how to get more MPG...?
i dont know why but my my 6gen accord it gonna getting 19 miles per gallon is that normal beside gas being to high it goes by so quick...is there anything i can do that can help me save gas or buy on the car?
there is a lot of these thread. Search button. But the basics.
Weight, Driving habits, Maintenance.
Cleaning EGR ports, Clean air filter (Intake System would be better), Use seafoam to get hp and torque back, remove all unnecessary weight, and keep your tire pressure to specs. Changing spark plug might help too.
Weight, Driving habits, Maintenance.
Cleaning EGR ports, Clean air filter (Intake System would be better), Use seafoam to get hp and torque back, remove all unnecessary weight, and keep your tire pressure to specs. Changing spark plug might help too.
change your plugs, and use a stock type air filter.
If you use an aftermarket performance intake, it will put more air into the engine, and the ECU will try to correct this by adding more fuel = less fuel economy.
I wrote a thread earlier about changing your plugs for better fuel economy, and it can be seen here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2007632
The jist of it is, you should run Irridium plugs (any brand) and close the gap u to .036". Since it was an NGK seminar that I attended, the NGK plug number is PZFR6F-11.
However, according to alot of research on the internet, It would seem that driving habbits have the most affect on fuel economy. Those days when you get angry and start to drive aggressivly can really kill your gas in a hurry. Just something to keep in mind I suppose.
If you use an aftermarket performance intake, it will put more air into the engine, and the ECU will try to correct this by adding more fuel = less fuel economy.
I wrote a thread earlier about changing your plugs for better fuel economy, and it can be seen here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2007632
The jist of it is, you should run Irridium plugs (any brand) and close the gap u to .036". Since it was an NGK seminar that I attended, the NGK plug number is PZFR6F-11.
However, according to alot of research on the internet, It would seem that driving habbits have the most affect on fuel economy. Those days when you get angry and start to drive aggressivly can really kill your gas in a hurry. Just something to keep in mind I suppose.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you use an aftermarket performance intake, it will put more air into the engine, and the ECU will try to correct this by adding more fuel = less fuel economy.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ehh...not really. The cylinders only create so much vacuum to suck in air. The filter or intake type doesn't put more air into the engine, it just provides less restriction in the event that the engine wants more air.
Now if the intake has a turbo or blower between it and the engine, then you have more air
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ehh...not really. The cylinders only create so much vacuum to suck in air. The filter or intake type doesn't put more air into the engine, it just provides less restriction in the event that the engine wants more air.
Now if the intake has a turbo or blower between it and the engine, then you have more air
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Acccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fuel regulator helps</TD></TR></TABLE>
For gas milage!? Where did you come up with that one? If you turn your pressure down you're just going to run lean until the O2 sensor tells the ECU to add more fuel to bring it back to a proper A/F ratio.
Like has been said, driving habits, tires, weight, condition of the engine (like doing a tune-up) are the main things.
For gas milage!? Where did you come up with that one? If you turn your pressure down you're just going to run lean until the O2 sensor tells the ECU to add more fuel to bring it back to a proper A/F ratio.
Like has been said, driving habits, tires, weight, condition of the engine (like doing a tune-up) are the main things.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ehh...not really. The cylinders only create so much vacuum to suck in air. The filter or intake type doesn't put more air into the engine, it just provides less restriction in the event that the engine wants more air.
Now if the intake has a turbo or blower between it and the engine, then you have more air
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He makes more sense. This topic has come up but never thought of it that way i guess. LOL! I know turbo waste more gas, but how could an intake do that. As quoted, "less restriction"
Ehh...not really. The cylinders only create so much vacuum to suck in air. The filter or intake type doesn't put more air into the engine, it just provides less restriction in the event that the engine wants more air.
Now if the intake has a turbo or blower between it and the engine, then you have more air
</TD></TR></TABLE>He makes more sense. This topic has come up but never thought of it that way i guess. LOL! I know turbo waste more gas, but how could an intake do that. As quoted, "less restriction"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20ls01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">02 sensors, clogged cat, clogged air filter</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea these too i forgot about that
yea these too i forgot about that
Also if u have a lead foot and press the pedal 1/3 of the way down from a stop every time that takes a lot of gas. I started pressing the gas pedal slower like about 1/6 of the way down..yea you accelerate slow but u save gas. Once yur up to speed your good.
Try inflating your tires maybe halfway between the door jamb spec, and the max presure stated on the sidewall. You could even go up to max and beyond. This will help MPG, and contrary to what people will say, it's not unsafe.
I found that when I set-up my free flowing exhaust system, my highway mpg increased dramatically....
also a free flowing intake will complement an uprated exhaust system.
Less stress on engine = high mpg
try these...
1) alignment
2) tire pressure check
3) new plugs
4) free flowing exhaust (header, catalytic converter, muffler & piping)
5) free flowing intake filter
6) less fuel in tank (lighter car)
7) rear bumper under body tray (less drag parachute effect)
8) front lip (less air underneath all the bits and pieces of the car)
9) thinner oil also increases mpg (5w30 vs. 10w30)
10) ECU reflash in accordance to your engine mods.
11) lighter rims and tires
12) tune up (this can't be overstated)
also a free flowing intake will complement an uprated exhaust system.
Less stress on engine = high mpg
try these...
1) alignment
2) tire pressure check
3) new plugs
4) free flowing exhaust (header, catalytic converter, muffler & piping)
5) free flowing intake filter
6) less fuel in tank (lighter car)
7) rear bumper under body tray (less drag parachute effect)
8) front lip (less air underneath all the bits and pieces of the car)
9) thinner oil also increases mpg (5w30 vs. 10w30)
10) ECU reflash in accordance to your engine mods.
11) lighter rims and tires
12) tune up (this can't be overstated)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lokuputha »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
9) thinner oil also increases mpg (5w30 vs. 10w30)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both of those oils are he same weight. 5 is the initial weight, and 30 is the weigh at operating temp. so both those oils will be the same once the car is properly warmed up. Thinner oil would be 5w20
9) thinner oil also increases mpg (5w30 vs. 10w30)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both of those oils are he same weight. 5 is the initial weight, and 30 is the weigh at operating temp. so both those oils will be the same once the car is properly warmed up. Thinner oil would be 5w20
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Both of those oils are he same weight. 5 is the initial weight, and 30 is the weigh at operating temp. so both those oils will be the same once the car is properly warmed up. Thinner oil would be 5w20</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both of those oils are he same weight. 5 is the initial weight, and 30 is the weigh at operating temp. so both those oils will be the same once the car is properly warmed up. Thinner oil would be 5w20</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Both of those oils are he same weight. 5 is the initial weight, and 30 is the weigh at operating temp. so both those oils will be the same once the car is properly warmed up. Thinner oil would be 5w20</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is true
Both of those oils are he same weight. 5 is the initial weight, and 30 is the weigh at operating temp. so both those oils will be the same once the car is properly warmed up. Thinner oil would be 5w20</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is true
Check out this site .http://www.mpgresearch.com/
That site has a vast amount of info on mods and new technologies.
Check out the power lynze and somender singh grooves stuff, also the omni valves seem interesting. It is mostly domestics but there are some bugs, older Volvo's and what not.
I wish people from the " import amd domestic" scene would just unite cause there is so much we can do for each other.
That site has a vast amount of info on mods and new technologies.
Check out the power lynze and somender singh grooves stuff, also the omni valves seem interesting. It is mostly domestics but there are some bugs, older Volvo's and what not.
I wish people from the " import amd domestic" scene would just unite cause there is so much we can do for each other.
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