Will a b16a hold up to boost of about 6 to 8lbs with stock internals. Also will it be ok to boost it with the compression that it has? Some people said i should be fine if im only running about 8lbs at the most but if i were to do it it would be set a 6. Any help or suggestions.

Thanks

 

6-8 lbs can be a difference of about 50whp depending on the turbo you use.

whp should be a goal, not psi.

stock b16's can handle ~300whp on stock valvetrain.
with an upgraded valvetrain the bottom ends can withstand 400-600whp.

 

i dont know what i want my whp goal to be because I'm kinda new at the turbo stuff. So not sure how much hp i will gain with putting a setup on the motor. I jus know a little bit about it so jus try to ask question to get more knowledge about it. i think prolly the t3/t4 setup is prolly a good setup for a stock b16...i could be wrong jus that i see alot of those setups around. Unless you guys know of a better setup to use. This car is my daily and eventually after the boost will be purchasing another block to build. Anyting could happen right.

Thanks

 

You need to do a LOT more research before you dive in to a turbo setup. With the way it looks now you're going to end up with:

A) A blown motor
B) An unreliable car
c) A kit and numbers you don't like
d) something that's not fun to daily drive.

 

Well can you or anyone else point me in the direction that i need to go to find out information on boosted stock b16? That would help for starters.

Thanks for the help!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92 white eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well can you or anyone else point me in the direction that i need to go to find out information on boosted stock b16? That would help for starters.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try the forced induction forum?

 

yes the forced induction forum is your friend . anyways u would be fine for 8lb of boost but u have to get it tuned really good. dont forget that bc thats were alot of people go wrong. the just put a fmu and call it good u can use hondata or even run chrome program and u will be fine.

 

One thing... the bottom end will handle the 400whp for a time but dont be thinking it will hold forever! That is about 3 times the whp that the car comes with and yes the engine is build well but that is alot of power. Also you will only see those numbers on race gas. I know because i was young and stupid and made 325whp on a turbo b16 which only lasted for 9 months. to be safe on stock bottom end dont go over 15 psi and get water/meth injection if you want to make that power for any amount of time. 15 psi is about 250-275whp. The is no why a b16 bottom end will last very long at 600hp, the crank is the only thing that could be used at that level and thats pushing it. You will also need different drive shafts for anything above 250whp. 6-8psi is a good number to shoot for about 180-190 whp. also saying your looking at a t3/t4 is like saying you going to buy a blue car... there are many different types of t3/t4 turbos

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lucky4586 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also saying your looking at a t3/t4 is like saying you going to buy a blue car... there are many different types of t3/t4 turbos</TD></TR></TABLE>

har har second that..

anyway im running 8.5 lbs on a bonestock b16 now.. no motor problems tuned pretty rich on hondata (saftey first ladies)..

but yes.. whp goals are whats important.. for a stock b16 id aim for just over 200whp on 93.. things to keep in mind..

1 get good management.. hondata is great.. but not to many people tune it.. and its expensive.. aem is the obvious god .. but god aint cheap now is he.. chrome seems to be the choice that most people are goign with lately.. but i would find what any of your local tuners prefer first.. you might save 200 on the system but if you have to drive 3 hours every time u need a tune u might just shoot urself instead..
2 if you can buy as much of the stuff as you can piping tbolt clamps, silicon hoses, etc etc.. i pieced together a pretty nasty kit for way less than the price of a greddy kit.. and mine is so much cooler.. anyway..
3 keep in mind injector harness might have to change obd gens
4 set aside a lot of time cuz this always takes logner than you planned
5 pick up a wideband preboost.. will make your tune that much better.. dont want them to use a sniffer when tuning your stock motor..
6 this is going to be more expensive than you could imagine.. (remmeber other factors tune is about 500ish.. if ur not building your pipes.. welding costs money.. so does a tow truck if u expletive up haha)
7 run colder plugs than stock.. might want 8's during summer or 7's during winter to help with startups
8 if your base map sux ***** and u run rich as *** might need to pop the brake booster cable to get'er started then close it up after..
9 dont boost on a basemap please.. just not the greatest idea.. with a t3/t4 on a stock b16 you should be able to drive pretty much everywhere without any positive pressure.. so keep it in your pants until u get tuned

 

something that i have seen a few times in the shop is the brake fuild start to boil because there is to much heat under the hood and if you run it hard with alot of braking you will lose braking power. so go with a high temp "race" style fuild. turbo make alot of heat. flush everything and when you do it.heat wrap anything that may need it to protect it. its not a must but a good idea.

 

Thanks for all the help guys..really appreciate it. i now have a little more knowledge on the whole turbo thing.

Thanks

 

oh yeah ez go ten pounds