Honda s2000-RPM cutting at around 7800...???
I'm hoping to get some help here.
Here is what I have:
02 s2000 with turbo, e-manage and pressure sensor.
The issue is that when I run anything above 16psi, the rpm gets cut at arund 7800-8300 or so. It doesn't misfire or anything. It just gets cut period, as if I had a rev limiter set but I don't. The e-manage (blue) doesnt have a rev limiter function anyway. When I run lower boost, the motor is happy to 9K. I along w/ another savvy friend went over the whole car:
replaced greddy sensor, emanage, stock ecu, map sensor. fuel pump
test for continuity of the map sensor wires.
Now, in the boost cut table we have set 2.95 volts across the whole rpm range which was this way since last year.
Now, what I have found is that if while idling, if I zero out the boost cut table, the car will get into a bad idle and set a DTC code - P0107 which says- MAP/BARO circuit low input.
Is this normal behavior? Why is this happening? Is this correlated to the rpm cut when I go over 15 psi?
I thought that the boost cut table only came into play once you are in boost so the stock ECU doesnt see a signal above of whatever you put in this table.
From last year to this year I have not changed anything on this car. When I went to dyno on 18psi that's when I found out that this issue now exists.
Any help is appreciated, thanks
Modified by y2k2s2k at 9:07 AM 8/6/2007
Here is what I have:
02 s2000 with turbo, e-manage and pressure sensor.
The issue is that when I run anything above 16psi, the rpm gets cut at arund 7800-8300 or so. It doesn't misfire or anything. It just gets cut period, as if I had a rev limiter set but I don't. The e-manage (blue) doesnt have a rev limiter function anyway. When I run lower boost, the motor is happy to 9K. I along w/ another savvy friend went over the whole car:
replaced greddy sensor, emanage, stock ecu, map sensor. fuel pump
test for continuity of the map sensor wires.
Now, in the boost cut table we have set 2.95 volts across the whole rpm range which was this way since last year.
Now, what I have found is that if while idling, if I zero out the boost cut table, the car will get into a bad idle and set a DTC code - P0107 which says- MAP/BARO circuit low input.
Is this normal behavior? Why is this happening? Is this correlated to the rpm cut when I go over 15 psi?
I thought that the boost cut table only came into play once you are in boost so the stock ECU doesnt see a signal above of whatever you put in this table.
From last year to this year I have not changed anything on this car. When I went to dyno on 18psi that's when I found out that this issue now exists.
Any help is appreciated, thanks
Modified by y2k2s2k at 9:07 AM 8/6/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y2k2s2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I run lower boost, the motor is happy to 9K
</TD></TR></TABLE>
try lowering your spark plug gap. maybe the spark is being blown out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
try lowering your spark plug gap. maybe the spark is being blown out.
I did try to lower the gap.
i actually went from 20K to 30K on the gap but no good.
Amazingly though, the spark doesnt get blown out at 30K
Any other ideas?
could the stock ECU be seeing boost? But yet, there are no check engine lights.
i actually went from 20K to 30K on the gap but no good.
Amazingly though, the spark doesnt get blown out at 30K
Any other ideas?
could the stock ECU be seeing boost? But yet, there are no check engine lights.
I did try to lower the gap.
i actually went from 20K to 30K on the gap but no good.
Amazingly though, the spark doesnt get blown out at 30K
Any other ideas?
could the stock ECU be seeing boost? But yet, there are no check engine lights.
i actually went from 20K to 30K on the gap but no good.
Amazingly though, the spark doesnt get blown out at 30K
Any other ideas?
could the stock ECU be seeing boost? But yet, there are no check engine lights.
two things usually happen, most common problems, when u start cutting out on top.
1.) your ignition is misfiring
2.) your running really rich
i usually find if u go past 10.7...motor starts to crackle and choke...
do u an afr gauge to monitor? if you dont, u really need to grab one..
Modified by iBrandon at 7:54 AM 8/8/2007
1.) your ignition is misfiring
2.) your running really rich
i usually find if u go past 10.7...motor starts to crackle and choke...
do u an afr gauge to monitor? if you dont, u really need to grab one..
Modified by iBrandon at 7:54 AM 8/8/2007
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As far as temp plugs, i'm running 2 steps colder.
I have a wideband A/F gauge and it's right around 11. 7 -12
The motor does not crackle or anything. this is the weird thing. It's not as if it's misfiring when the air charge blows out the spark. The motor has no indication of any sort when it cuts out. It pulls hard with no stuttering until it cuts out.
The telltale signs aren't there. Myself with another very knowleadge friend looked over the whole car and it's puzzling.
I have a wideband A/F gauge and it's right around 11. 7 -12
The motor does not crackle or anything. this is the weird thing. It's not as if it's misfiring when the air charge blows out the spark. The motor has no indication of any sort when it cuts out. It pulls hard with no stuttering until it cuts out.
The telltale signs aren't there. Myself with another very knowleadge friend looked over the whole car and it's puzzling.
I did try to lower the gap.
i actually went from 20K to 30K on the gap but no good.
Amazingly though, the spark doesnt get blown out at 30K
Any other ideas?
could the stock ECU be seeing boost? But yet, there are no check engine lights.
i actually went from 20K to 30K on the gap but no good.
Amazingly though, the spark doesnt get blown out at 30K
Any other ideas?
could the stock ECU be seeing boost? But yet, there are no check engine lights.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y2k2s2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did try to lower the gap.
i actually went from 20K to 30K on the gap but no good.
Amazingly though, the spark doesnt get blown out at 30K
Any other ideas?
could the stock ECU be seeing boost? But yet, there are no check engine lights.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if I continue to hold the gas pedal for an extra 6 -7 seconds, the boost gauge reads 18psi and the A/F reads 12.2 but the engine is just going no where. the engine is spinning though...
i actually went from 20K to 30K on the gap but no good.
Amazingly though, the spark doesnt get blown out at 30K
Any other ideas?
could the stock ECU be seeing boost? But yet, there are no check engine lights.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if I continue to hold the gas pedal for an extra 6 -7 seconds, the boost gauge reads 18psi and the A/F reads 12.2 but the engine is just going no where. the engine is spinning though...
I did try to lower the gap.
i actually went from 20K to 30K on the gap but no good.
Amazingly though, the spark doesnt get blown out at 30K
Any other ideas?
could the stock ECU be seeing boost? But yet, there are no check engine lights.
i actually went from 20K to 30K on the gap but no good.
Amazingly though, the spark doesnt get blown out at 30K
Any other ideas?
could the stock ECU be seeing boost? But yet, there are no check engine lights.
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