I will be installing new OEM reman calipers (i have one thats all jacked up so im replacing them both), along with new rotors, and SS lines on my EJ8 this weekend and just wanted to know if there are any little tricks i or things i need to be aware of? It seems pretty traight forward but wanted to check with you guys.

Thanks in advance

 

Should be quick and easy. Nothing special to do.

 

If your rotors still have the 2 philips head screws in them you will need to use an impact hammer screw driver to get them out. If you try to use a regular screw drive to take them out you will strip the heads out

 

Cool thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your rotors still have the 2 philips head screws in them you will need to use an impact hammer screw driver to get them out. If you try to use a regular screw drive to take them out you will strip the heads out</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 i f'd it up on my old car and it was hell to take it out after stripped (before i never heard of ez outs)

 

I dont have air tools...but i have a hammer drill that should work (i hope), i will buy some easy outs just in case.

 

Have a lot of extra Brake Fluid on hand, and don't forget the "Bench Bleed" of the BMC if you have weird Pedal Behavior after bleeding the corners (in this order: RR, FL, RL, FR).

Other than that, keep a connection to H-T open, and take lots of pics!! Best of luck!
JasonGhostz

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonGhostz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have a lot of extra Brake Fluid on hand, and don't forget the "Bench Bleed" of the BMC if you have weird Pedal Behavior after bleeding the corners (in this order: RR, FL, RL, FR).

Other than that, keep a connection to H-T open, and take lots of pics!! Best of luck!
JasonGhostz</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thakns for the info, i have 2 large bottles of Castrol dot 4, and 5 smaller bottles of Motul 5.1, so i think i have plenty of brake fluid on hand. Is bench bleeding necessary for this project or is this if i bleed the resivoir dry? if necessary any tricks to it? As for the pics i am assuming they are for referrence? if so i have found it best to do one side at a time when working on brakes or suspension...that way you can always look at the other side for a reference.

 

I'm not sure on the Brake Fluid types, other than Honda reccommending DOT3. In any case, just be sure to keep it handy. Brake Fluid is a great thirst quencher, too!

Bench Bleeding *might* be necessary. Most do well enough to only do the corners. It's just that there are a great many people who experience problems with their hydraulics after doing so, but neglect to purge any air that may've gotten into the BMC (somehow). You can help prevent this by keeping your disconnected Brake Hoses raised (so air bubbles will tend to travel to the end, instead of deeper into your hydraulic system).

on doing one corner at a time (as far as bleeding is concerned). Time & Space might deem otherwise.

For the pics, it's always for reference. That's all pictures are anyway, right? References to moments in Reality? I digress... I acknowledge many may use pictures as a mode of expression or to provoke thought, but are they not, essentially, still references...??

It'll help journal what your car looked like, and it will help the Forum identify any problems if/when you run into them. This will slow down your work, but will also help keep your progress organized.

It'd take me a while to find some good bench bleeding posts, so I'll leave that to you...
Hope this helps!
JasonGhostz

 

Thanks man, i read through all the bench bleeding posts and have got the general idea. I will have the girlfriend take the pictures for reference so as not to get disctracted or held up with cleaning my hands off enough to use my camera (its not cheap so i avoid contact with grease as much as possible). Keeping the hoses elevated is a good idea just one more thing i can use zip ties for (i love zip ties) let the project begin...normaly i would wait till the weekend but i find that all the autoparts stores are closed by the time i find a problem when i do that so i will start today.

 

One last question...BMC lid open or closed when bleeding the brakes?

 

pump the pedal up with it closed... open, top off, replace cap, proceed to bleed.

 

don't forget to bleed the brake system of air.

 

that's kind of the idea

 

Use anti-Seize on bolts, It will make future work easier.

 

Got it all finished last night...everything went good (except for the bleeder screw being stripped on the reman caliper) fortunately i found it in time to get back to the auto store and swap it out. Then i dicked around with the drums in the rear (they SUCK). Bled the system twice in the order directed above. I have a firm pedal so i am assuming i have no air in the lines...only thig i have left to do i some minor adjusting of the ebake and im set.

Thanks for all the help everyone

 

Also, what SS brake lines did you get?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeDawg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, what SS brake lines did you get?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Goodridge...

http://inlinefour.com/goodbrallin.html - they have them at Tirerack.com for cheaper so i had them price match.