Knock Sensor Question - Broken Clip
1992 SI4WS
I replaced my head gasket, and when doing so sprayed it with copper spray-a-gasket because I was having oil leak issues and wanted as tight a seal as possible. Torqued head to spec, used silicone on all seals and the oil leak disappeared. Now I start the car and it bogs like hell between 2-3k RPM, so I immediately assume it's the valve clearances, stupidly. Anyways I adjusted all the valves which had probably never been done in 130k miles and needed to be done anyways. But it had no effect on the problem, and driving it around last night my car felt like it was dying anytime i tried to accelerate between 2-3k RPM. I thought it had to be something fuel related, and my car threw a CEL. Code was #23 - Knock Sensor.
I thought at this point the CEL was unrelated to my problem, because since i've been working on the car, the clip on the Knock Sensor is broken and it falls out at times and will be hanging behind the block until i put it back on. Having just searched my bogging issue here, I've found knock sensor is the king of bogging/hesitation problems and I'm excited that it's seemingly such an easy fix.
I started to tape it in place but then started thinking maybe tape isn't the best solution for a sensor that plugs into the block and will get pretty hot. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for the best solution? I just can't get the sensor to stay in place and I'm going to use something for a permanent solution... On my list for possible solutions are JB Weld, Superglue, and electrical tape or any other type of tape that might work. Anyone have any suggestions? (I'm not paying $100+ for a new knock sensor, the sensor works perfectly when it's attached, it just will not stay attached on its own.)
Thanks for any suggestions.
I replaced my head gasket, and when doing so sprayed it with copper spray-a-gasket because I was having oil leak issues and wanted as tight a seal as possible. Torqued head to spec, used silicone on all seals and the oil leak disappeared. Now I start the car and it bogs like hell between 2-3k RPM, so I immediately assume it's the valve clearances, stupidly. Anyways I adjusted all the valves which had probably never been done in 130k miles and needed to be done anyways. But it had no effect on the problem, and driving it around last night my car felt like it was dying anytime i tried to accelerate between 2-3k RPM. I thought it had to be something fuel related, and my car threw a CEL. Code was #23 - Knock Sensor.
I thought at this point the CEL was unrelated to my problem, because since i've been working on the car, the clip on the Knock Sensor is broken and it falls out at times and will be hanging behind the block until i put it back on. Having just searched my bogging issue here, I've found knock sensor is the king of bogging/hesitation problems and I'm excited that it's seemingly such an easy fix.
I started to tape it in place but then started thinking maybe tape isn't the best solution for a sensor that plugs into the block and will get pretty hot. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for the best solution? I just can't get the sensor to stay in place and I'm going to use something for a permanent solution... On my list for possible solutions are JB Weld, Superglue, and electrical tape or any other type of tape that might work. Anyone have any suggestions? (I'm not paying $100+ for a new knock sensor, the sensor works perfectly when it's attached, it just will not stay attached on its own.)
Thanks for any suggestions.
i broke mine too. i got a obdo b16 one for my h22a4.it physically fits but i have to wire in the obdo connector into my wire harness. havent found out if it works yet though.
Yeah, that **** is a bitch. First, I tried to glue it together with regular glue, and realized that didn't help. I suggest you go to Autozone and look for "JB Weld" or something like that in the glue section of the aisle. You have to mix the two together. I did mine like that, and it's pretty good.
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