub against the underbody b/c the test pipe is setup for the 02 bung at the very top and basically the extra height that the defouler adds makes it way to tall to completely clear the underbody. I'm assuming that the wire has just be rubbed raw and maybe thats where I'm loosing all the power out of the system since I dont have enough power to restart the car after it dies. Also, so you guys think the vss is a result of a blown fuse after i hit the pot hole? What you guys think about the iacv? Anyone know what I could expect to pay if it were a new one?


Modified by rhennin at 12:58 PM 8/12/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhennin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all the help guys. Syndacate iirc, the read out on the hook up at advanced auto said it was the 02 heater. I just told the guy I wasnt sure why I would have a problem w/ it besides the fact that the top of the 02 sensor where the wires come out rub against the underbody b/c the test pipe is setup for the 02 bung at the very top and basically the extra height that the defouler adds makes it way to tall to completely clear the underbody. I'm assuming that the wire has just be rubbed raw and maybe thats where I'm loosing all the power out of the system since I dont have enough power to restart the car after it dies. Also, so you guys think the vss is a result of a blown fuse after i hit the pot hole? What you guys think about the iacv? Anyone know what I could expect to pay if it were a new one?


Modified by rhennin at 12:58 PM 8/12/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the same problem, the O2 sensor (secondary) was grounding out (cut wire) to the chassis - then it pops fuse #15 (2nd row, 5th column, a 7.5a fuse between two other 7.5a fuses. - that one stupid fuse controls both O2 sensor heaters, the evap purge system, the VSS, and the alternator switch.

Check the harness going to your O2 sensors, make sure its' not cracked, if that fuse blows, your speedo won't work, and your alternator switch won't work (so it won't charge your battery).

Chances are you hit a pot-hole or something and it slammed the wire into the pot-metal hard enough to the point where it cracked the wire - if it's grounding out there, it's gonna pop the fuse - I'm just surprised you're not throwing a #20 CEL (Electronic load detector).

Check that fuse.

 

Aight man, thanks alot for the help. The car is currently 2 hrs away from me right now since I had to get a ride home and left it at the nearest honda dealership. Ohh, also, so you think I should be able to replace the fuse and maybe just unplug the secondary 02 temporarily until I can get the car back to my garage? If it will run w/out the secondary temporarily then where exactly is the disconnect, b/c it seems as though it has to be under the dash since I can't see it even when I pull all the slack out of the 02 wire. The only other question that remains is what is the deal w/ my iacv. The guy at advanced had said that from what he knows sometimes they will just go out all the sudden etc.. but honestly I have no idea. I know roughly what it does and where it is but havent had to do any work w/ one before.

 

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Found out from the dealer that the alternator is only pulling 6 amps and they said that the fuse was bad. I'm pretty sure it ended up being the one that you guys suggested it was so good call on that. They did say that there were no exposed wires and I'm happy about that, but still wondering how the hell the fuse went out. I'm assuming just from the alternator, but I thought the fuse would only go out if it were overloaded w/ power. Between the diagnostic test (which I already did at advanced auto, but the made me get it at the dealership) the new battery, overnight charge, the alternator and install etc.. They are charging me 500. Yea its a shitload of money, and I'm not happy about it but remember the title of the tread, so I'm not in much of a position to negotiate. I am though going to see how much the replacement cost for an alt at other dealerships and online and if its a big diff. Then I'll talk to the dealer doing the work and see if I can get em down. I'm also going to get the old alt. just to double check them and test it to make sure it is like they say it is. Any thoughts? Anyone know of a place online where I can check oem replacement part cost. And I mean a place that has cost of a whole assembly, cuz I keep finding places that only seem to have individual part costs and not say the whole alt. assembly cost. Thanks for all the help guys.

vestalfootball72, I do go to clemson. You down around here any or?

 

Ok guys so I need a few electrical and or honda experts to weigh in on this.

The shop called today and said after they replaced the alt. and drove it, the fuse still went out. I told them to make sure that they check the O2 harness and wires to make sure that there wasn't an exposed wire or short in them, b/c someone I talked to on honda-tech had a very similar problem w/ the same symptoms. They called me back and said that it turns out that the secondary O2 sensor was shorting out b/c it was rubbing against the underside of the car. Now, you should also note that they are under the impression that the previous owner put on the test pipe and defouler which was in the wrong position which caused the rubbing issue. It was actually you know who that did it and didnt think there would be any issues in the short term. I did specifically ask them yesterday when they first started looking at the car to check for any exposed wires or issues w/ the O2 harness as I did today and they said they checked it and there werent any problems. So now I'm kinda wondering and am really doubting whether the alternator really needed to be replaced since from what I figure, the fuse has to be in between the O2 sensor and the alt. Therefore, it is very very unlikely that the alternator could have been effected by the short caused by the O2. I do however need to know for sure if the fuse is in between the O2 and the alt. If this is true, then what exactly do you guys think I should do?

 

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