sensor/vtec problem
ok heres the story. i had a stock gsr with a stock intake mani in the hatch at first. everything worked great except for the o2 sensor which i knew about. vtec engaged smooth and everything. but when i decided to go with a blox intake manifold, i changed to ARP headstuds and a cometic head gasket (wouldnt have anything to do with it but whatever) I HAD TO EXTEND THE IAC VALVE wires so they would reach the new location.
NOW when im at idle, i slowly give it gas. once it reaches 1500 rpms it sounds like a little 2 step (honda rev) lol i check the codes and it still reads O2 and now it says IAC. but the iac valve is good because of when it was on the old manifold. also when i hit vtec in 2nd-5th gear, once it crosses over u hear it, but it delays a little bit and doesnt pull till about 6500. and also sputters. can someone PLEASE help me out!
NOW when im at idle, i slowly give it gas. once it reaches 1500 rpms it sounds like a little 2 step (honda rev) lol i check the codes and it still reads O2 and now it says IAC. but the iac valve is good because of when it was on the old manifold. also when i hit vtec in 2nd-5th gear, once it crosses over u hear it, but it delays a little bit and doesnt pull till about 6500. and also sputters. can someone PLEASE help me out!
also i just put in a new map sensor and o2 from the junkyard. when i drive the car it drives smooth (still doing the 2 step at 1500rpm) when i hit vtec it pulls nasty. but after like 3 times it goes back to sputtering/hesitating
A junkyard MAP that is, well, junk could cause sputtering and screw up the fuel curve. If you did some wiring with the IACV and are now getting a code, check your wiring. At the least use a butt connector, but I would definitely solder. The twist and tape method is never good/reliable. Did you clear the codes before starting up the car after replacing the 02 sensor? If not you could still have the code. I wouldn't use a junkyard 02 either.
yeah i know more than anyone that using junkyard parts are no good. but hey they were free. nah i didint reset the codes yet. yeah the iacv is connected by butt connectors. i would solder but its such a bitch to get to behind the intake mani. because the wire was cut somehow at the bottom right where it connects to the main harness. someone said that my TPS could be going bad
I would still check the IACV wiring. It has happened to me a few times where I've crimped the wire in a butt connector and feels tight, but it is actually tight around some of the insulation and not the actual wire. If I have to use a butt connector I try to squeeze each end twice just to be sure.
TPS is a definite possibility, but you can be sure by doing the TPS tests in the Helms manual. Those tests are usually easier with the throttle body off of the intake manifold (but still plugged into the harness of course).
TPS is a definite possibility, but you can be sure by doing the TPS tests in the Helms manual. Those tests are usually easier with the throttle body off of the intake manifold (but still plugged into the harness of course).
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ep3_frk_out
Acura RSX DC5 & Honda Civic EP3
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Dec 1, 2011 01:17 AM



