ctr pulley w/ balanced bottom end?
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: MARYLAND, united states
ok im getting my gsr block balanced. im running stock crank and rods with jdm itr pistons. exedy clutch and 7.5 lb flywheel. i was wondering if it would be safe to run the ctr crank pulley wit everything being balanced. its a daily driver and i take it to the track on weekends when i can. should i be safe? should i switch over to the itr oil pump?
get the ITR oil pump as it flows more then the LS/B16 oil pumps. I belive the GSR/ITR are the same.
Also, if the bottom end is balanced...im sure your a lot safer to run a CTR crank pulley then some of the people here(including myself) that ran the pulley and didnt balance our engines
Also, if the bottom end is balanced...im sure your a lot safer to run a CTR crank pulley then some of the people here(including myself) that ran the pulley and didnt balance our engines
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: MARYLAND, united states
i know that the ctr pulley is balanced factory from honda but should i have it balanced with the bottom end or leave it be?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get the ITR oil pump as it flows more then the LS/B16 oil pumps. I belive the GSR/ITR are the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought all VTEC oil pumps were the same?
I thought all VTEC oil pumps were the same?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Broken Gearbox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thought all VTEC oil pumps were the same?</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what I found from a few old threads
Here are the numbers(all rated at 6,000rpm)
B16A oil pump 53qpm
B17A oil pump 54qpm
B18C oil pump 75qpm
B18B oil pump 53qpm
I thought all VTEC oil pumps were the same?</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what I found from a few old threads
Here are the numbers(all rated at 6,000rpm)
B16A oil pump 53qpm
B17A oil pump 54qpm
B18C oil pump 75qpm
B18B oil pump 53qpm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is what I found from a few old threads
Here are the numbers(all rated at 6,000rpm)
B16A oil pump 53qpm
B17A oil pump 54qpm
B18C oil pump 75qpm
B18B oil pump 53qpm
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that for all gen. b16a?
This is what I found from a few old threads
Here are the numbers(all rated at 6,000rpm)
B16A oil pump 53qpm
B17A oil pump 54qpm
B18C oil pump 75qpm
B18B oil pump 53qpm
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that for all gen. b16a?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Broken Gearbox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is that for all gen. b16a?</TD></TR></TABLE>
my guess...yes
See I found the exact same info on d-series oil pumps...while everybody says they are the same...but the Vtec d-series engines need more oil flow/pressure for the vtec solenoid while the non-vtec engines have lower oil flow.
Is that for all gen. b16a?</TD></TR></TABLE>
my guess...yes
See I found the exact same info on d-series oil pumps...while everybody says they are the same...but the Vtec d-series engines need more oil flow/pressure for the vtec solenoid while the non-vtec engines have lower oil flow.
The oil pump for 96+ is the same on all B-series motors.
The part number is 15100-P72-A01 PUMP ASSY., OIL
see links below:
2000 GS-R
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...ch=no
2000 GS/LS
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...ch=no
2000 Type R
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...ch=no
All the same part number
The part number is 15100-P72-A01 PUMP ASSY., OIL
see links below:
2000 GS-R
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...ch=no
2000 GS/LS
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...ch=no
2000 Type R
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...ch=no
All the same part number
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc4teg95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i should be safe with a balanced bottom end and ctr crank pulley?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i honestly don't think it matters. honda balances the pulleys. i switch them out all the time depending on what alternator belt im using.
i honestly don't think it matters. honda balances the pulleys. i switch them out all the time depending on what alternator belt im using.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,082
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From: MARYLAND, united states
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i honestly don't think it matters. honda balances the pulleys. i switch them out all the time depending on what alternator belt im using.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its not the balancing of the pulley that one needs to be concerned with. Balanced bottom end or not the CTR N1 pulley has no harmonic balancer. This is where the debate comes into play as to possible engine damage or not. Remember, N1 wasn't designed with 100k miles of DD reliability in mind. I'm not going to tell you one way or the other... but having run the pulley myself, my opinion is for a DD street car its not worth the possible risk.
