I just bought a ls turbo, and it has not yet been tuned. I was wondering how bad is it to drive without being tuned, and also (before or after tune) what will be a save PSI to run with a stock ls. I have crower turbo cams that i will put in it, but i just want to know how carefull i need to be untill its tuned. is it bad to get on it without it being tuned?

 

Be very careful. Honestly I wouldn't drive it until tuning day, or get it towed.

It's hard telling what can go wrong, and at what psi.

6 psi can blow your motor. Unlikely, but can happen.

On stock internals you can make over ~240whp.

it's not the psi, it's the whp that your engine can handle.

 

PSI has nothing to do with it, psi does not blow motors up.

Edit: Btw try to get tuned asap

 

okay. what kind of turbo are you running?
typically, the average amount of boost ran by stock internal'd LS-T guys are roughly around 12 psi on a t3/t4 type turbo.

also, DO NOT, i repeat, DO NOT go into boost until you are tuned!

GL with your car.

 

i have kinda the same set up, but wwas sondering what i should use as far as tunning goes.. like hondata s200 or s300 or greddy emanage...
this is my setup

B18B1 rebuilt with usdm b16 pistons (11.4:1 static compression)
Cometic hg drops cr to 10.4:1
Crower 404s
Rocket LS single valvesprings
NGK BKR7ES plugs
Skunk2 intake manifold
GSR tranny
clutchmasters stg4 4puck clutch
fidanza 8lb flywheel
Prothane mounts
Spoon Radiator

Neukin ramhorn mani
t3/t04e 57 trim stg3 wheel .63 a/r exh.
hacked neukin dumptube
tial 38mm wg
3 in down pipw
ic piping from a revhard kit
typical fmic
dual horn style rfl bov
RC 440s
Walbro 255

thank you to anyone that can offer me a good suggestion!!

 

if you really want to go hardcore, s300 is where it's at.
but the s200 is still good. that's what i have; full options too. but be sure your tuner is good and is reputable. last thing youd want is an inexperienced-hondata-tuner

anyway, whatever you do, don't take shortcuts and rock the AFC hack.

and 10.4:1 is really high compression. i wouldn't go over 10psi with that turbo.

 

Disconnect the turbo from the intake so it's not building pressure, and reconnect it when you tune the thing the next day(The Ghetto Fabulous way). That just makes sense to me to do it like that, but I don't have experience with turbos.

 

I have a t3/t4, im buying hondata s300 by next week and hope to have it tuned by the end of next week as well. As was stated above me, would that work...to disconnect the turbo from the intake so all it does is spool, but no boost? run a filter off the intake and just have the turbo connected to the exhaust side???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highrev1987 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PSI has nothing to do with it, psi does not blow motors up.

Edit: Btw try to get tuned asap</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2, psi doesn't blow motors, Horsepower or untuned motors, blows motors, to the OP, if you have access to a flat bed tow that **** to the tuner. Or if you have to drive it, as in no other way of getting around, just keep away from boosting. Find out where the turbo begins to spool and just shift prior to it. Or if you have a boost guage, keep the needle under 0, or in the vacum region before the needle reaches the 0 where it then begins to accumulate boost.

 

alrignt

 

6 psi wont hurt you engine, even on an untuned motor. Its a good idea to tune it asap though..to get the most out of the engine. A friend of mine run a d16a6 running 7 psi for 3 years never tuned!! the engine still runs to this day and its his DD.

 

also i would like to ask what you guys thing a jackson racing supercharger does? it runs 6psi.. you dont tune it and guess what it doesnt mess up your engine! Now im not saying psi doesnt kill your engine becuase you can run 20+ psi on a stock bottom end d16 and not blow it up its all about how you have it set-up. Any stock honda eninge can handle 7-10psi and not need a tune. But a tune is always a good idea it will make the car run alot smoother and will unlock so power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BOOSTED LS EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have kinda the same set up, but wwas sondering what i should use as far as tunning goes.. like hondata s200 or s300 or greddy emanage...
this is my setup

B18B1 rebuilt with usdm b16 pistons (11.4:1 static compression)
Cometic hg drops cr to 10.4:1
Crower 404s
Rocket LS single valvesprings
NGK BKR7ES plugs
Skunk2 intake manifold
GSR tranny
clutchmasters stg4 4puck clutch
fidanza 8lb flywheel
Prothane mounts
Spoon Radiator

Neukin ramhorn mani
t3/t04e 57 trim stg3 wheel .63 a/r exh.
hacked neukin dumptube
tial 38mm wg
3 in down pipw
ic piping from a revhard kit
typical fmic
dual horn style rfl bov
RC 440s
Walbro 255

thank you to anyone that can offer me a good suggestion!!</TD></TR></TABLE>


Either one, Hondata s200 or s300 which ever you can get your hands on first, but many use the s200 w/boost option.

 

With the cams in you can run the full rpm range but i wouldn't go much more the 7 psi. You should get a wideband, air/fuel monitor.A/F for gas is 14.7. you will want your a/f to be a little rich..."always a good idea" 13-13.5 is stay around at when im above 2500rpms. ...anything below 14.7 is rich above is lean.. leaning it out too much will kill your engine. This is where tuning comes in. honda's run very rich in fact they are pig rich from factory. When you boost you will start to learn out your engine but this not all the bad because stock they run something like 9 or 10 for a a/f and with low boost and no tune it will bring it up to 12-13ish. more air for the amount of fuel. thats why alot of guys running low boost engines with stock everything are getting better gas mileage then before.

I can go in on this more if you would like but im at work and need to do some stuff now

 

well i have to drive about 2 hours to get it tuned, should i disconect the turbo from the intake half?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gamefreak0109 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i have to drive about 2 hours to get it tuned, should i disconect the turbo from the intake half?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it runs and idles when you do that, i wouldnt see why not. Seems ghetto, but if it gets you to the tuning shop by letting it run N/A, and in doing so it runs fine and idles ok, then i would say go for it, just dont run it hard or rev it high, drive it like a granny, and then let the tuning shop do all the good work

 

just put the turbo in the car and dont drive around in boost. hook a boost/vac gauge and make sure it never sees boost. you just have to drive responsibly.

leaving the turbo on and unhooking a charge pipe can lead to the turbo overspinning and killing itself. be smart and dont get on it until it's tuned.

 

good point, so i just need to watch myself with it, thats gonna be hard, but for the life of the motor i think i can do that

 

im only boosing 6psi, becuase there is way too muc wheel spin in second and third.. But the ecu is chiped already too... Anways im going with s300 and having beyond engineering tune it.. I hope all goes well

 

bump

 

^^

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">leaving the turbo on and unhooking a charge pipe can lead to the turbo overspinning and killing itself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My suggestion seemed like a pretty good one until I read this. That's a possibility I overlooked. Well, you learn something every day, huh?