My dad's trying to replace his timing belt and the nut won't loosen up. Here's what we've tried:

- Impact wrench (not too sure on the torque specs)

- and this:

Dad had his friend at work weld this ghetto tool together


Stuck that into here


Mm hmm


You can see one of the breaker bars right there


And after my dad stood on the breaker bars bouncing up and down numerous times on 3 different days of trying


WTF. Can anybody please help us out? Thanks in advance.


Modified by OutlawCL at 2:05 AM 5/26/2007

 

I thought there was a special tool that made that a little bit easier , cost about 25 bux , Crank removal tool.

 

i would sure hope your using a 12point socket as well. You might strip it out if your only using a 6point. Does the crank spin when you try to loosen the nut? i think your supposed to get a special tool to fit around the big nut.

does anyone know if the smaller nut hes trying to get off is reverse threaded?

 

no there not reverse thread

lefty=loosey
right=tighty

 

The ghetto tool my dad made more or less works the same way as the "special tool." The special tool holds the crank from spinning so the bolt can be loosened, so no, the crank is not spinning. He is using a 12 point socket and the nut is not reverse threaded.

 

First, go to your local autoparts store.
Second, purchase the lubricant that freezes while lubricating. Stuff is the ****, military friend says the army switched to using it on all there stuff so it has to be the goods when used for working on tanks, planes, and the like. It freezes the threads while lubricated them, causing them to shrink and break the rust that is keeping the bold fused.
Third spray it real good. Keep in mind it has a really thick washer that you need to get behing to hit the threads, spray there for a real long time. Then hit the back behind the crank pulley. Let it sit for about one minute.
Turn your impact as high as it will go or whatever you've got(I used a somewhat decent 1/2 inch impact) and drill it for a long time. Slowly it will, all and all, jar loose a bit then quickly come off.
Repeat as necessary.

 

A 6-point socket would be a better choice than a 12-point socket to remove the bolt. 12-point socket is fine for most lightweight repairs, but heavy wrenching calls for a 6-point socket.

A 6-point socket is much less likely to slip off a stubborn fastener or round over the corners. The reason: (1) 6-point sockets have thicker walls, so they're less likely to flex. (2) A 6-point socket is designed to contact the head of a fastener well away from the corners so contact is made on the thickest part of the socket and the flatest part of the fastener. This dramatically reduces the likelihood of slippage and round over the corners. (3) the edges of a socket are angled back a few degrees to allow the socket to slide easily over a fastener. The angle is less on a 6-point socket than its 12-point socket counterpart, again providing more contact area inside the socket.

Check out Touring Accords DIY for timing belt change in the FAQs in the stickies, he recommends 6-point sockets for the job.

 

ill be removing mine soon once the "special tool "gets here i sure this doesnt happen to me -__- good luck man and keep us updated

 

1.)Drive to a shop that has airtools.
2.)Tell them you will give them $20 to zip it off with a BIG arigun.


Tire shops usually have some big airguns w/ high PSI's.

 

what and then drive it home?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LocOBanAnA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what and then drive it home? </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha pwned.

I'll tell him about that freezing lube stuff and using the 6 point socket instead. I'll keep everybody updated. Thanks everybody.

 

try and find a shorter extension for your breaker bar if you can. The longer the extension, the more torque it will absorb. also, try and find some sort of johnson bar. If you dont know what that is, its basically a long pipe that slides over the end of the ratchet handle to give you more leverage

 

I had the same problem too. Air tools didnt work. Then i got the breaker bar. Tried and tried that bolt wouldnt come off. So i had a great solution to the problem. I bought myself a Vice Grip Chain from my local auto store. Remember to cut and use they old belt. Find a bar to hold down the vice grip down. Sure enough with a lot of power. That bolt will come off EZ. Why pay 50 dallors for the hex tool while the vice chain is only 20 dallors. Good luck.

 

I agree with the guy who said take it to a shop. You just have them zip it back on after they get it off. It will be loose enough for you to get it back off when you get home. I have done this before.

 

You just need more leverage, put a 3-4 fot long pipe on that breaker bar.

Here's what I use at work: ir261

 

Like stated above, don't use 12 point sockets. The only time I use a 12 point socket is when I'm loosening a bolt with a 12 point head. I made that mistake once, grabbed a 12 point socket by mistake and rounded the bolt head. I only use 6 point sockets unless a 12 point is required.

You have the right idea though. The tool your dad had welded should work, it's not pretty but it should get the job done. Now use the same setup but with a 6 point socket and take a long steel pipe (cheater pipe) and slide it over the end of the breaker bar. That should give you enough leverage to break that bolt free.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try and find a shorter extension for your breaker bar if you can. The longer the extension, the more torque it will absorb.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't go to a smaller extension because how else are you going to get enough room to break that bolt free. You need a long extension to get the movement. It does take some extra effort but the long cheater pipe should take care of that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LocOBanAnA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what and then drive it home?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have heard of people doing this. Having a shop break it loose, tighten it back up a bit, then drive straight home. You should be ok, though it something I'd use as a last resort. Of course you don't want to be driving around town like that but straight home should be ok, just make sure the bolt is more than just finger tight, you don't want it to fall out.

OP,
Check out my timing belt write-up in the FAQ. I have a couple pictures showing how I got that bolt loose and the tools I used. I've done it that way a couple times and it's worked great so far.

 

havnig trouble with mine also. I broke a breaker bar already.

I have tried a 230 tq pound air gun, no go so i heated the bolt up for 3 mins and still nothing, and im using a 6 point air gun socket.

Any ideas? Was thinking of getting a 500 pound tq gun. Might have to do the last resort and have a shop losen it up or something

 

Make sure you are not using an adapter on your socket. You might have to step up to the 500 ft lb gun.

 

I had a tough time getting it off too. I soaked it with PB Blaster penetrating fluid overnight and again throughout the day. I got it off with 2 1/2" Snap-On breaker bars. A 4 foot Snap On jack handle was put over the one connected to the bolt and supported on the end of the extension with a jack stand. The other breaker bar was connected to a special tool like this: Harmonic Balancer Pulley Tool and a block of wood on the ground kept it from rotating. The socket was a 6 point Snap On chrome. We had probably 130+ lbs of pressure about 3.5 ft out, so it probably took 450+ ft lbs to break it. It felt like everything was about to snap before the bolt finally broke loose. Ideally you should have a 3/4 quality breaker bar for this or a VERY strong impact gun. Whatever you do, use quality sockets so you don't risk stripping the pulley bolt!



Modified by Stel at 5:36 AM 6/3/2007

 

I didn't have the special removal tool so what I did according to Haynes, is jam your flywheel with a good screwdriver. You can see that in my first pic. It holds the crankshaft from turning by locking the flywheel. There's a black cover next to the oil pan and the transmission. With that in place, I rented a breaker bar and 1/2" drive extension from Autozone(heavy duty) and 6-point socket for the crankshaft pulley bolt. A long extension is a must. When I removed mine, the thing flexed so much, then I jumped and "banng". I thought I broke something but nope, the bolt came out. Hardest ever.

 

SUCCESS! My dad went and bought a 6 point socket and finally got it off. Thanks for all the help folks.

 

FSBxtreme : Hey man is there a way to get a better pic? &gt;&lt; im having a hard time seeing whats what in that pic lol. Thanks

Outlaw CL : Good job man getting yalls off, i hope mine comes off sooner or later