i am planning to run what ever it takes to hit my pathetic goal of 200whp in my stock y7. and my friend around here keeps on telling my that i should get head studs if i run 8-10psi or more. he says most d-series heads lift.is this true? i kind of searched this one but couldnt find any one with that much of a problem.

money isnt the prob towards the arp heads studs its the fact that i have to take the head off correct? and i just dont have that much experience, though i could find a diy.

 

head studs would be a very good idea for that engine. your friend is right.....the D-series engine's are prone to head-lift.

although your not gonna make that much power its still a good investment so you wont have to constantly replace headhaskets.

 

I lifted my head on 7 psi. So yeah, headstuds are always a good idea with a SOHC turbo.

I wouldn't go ripping the motor apart though. I would just boost it, and when/if the head gasket goes, do a new gasket and the ARPs at the same time.

Just be prepared that it might happen and don't be upset when it does. lol

 

to get to the head bolts, do you have to take off the valve cover?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to get to the head bolts, do you have to take off the valve cover?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, to install head studs you need to take the head off, replace the head gasket, and install the studs all at the same time.

I've actually installed ARP headstuds without removing the head (just one stud at a time) before, but it's really really not recommended to do it that way. lol.

 

at least its retardedly easy to remove a d series head. valve cover off, loosen timing belt, remove bolts, repeat in reverse.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">at least its retardedly easy to remove a d series head. drain coolant, valve cover off, remove header, remove intake manifold, loosen timing belt, remove bolts, repeat in reverse. </TD></TR></TABLE>


A head gasket change take me about 4 hours.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Semtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A head gasket change take me about 4 hours.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice. Yeah it takes me about 2-4 hours for a head gasket change myself, depending on what all I'm doing.

The fact is, if you are going to be into boosted SOHCs, then you will get good at changing head gaskets. lol. I have a collection on my garage wall, I think I have 6 up there right now.

I haven't popped one for over a year now though.

 

yea d series is super easy to work on. Fucken pullying the head of a b series is not as much fun. That's why I'm debating to go to d series.

But yea headstuds will help. And it's so easy to do it's actually quite enjoyable.

 

well if i pull the head off then i guess i will have to remove all of my fluids as well correct?oil, coolent.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if i pull the head off then i guess i will have to remove all of my fluids as well correct?oil, coolent.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea just make sure you know what you are doing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if i pull the head off then i guess i will have to remove all of my fluids as well correct?oil, coolent.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drain coolant, valve cover off, remove header, remove intake manifold, loosen timing belt, remove bolts, repeat in reverse.</TD></TR></TABLE>


If you've never done it before, expect to spend a full weekend on it. My best advice: get a Haynes manual, and follow everything EXCEPT the part where they make you remove the timing belt - that's a bunch of bullshit. All you need to do is loosen the tensioner and slide the belt of.

Also, make sure you know how to set the motor to TDC and how to properly tension the timing belt.

 

i think i am going to see if i can get my tuner to just do it.

 

i am thinking about not doing the arp's till my head lifts or my gasket blows, see how long it will last. i am only going to run 7psi and my compression test was pretty good.

 

So then you plan on getting new OEM headbolts, since the OEM ones are designed for single-use only? If thats the case, its the same price for ARP.

BTW its not that sohc's are prone to headlift - they are prone to people running too much timing, reusing old headbolts, reusing headgaskets, not torquing to the right amount/right sequence, and people not checking for warpage. Most of the time when you see someone with headlift, they aren't very capible at scratching their own butt, let alone putting a sohc head on properly.

ARP's are $110 at most to your door, an OEM HG is $30 to your door, 6 hours of minimum wage work is another $50 or so, and an oil/coolant change is ~$20. So do you really want to risk $100, when you could pay $110 up front and know there won't be any issues? I've presented the case, now its up to you.

 

what are the signs of a blown headgasket, other than oil covering the entire block?

something like oil in the coolant?

 

you have a point. damn this **** is like a money pit though.

 

yea arp head studs would be a good addition to your setup, even at 7 psi. just make sure you know what you're doing cause if not, be prepared to spend a little $$$.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW its not that sohc's are prone to headlift - they are prone to people running too much timing, reusing old headbolts, reusing headgaskets, not torquing to the right amount/right sequence, and people not checking for warpage. Most of the time when you see someone with headlift, they aren't very capible at scratching their own butt, let alone putting a sohc head on properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>


That may be a small part of it, but D-series motors have a long stroke and short rods (i.e., a stupid r/s ratio) which results in extra stresses on the cylinder thrust surfaces which in turn creates cylinder walk. Cylinder walk = blown head gaskets. ARP hardware will combat this because the extra clamping force keeps the sleeves in place.

 

Head studs are always a good call.