im thinkin about gettin the zex kit, what would i have to do to my f22a to prep it for a 50 shot? and do you guys think that is too much for a stock f22? well let me know.

 

You have to retard the timing as well as get some colder plugs. You might want to also get a fuel pressure regulator and maybe an upgraded fuel pump. Other than that make sure your engine is in good running condition then spray away...have fun

 

as far as being to much for the f22 block. NO WAY !! The motor is pretty strong . It will take a beaten . Just make sure the tune is on the money .

 

are you going with a wet or dry kit? 55HP shot will be fine as long as you follow the recomended changes. if you search you will find more info on this. IIRC a few members has gotten away with 55HP shots without retarding timing, but did step to a lower temp plug and step up the octane in their gas. as far as a new fuel pump and FPR i think thats overkill for 55shots.

 

Most nitrous kits require you to retard the timing about 3-4 degrees. The factor spec on the car is 13-17 degrees advance if I remember correctly. To check your timing, you need a timing light. Above the engine code plate there is a plastic plug that covers the timing sight.

As for preping the motor, check your compression, should be a minimum of 150PSI. Note that when you check compression, you need to open the throttle all the way open when someone cranks it over.

Make sure the fuel pump is working and flowing at peak capacity. Nitrous is an oxidizer, it adds oxygen to the engine to give more power to the combustion, this makes the car run hotter and leaner because it adds more oxygen, so you no longer run your ideal 14.7:1 AFR.

You should use a 1 step colder plug as well to help prevent detonation. If you are not sure about what plug you should run, call up ZEX and tell them about your setup and they should make a good choice for you.

 

yeah im looking at the dry kit, i heard that with a 50 shot i would have to get one step colder plugs and thats good anything over 50, then retard the timeing and colder plugs but i wanted to make sure, but i also plan on getting a 272 cam regrind, and another question about how much is it to fill a 10lb bottle???? thanks guys!

 

in my area it is about $30-40 to fill up a 10 lbs. bottle. if you have the money i recomend stepping up to a wet kit. that way you wont have to run higher fuel pressure all the time to accomadate the nitrous you'll only be using some of the time.

 

yeah, ill look into it. umm another question would i need to chip my ecu if i get a 272 cam regrind?? i hear people are having to tune their ecu so it will smooth the idle out but i want to make sure, because i have the slightest clue on how to chip an ecu its over my head! lol

 

You dont have to chip or tune your ecu with the 272 cams, but it is highly recommended, and you might want to get some adjustable cam gears while your at it

 

yeah i was planing on getting the bisimoto cam gear, but now i dont know the whole subject of messing with my ecu kinda turns me off

 

if the cams arent too aggressive you can get away with it without a ECU tune, but its not ideal. to extract as much power possible from the cams you should get a ECU and cam timing tuned on a dyno by a competent tuner.

 

i did a wet 75 NX shot for almost 2 years with just 1* timing retard, ngk bkr7e plugs gapped at .030, and premium fuel.

 

I also ran 55 and a 75 shot with just a degree out in timing, premium, and step colder ngk coppers. It was a wet kit, I hate dry kits personally.

Did not have a problem for over a year.

 

I wouldn't pull timing or upgrade your fuel system on a 50 shot. I never have understood why no one mentions a window switch when discussing nitrous. IMO, it is absolutely 100% necessary to use a window switch if you spray on any car.

<U>Necessary</U>
92+ octane
colder plugs
window switch

<U>Recommended</U>
Bottle heater
Blow down tube
Bottle pressure guage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HandoEX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't pull timing or upgrade your fuel system on a 50 shot. I never have understood why no one mentions a window switch when discussing nitrous. IMO, it is absolutely 100% necessary to use a window switch if you spray on any car.

<U>Necessary</U>
92+ octane
colder plugs
window switch

<U>Recommended</U>
Bottle heater
Blow down tube
Bottle pressure guage</TD></TR></TABLE>

why do you specifically need a window switch? All nitrous kits come with some type of arming switch AND activation switch. I used a WOT(wide open throttle) switch mounted to the intake manifold at the base of the throttle rotor. Some guys mount the switch on the pedel bracket, but I find that it can bend sometimes.

I dont really think that arming and activation switches really need to be discussed in this situiation. Its like if someone askes for help to mount up fog lights, its usuially about wiring, not "where do I put my switch"

ETA: All nitrous kits should come with a blow down tube, its required for line discharge and to purge the bottle......

Also, if you do not retard the timing, you run the risk of detonation. If you go back and search this forum, I have posted much information on nitrous, you should read some of it. I explain why timing needs to be retarded and why a cam gear is not neccessary for nitrous etc....

 

since we're on the subject of safe nitrous use, anyone know why platnium plugs arent recomended for use with nitrous?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pos_cd5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since we're on the subject of safe nitrous use, anyone know why platnium plugs arent recomended for use with nitrous?</TD></TR></TABLE>

even distribution of the heat, makes a better flame front and reduces hot spots that can cause pre ignition or detonation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

even distribution of the heat, makes a better flame front and reduces hot spots that can cause pre ignition or detonation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you telling me thats what platnium doesnt do? or thats what copper and/or iridium does?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pos_cd5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

are you telling me thats what platnium doesnt do? or thats what copper and/or iridium does? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats platinums for ya, iridium bruns pretty hot, and copper wont stand up to the abuse for long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why do you specifically need a window switch? All nitrous kits come with some type of arming switch AND activation switch. I used a WOT(wide open throttle) switch mounted to the intake manifold at the base of the throttle rotor. Some guys mount the switch on the pedel bracket, but I find that it can bend sometimes.

I dont really think that arming and activation switches really need to be discussed in this situiation. Its like if someone askes for help to mount up fog lights, its usuially about wiring, not "where do I put my switch"

ETA: All nitrous kits should come with a blow down tube, its required for line discharge and to purge the bottle......

Also, if you do not retard the timing, you run the risk of detonation. If you go back and search this forum, I have posted much information on nitrous, you should read some of it. I explain why timing needs to be retarded and why a cam gear is not neccessary for nitrous etc....</TD></TR></TABLE>
How will an arming switch or activation switch protect you from spraying while hitting fuel cut at rev limiter? I've seen too many n00bs at the track blow their car up after hitting rev limiter while 50 feet down the track while on the bottle.

Detonating on a 50 shot with colder plugs and premium fuel? I doubt it. You don't need to pull timing on a 50 shot, IMO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats platinums for ya, iridium bruns pretty hot, and copper wont stand up to the abuse for long.</TD></TR></TABLE>

huh? ok, so copper deosnt stand up to nitrous for long...and iridium is too hot?...so your saying platnium is good for nitrous? every source i have read and/or talked to say that platnium isnt recomended for use with nitrous. either im not understanding you correctly or your giving me different informationt han what i get from everywhere else.

 

I ran a 75 shot on my D16 for over a year with zero mods, except plugs. No problems what so ever.

 

I would use a window switch if you are worried about hitting the limiter or whatnot but I guess I am just not a noob cause I never had one (never had a problem either). Then agian I did not shift that high, the motors peak power was not that high so there was no point in revving it out.

If you want to get a little crazy taking your setup to the next level of safety, consistancy, and reliability... first reading up on the proper use of nitrous but as far as hardware.

-msd window switch
-fuel pressure safety switch
-wot switch (most kits include this already)
-bottle heater (to keep pressure consistant)
-purge (to bleed the lines of air)
-check the tune (a/f, plugs, etc) and make adjustments accordingly