Ok, I have a 95 EX coupe. About a month ago my car started acting up. The fuel pump would not prime, then magically kick on and I was good to go. My friend checked the main relay with a 9v battery and it wasn't working, took a soldering iron to it and got it working again. So now that the problem was found, I got a new main relay and didn't even use the repaired one. The issue went away for a few weeks. Now, sometimes when I turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump hesitates a half a second to a second before it primes. Hasn't left me stranded yet, and works every time, but the hesitation annoys the crap out of me. I know it shouldn't do that. Any ideas? I'm going to check the power at the connector of the fuel pump with a multimeter, the ground wire in the harness at the ECU(I have an AFC wired in so I figure this needs to be double checked), and spray some electric contact cleaner in my ignition key cylinder. Does anyone have any other ideas or advice? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

Anybody?

 

mine had the same problem replaced the main relay and it also hesitates sometimes but havent checked anythin else it works good anyways but i dont know what can be the problem....not much help...sorry

 

Hey

Yeah I have the exact same problem. I have replaced the main relay and it still takes a few seconds before the fuel pump switches on. Not sure what to do now.

I found this page that has one line that suggests that it maybe the fuel pump. it says:

Fuel pump: Symptoms of a bad fuel pump.

* Turn the ignition switch on and no hum is heard for the first 2 seconds.
* Car stalls while idling or cruising above 1 mph. Sometimes car comes back to life.
* To troubleshoot or replace the fuel pump see this page.

Thats on here. http://s90858418.onlinehome.us/techauto/index.php

Thats one of the symptoms but it doesn't say if a faulty fuel pump has all of these symptoms or some of them.

I also started a forum on another site that discusses the same problem.
http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/c...64094

Anyway next week I'm going on a 400km journey back home. Hopefully Ill make if its not fixed yet.

 

Ok, got done putting in a new clutch and other goodies, not the issue is back with a vengance. Turning the key to position 2, the fuel pump won't prime for 5-10 minutes, then will suddenly kick on all by itself. I've followed the honda manual's flow chart and it brings me to this solution: Repair open in the BLU/WHT wire between the main relay and the ignition switch. From what my haynes says, those are "KEY" and "GND". With my key placed in the ignition, I get the beeping... so there shouldn't be anything wrong with these wires right? I'm just totally confused now. I'm going to hunt down the fuel pump ground, and also see if I'm even getting a signal from the ECU from the green/yellow FLR wire.

Does anyone have any ideas? This is killing me, I'm totally stumped.

 

I didn't read all the other posts so maybe this old news. If your PGM FI main relay is ok, check the starter cut relay (it should be inside under the dash, atleast it is on the 96+ civics). Also, it sounds ridiculous, but I had a friends car that would not power up the fuel pump if one of the engine grounds was off.

 

I have a 95, not a 96-00, I haven't seen anything about a starter cut relay. I have no problems with the starting part of the system, the car cranks, gets ignition, etc, but the fuel pump will not operate correctly. I'm working on finding someone with a p28 or other ecu to borrow to swap out, and see if the fuel pump primes with a different ecu.

 

I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX 2 door that is having the same problems cutting off while driving. I too have virtually check everything and just bought a new fuel pump Friday installed it and still not cranking up, (but will crank up when/if I spray starter fluid) I put my old fuel pump back in and re-tested the voltage. I never saw 12v from the connector. The fuse is good. I did finally get it cranked when I (straight wired) 12volts from my stereo amp wire. Some how the fuel pump wire is getting a bad 12v signal ???? I went ahead a tapped ito the 12v power supply (the connector (Blue wire on fuel pump-black/yellow from fuse box). I went to Carowinds this weekend and instead of waiting in the middle of the highway trying to crank my car I jumped out and connected the Tapped fuel line wire, to my amp wire and cranks right up. (I had to seperate the two wires or else the car will not cut off. I am plannig to set up a relay for the "switch" today, so I can just press a toggle button to switch off/on the fuel pump when needed. azthere must be a fray in the wire because I don't need to do this all the timt (anothe reason for a on/off switch.When it does go bad I can connect the wire crank the car, but when I seperate the wire the car tries to cut back off, but as long as I have these two wires connected my car is OK. I do want to know what is causing this problem but refused to pay Honda or anybody $85 diagnostic fee to try and find out the problem. If your wire to the fuel pump is not 12 when cranking will cause the 1999 accord to cut out periodically. This is my proof I also retured the $140 fuel pump I just bought and only used for 2 seconds

 

I just bought a Honda civic D16Z6 VTEC and I have the same issue when I turn the key I get a check engine light from the ECU because I doesn't read fuel pressure and the ignition is cut off after 10-15 minutes the relay kicks in and I hear the fuel pump the check engine light turns off and the car just works!
checked the relay behind the glove box it's ok.
I also found a primary fuel pump relay inside the engine bay Infront of the battery and the cables look old and rusty also has two relays and they may be causing the issue (bybassed the rusty cables but still won't activate) or the ground of the whole circuit.
I'll let you know if I solve it!

 

Your problem is the ECU.

 

You are right after rtfm and testing I'm now soldering the ECU pins related to the fuel pump today we will know or someone has to come pick me up .