Remote mounted turbo setup question...
I'd like to first say, that I have no intentions of doing this on a honda.
I am building an inexpensive and effective setup for my 4.0l 99 jeep cherokee, but can't find any good info on an oil pump return line setup. What are some electric oil pumps that will work, and more importantly...be 100% reliable?
I'll be using a T3 60-1, and hoping to break 300ft/lbs.
I am building an inexpensive and effective setup for my 4.0l 99 jeep cherokee, but can't find any good info on an oil pump return line setup. What are some electric oil pumps that will work, and more importantly...be 100% reliable?
I'll be using a T3 60-1, and hoping to break 300ft/lbs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check out the "kings" of remote setups, ststurbo.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
Beat you too it. However, I can't find anything on their website about the oil pumps. If you have found something, please link me! I'll probubly just email them, but more than likely they are going to want a rediculous amount of $ for a simple pump I can find else where.
Beat you too it. However, I can't find anything on their website about the oil pumps. If you have found something, please link me! I'll probubly just email them, but more than likely they are going to want a rediculous amount of $ for a simple pump I can find else where.
You want to use a high quality pump because the old STS kits had reliability problems so they switched to a new style pump. Don't remember the brand, should be able to figure it out from the pictures on the site. Here is one that should work well and is less than 200
http://racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm
The STS kits also have a pressure switch so it lights up a light if the pump drops pressure
http://racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm
The STS kits also have a pressure switch so it lights up a light if the pump drops pressure
Right on. Thanks for the info man. I was already planning on a pressure light setup too
Pegasus racing has a setup with a bright LED for pretty cheap that will work for pressures below 5psi.
Pegasus racing has a setup with a bright LED for pretty cheap that will work for pressures below 5psi.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You want to use a high quality pump because the old STS kits had reliability problems so they switched to a new style pump. Don't remember the brand, should be able to figure it out from the pictures on the site. Here is one that should work well and is less than 200
http://racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm
The STS kits also have a pressure switch so it lights up a light if the pump drops pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just emailed them, so i'll post up what they say. I'm curious if there is anything different with their pump VS one like above.
http://racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm
The STS kits also have a pressure switch so it lights up a light if the pump drops pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just emailed them, so i'll post up what they say. I'm curious if there is anything different with their pump VS one like above.
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I'll pester a friend who had a oil return pump on his car to post here. It was some $250-300 dollar unit if I recall correctly, and required viton seals to deal with exposure to oil.
i still have the damn loud *** Tilton oil return pump on my friggin car, I purchased it from a race car supply shop.
It's the 12v electric oil pump that they use on circle track cars to cool the rear differential. It has a viton diaphram so the heat wont melt it.
you can call Jegs and Summit to order it but they have one hell of a back order time.
you can use any shop like this http://www.1speedway.com/Oil_Pumps.htm
I used a place out of Conncord, N.C. since i like to support local shops but they don't have a website to my knowledge.
I used a small vented approx. 1 litre stainless steel catch can to set under the turbo.
Then you have to use some special high temp almost 10 bucks a foot high temp oil return line aswell.
The cool part about their pumps is they are re-buildable. I replace my 25 buck viton diaphram seal after every road trip.
I'm selling my set up, I even have the entire wiring system for it (made it out of a HID fog light wiring harness) That includes an on/off switch, relay and fuse.
The pump alone was some 215 bucks new. I'm selling the whole system for 100 bucks. I'm tired of my Love Fab Mini Me EQ manifold that requires me to use that loud *** pump. It would be ok to use if I had room under the hood of the Sol to mount it with a proper rubber mount.
So i'm ditching the love fab for a ram horn/side winder/ whatever tubular style good flowing manifold i can find that will allow me to run a turbo with a gravity return rather than the pain in the *** pump.
oh and this is on a .57 trim t3/t4 with 300 whp
It's the 12v electric oil pump that they use on circle track cars to cool the rear differential. It has a viton diaphram so the heat wont melt it.
you can call Jegs and Summit to order it but they have one hell of a back order time.
you can use any shop like this http://www.1speedway.com/Oil_Pumps.htm
I used a place out of Conncord, N.C. since i like to support local shops but they don't have a website to my knowledge.
I used a small vented approx. 1 litre stainless steel catch can to set under the turbo.
Then you have to use some special high temp almost 10 bucks a foot high temp oil return line aswell.
The cool part about their pumps is they are re-buildable. I replace my 25 buck viton diaphram seal after every road trip.
I'm selling my set up, I even have the entire wiring system for it (made it out of a HID fog light wiring harness) That includes an on/off switch, relay and fuse.
The pump alone was some 215 bucks new. I'm selling the whole system for 100 bucks. I'm tired of my Love Fab Mini Me EQ manifold that requires me to use that loud *** pump. It would be ok to use if I had room under the hood of the Sol to mount it with a proper rubber mount.
