I changed the ignitor on my accord, it tested bad, i changed the rotor, and spark plug wires, no spark to the plugs. I put a meter on the coil, it tested good. Please Help!

 

First check for power to the Black/yellow wire at the dist. with the key on, that proves power thru the ignition switch.

I've seen lots of times the coil will ohm good, but short under load.

 

bought new coil, no dice
what is the next step



Modified by jimbo090757 at 2:47 PM 7/17/2007

 

Here is a good guide on items to check and troubleshoot:

http://techauto.bravehost.com/

 

Its working! the trouble shooting flow chart pointed to the ECU ground at the thermostat Thanks for that website

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First check for power to the Black/yellow wire at the dist. with the key on, that proves power thru the ignition switch.

I've seen lots of times the coil will ohm good, but short under load.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I ran my 91 std with the dizzy plug bracket unbolted, and lying on the tranny near the thermostat after replacing the dizzy o ring, could this cause a short?

Having an unhooked valve cover ground (the smaller of two wires that bolts to the em or block)?

The car would sputter under load, and stalled a few times, once while coasting to a stop, and once while on the gas I believe. The first time I restarted it after 15 minutes of fiddling with the dizzy front to back, but maybe it just needed to cool.
The second time I adjusted the dizzy while friend cranked and no dice, just kept cranking.
tested the wires and determined no spark, then un bolted the dizzy, slipped it off the camshaft then popped it back in place and on the first crank it started right up.
Car has not stalled since I popped the dizzy off and put back on, two days ago, and I then had the timing set by gun the next day by the mechanic who said it was barely off.
I replaced ignitor with exact same nec ignitor from junkyard, and the car seemed to idle lower and smoother immediately.
I had also just replaced a rubber plug that had been temporarily plugging a valve cover hole where I'd snapped the valve cover bolt, so maybe it was a vaccum leak that accounted for the idle, although the rubber plug had a decent seal I think.

Thanks in Advance for any help!
frank


Modified by budomove at 3:24 PM 11/27/2007


Modified by budomove at 3:24 PM 11/27/2007