Ok i did the intake manifold swap from y7 to y8 on my Civic. The idle was flucuating pretty ugly. So i thought the IACV was bad on the y8 TB that i bought. Switched it and still the same thing. What would be the easiest was to remove the TPS. I don't have a dremel to do it either. What would be the second best method?

 

Make sure you have the correct plug on the iac. It can easily be confused for the power steering plug, iat plus, or a purge selenoid plug. If it was working before there shouldn't be any difference. You may also have a vaccuum leak somewhere along your intake manifold gasket or throttle body gasket. I doubt its the TPS. Is the car throwing a cel?

 

hack saw to cut a slot, vice grips work ok if you're careful. What ever you can find to grab the exposed part of the bolts and turn them out.

 

No...no cel. When i removed everything i made sure to lable everything with some tape and a marker. As far as vacuum leak. i'm gonna buy a can of carb cleaner and spray around the area to see if there is one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hack saw to cut a slot, vice grips work ok if you're careful.</TD></TR></TABLE>


so that would be the second best?

 

Was your Y7 automatic?

 

check if the sensor located in the middle of pic is burnt. take out the screws and look at it. if it burnt replace it...diff cars have it at diff places so look...

 

if the tps is still mounted in the factory location then i do not recommend moving it.

look for vacuum leaks first.

then check throttle cable, make sure its not overtightened.

then make sure throttle plate is closing all the way.

then if you want to check the tps then get a multimeter and make sure its within spec.

if its out of spec, THEN you can move it and calibrate it.

if its not out of spec, leave it alone and keep on searching

 

I Changed my throttle body to an integra one but it had a broken tps so changed it for the one on my d15b7 I cut slots in it and got it out with a flat head screw driver and i went to the hard where store found some scrws to fit it ( I am going to suggest bolts i put philips on it and it is a pain in the but to get at them. if you take a multimiter to the red wire i think but check with other scorces befor you sue it. but it sould read .45 at idle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony Starks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was your Y7 automatic?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no it isn't. it's a manual intake with a auto TB. i cut and grinded out a plate to cover the 2wire IACV so i can use the 3wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deadline &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check if the sensor located in the middle of pic is burnt. take out the screws and look at it. if it burnt replace it...diff cars have it at diff places so look...

</TD></TR></TABLE>


exactly what sensor is that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejallday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">exactly what sensor is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

intake air temperature sensor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deadline &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

intake air temperature sensor </TD></TR></TABLE>

Naw it's good. The i/m that i have is off of a 99-00, and my engine is a 96. I bought a new gasket again replaced it and there's still a vacuum leak between the head and i/m flange. Is there a major difference between the two? Someone kick some knowledge this way. This surging idle is driving me friggin bonkers yo. I know someone can help. There's an *** load of guru's on here. Damn i need some more beer. Appreciate all the help so far but i gotta get this corrected.

 

anyone........anyone,.....bueller.....bueller.

 

did you bleed your coolant system after the swap, i would also check for vacuum leaks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaPartsHero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you bleed your coolant system after the swap, i would also check for vacuum leaks</TD></TR></TABLE>


yes i did bleed the coolant system. Checked for vacuum leaks and found it to be where the intake gasket is. I've replaced the gasket twice and it's still there.

 

I'd like to say thank you to all the peeps that actually tried to help me out with my situation. Believe it or not I did search and continued to search until now. I ended up finding this old thread from H-T.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1040235

I need to plug the air injection holes to correct my problem. I was unaware of these holes and didn't pay attention to any dissimilarities on the I/M flanges. As i stated in above posts the vacuum leaks were coming from between the head and I/M flange. So thanks again yo.