So i'm ditching the love fab for a ram horn/side winder/ whatever tubular style good flowing manifold i can find that will allow me to run a turbo with a gravity return rather than the pain in the *** pump.
oh and this is on a .57 trim t3/t4 with 300 whp
IIRC, the pump can be around $70 - there was a "I turbo'd my pathfinder, y0!" thread stickied on homemadeturbo.com for a while, he used a T3 60trim mounted just past his seat (ground clearance FTW), and when I searched for the pump he listed, it was around $70 on ebay. Since its oil thats being pumped, it doesn't matter if it runs 'dry' during idle, its unlikely all the lubing motor oil would be removed, so you don't have to get some $500 specialty pump.
BTW Viton is rated for mostly ALL hydrocarbons (motor/hydralic oils/gasoline), so I don't know why you are replacing that seal like its paper
$215 for a high-maintenace pump seems like $215 wasted IMO. If you wanted highflow and heat/chemical resistance (or just the later), you could have got an Iwaki scientific/industrial pump - virtually nothing can damage their seals/housings, and run with a supported shaft that will give thousands and thousands of hours of continous use.
BTW Viton is rated for mostly ALL hydrocarbons (motor/hydralic oils/gasoline), so I don't know why you are replacing that seal like its paper
$215 for a high-maintenace pump seems like $215 wasted IMO. If you wanted highflow and heat/chemical resistance (or just the later), you could have got an Iwaki scientific/industrial pump - virtually nothing can damage their seals/housings, and run with a supported shaft that will give thousands and thousands of hours of continous use.
i saw that pump on HMT but it was a farm or consumer use pump and it was a pump for either pumping out heating oil for a furnace or changing oil in a car and it's temp rating was not nearly what it needs to be for using on a turbo oil return.
Granted on average the oil is at the same temp as the water @ 190 but coming right out of the turbo which can glow cherry red under certian hard driving conditions you need that extra insurance.
I replace my seals on a regular basis because of just that, insurance. A 25 buck seal is cheaper than a 200 buck turbo rebuild because my diaprams got weak and stopped returning my oil and i blew out the seals.
The next thing you gotta consider is the oil flow. With my reducer i'm gettting 35-45 psi at WOT before VTEC hits. This means that when i'm crusing at 70mph with an S4C tranny at aprox 4,000 rpms i need the oil pump to keep up with my oil feed.
The 215 buck pump is most certianly not a waste of money. It's made specifilcy for high temp oil applications and it's designed to be re-buildable and durable.
If paying extra for better quality is a waste of money then SS Auto would be a monoply on the FI scene.
point being, i've had this pump on my car for @ 2 years with no problems. I consider changing the diaphram to be pre-maintiance. The car isn't a daily driver but i do take it on vacations which usually require it to be on the highway for 6+hrs one way 2-4 times a year.
Do i consider it a waste of money, no, because it's never left me stranded on the side of the road.
I spent over 4 weeks researching electric pumps and talking to the local circle track guys when I was putting together this kit. I assure you that the cheap 70 buck pump may work for a bit but for reliablity it will not work, otherwise i would have purchased a 70 buck pump. I purchased the best pump i could find because didn't want to put the life of a fully built engine in the hands of a cheap pump some kid on HMT used that isn't intended to see over 100deg temps.
Granted on average the oil is at the same temp as the water @ 190 but coming right out of the turbo which can glow cherry red under certian hard driving conditions you need that extra insurance.
I replace my seals on a regular basis because of just that, insurance. A 25 buck seal is cheaper than a 200 buck turbo rebuild because my diaprams got weak and stopped returning my oil and i blew out the seals.
The next thing you gotta consider is the oil flow. With my reducer i'm gettting 35-45 psi at WOT before VTEC hits. This means that when i'm crusing at 70mph with an S4C tranny at aprox 4,000 rpms i need the oil pump to keep up with my oil feed.
The 215 buck pump is most certianly not a waste of money. It's made specifilcy for high temp oil applications and it's designed to be re-buildable and durable.
If paying extra for better quality is a waste of money then SS Auto would be a monoply on the FI scene.
point being, i've had this pump on my car for @ 2 years with no problems. I consider changing the diaphram to be pre-maintiance. The car isn't a daily driver but i do take it on vacations which usually require it to be on the highway for 6+hrs one way 2-4 times a year.
Do i consider it a waste of money, no, because it's never left me stranded on the side of the road.
I spent over 4 weeks researching electric pumps and talking to the local circle track guys when I was putting together this kit. I assure you that the cheap 70 buck pump may work for a bit but for reliablity it will not work, otherwise i would have purchased a 70 buck pump. I purchased the best pump i could find because didn't want to put the life of a fully built engine in the hands of a cheap pump some kid on HMT used that isn't intended to see over 100deg temps.
HiProfile, meet dohcdelsol93. If he were more of a tech poster than a tech lurker the two of you would likely be best friends colluding on most everything.
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