1) When you change your pads and no severe scaring of the rotors seen, can you eliminate the process of turning (cutting) rotors? Or, should you turn rotors everytime new pads are installed.

2) I've noticed turning rotors on the vehicle tends to brake better than turning rotors off the car. Anybody else experience this?

 

You should machine them whenever you replace the pads. That way the new pads will have a fresh, even surface to mate to. Ever run your finger on a rotor that has a bunch of miles on it, and although it looks smooth it almost feels like a vinyl record surface? Thats the type of surface your pads will end up with. I think new pads should have new surface (about 99% of the pros do too). They will wear/seat better and won't be as prone to noise. New pads on old rotors can be noisy (and old pads on old rotors). Yes, Backyard Barney will say you don't need to or shouldn't because machining will take material off and make them a LITTLE thinner, but that doesn't mean you should listen to him.

Always measure the rotor thickness and parallelism before machining. That way you will know if you have to replace the rotors instead.

I haven't felt any difference between on car and off car refinishing. I only use the on car lathe on the older style rotor (I guess you could call it hub over rotor?). What do you mean by better braking?

 

You can buy a set of drilled and slotted rotors for the front on EBAY for about $80. Not that much more than having the stock one turned on the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1Moon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can buy a set of drilled and slotted rotors for the front on EBAY for about $80. Not that much more than having the stock one turned on the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not much? 4 times as much. Murray's turns them for 10 apiece.

 

I'd stay away from those drilled and slotted rotors on eBay anyway

 

well an on car break leave is hell expensive machine. but they are suppose to be able to confiscate for the in balances in the knuckle. I guess you mean a steady, or smoother breaking. realistically yes you can get away with out turning the rotors, but it will were out your new pads faster.

 

It cost $40 a wheel to have them turned where I live, do the math and it's not much more. If you need me to add it up for you I will. Just ask, I'm a nice guy. And by the way what's wrong with drilled and slotted rotors from EBAY. I got a set about 3 years ago and I've never had a problem with them. It's amazing how many car people are scared of EBAY, if your smart enough to work on your own car, then you should be smart enough to know what's good stuff and what's bad stuff. If it's going to help you sleep at night then maybe it's best to spend 5 times more on stuff that's not going to make anymore horsepower than the cheaper stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1Moon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It cost $40 a wheel to have them turned where I live, do the math and it's not much more. If you need me to add it up for you I will. Just ask, I'm a nice guy. And by the way what's wrong with drilled and slotted rotors from EBAY. I got a set about 3 years ago and I've never had a problem with them. It's amazing how many car people are scared of EBAY, if your smart enough to work on your own car, then you should be smart enough to know what's good stuff and what's bad stuff. If it's going to help you sleep at night then maybe it's best to spend 5 times more on stuff that's not going to make anymore horsepower than the cheaper stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cause those aren't properly drilled and crack.
ALso, unless you track your brakes dont get hot enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1Moon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It cost $40 a wheel to have them turned where I live, do the math and it's not much more. If you need me to add it up for you I will. Just ask, I'm a nice guy. And by the way what's wrong with drilled and slotted rotors from EBAY. I got a set about 3 years ago and I've never had a problem with them. It's amazing how many car people are scared of EBAY, if your smart enough to work on your own car, then you should be smart enough to know what's good stuff and what's bad stuff. If it's going to help you sleep at night then maybe it's best to spend 5 times more on stuff that's not going to make anymore horsepower than the cheaper stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, calm down, no need to get so worked up

I assume the adding comment wasn't towards me so I'll disregard that.

like BB said, most of those rotors aren't drilled properly and have a much greater tendency to crack.

I never said anything bad about eBay.

Just because someone knows how to do some things on there car doesn't mean they know what is a good part and what is a bad part.

What helps me sleep at night is buying parts that are proven to be good and reliable.

 

agreed with touring accord, and bruce that rotors not drilled properly are much more likely to crack. I do have brembo slotted and drilled rotors, and they do work great, even when I take it down to sandia speedway, no break fade at all. also I do get alot of parts from ebay, and yeah you got to be smart about what, and who you buy parts from there, but there are a lot of good things you can get.

 

If my rotors are still in spec and my car doesnt shake like a bitch then I just slap pads. I have never had any problems.

 

in my experience in shops majority of the time thats how it works.

 

My last Accord went 140k miles, and 12 years with the original rotors that were never turned. Never had a problem with them and only changed the pads twice. I don't plan on having the rotors turned on the 03 Accord either. I buy the pads from Honda, change them myself, and have brakes for another 70k miles for less than $100.