i honestly don't think it matters. honda balances the pulleys. i switch them out all the time depending on what alternator belt im using.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its not the balancing of the pulley that one needs to be concerned with. Balanced bottom end or not the CTR N1 pulley has no harmonic balancer. This is where the debate comes into play as to possible engine damage or not. Remember, N1 wasn't designed with 100k miles of DD reliability in mind. I'm not going to tell you one way or the other... but having run the pulley myself, my opinion is for a DD street car its not worth the possible risk.
regardless of the pulley you decide to go with, you should have your entire rotating assembly balanced with all the components possible. i.e. Crank pulley, pressure plate/clutch/flywheel, and crank, pistons,rods,etc. This will make sure your crank is balanced end to end.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soichiro’s way »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">regardless of the pulley you decide to go with, you should have your entire rotating assembly balanced with all the components possible. i.e. Crank pulley, pressure plate/clutch/flywheel, and crank, pistons,rods,etc. This will make sure your crank is balanced end to end.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't agree with this. While balancing won't hurt and does certainly make the engine smoother for extended RPM use, these engines are balanced quite well from the factory. If you have the extra cash to spend and want to be special, sure... But if you are doing it simply because you heard you have to, incorrect.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't agree with this. While balancing won't hurt and does certainly make the engine smoother for extended RPM use, these engines are balanced quite well from the factory. If you have the extra cash to spend and want to be special, sure... But if you are doing it simply because you heard you have to, incorrect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't agree with this. While balancing won't hurt and does certainly make the engine smoother for extended RPM use, these engines are balanced quite well from the factory. If you have the extra cash to spend and want to be special, sure... But if you are doing it simply because you heard you have to, incorrect.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, factory engines are very well balanced. But when we mix and match aftermarket flywheels and lighter pulleys not to mention different pistons then we aren't talking about "from the factory".
I don't agree with this. While balancing won't hurt and does certainly make the engine smoother for extended RPM use, these engines are balanced quite well from the factory. If you have the extra cash to spend and want to be special, sure... But if you are doing it simply because you heard you have to, incorrect.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, factory engines are very well balanced. But when we mix and match aftermarket flywheels and lighter pulleys not to mention different pistons then we aren't talking about "from the factory".
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,082
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From: MARYLAND, united states
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soichiro’s way »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
True, factory engines are very well balanced. But when we mix and match aftermarket flywheels and lighter pulleys not to mention different pistons then we aren't talking about "from the factory".
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the only thing that would not be factory is the clutch and flywheel. im gonna be using factory jdm itr pistons and factory ctr crank pulley both coming from honda. everything else besides the clutch and flywheel is factory honda.
True, factory engines are very well balanced. But when we mix and match aftermarket flywheels and lighter pulleys not to mention different pistons then we aren't talking about "from the factory".
</TD></TR></TABLE>the only thing that would not be factory is the clutch and flywheel. im gonna be using factory jdm itr pistons and factory ctr crank pulley both coming from honda. everything else besides the clutch and flywheel is factory honda.
Your setup will be fairly well balanced as
"Hybrid96EK" suggests. The point about the dampening of the pulley is a very good one. You will certainly be able to get away with not having your entire rotating assembly balanced with the pulley and clutch flywheel. If you plan on spinning your engine to high revs frequently or for extended periods then balancing would be a nice investment. When Spoon balances parts for their engines I believe they go to within .5 gram on rotating parts. A random ebay clutch sitting on the end of the crank will probably be nowhere near that. That will affect the balance of your assembly.
"Hybrid96EK" suggests. The point about the dampening of the pulley is a very good one. You will certainly be able to get away with not having your entire rotating assembly balanced with the pulley and clutch flywheel. If you plan on spinning your engine to high revs frequently or for extended periods then balancing would be a nice investment. When Spoon balances parts for their engines I believe they go to within .5 gram on rotating parts. A random ebay clutch sitting on the end of the crank will probably be nowhere near that. That will affect the balance of your assembly.
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