i just replace my brake booster and rubber lines (with stainless). my problem is that my brakes drag. at first the pedal seems fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes the pedal feel like it does when you have the car off and you bump the brakes. the wheels are also hot at all four corners. if i pump the brakes with the car off and then start the car i feel the pedal sink (so booster is good). what did i do wrong?

 

You need to adjust the rod that goes from the pedal through the booster to the MC.

 

or you put a abs booster on a non abs master

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to adjust the rod that goes from the pedal through the booster to the MC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how and what do i adjust? is it the rod itself or the clevis? how do i know when its in spec?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or you put a abs booster on a non abs master</TD></TR></TABLE>
how so i know if its for abs or not? i ordered both mc and the BB for a 91 civic EX. i don't think abs was an option?

 

up

 

you said clevis

but seriously you can adjust that little pushrod in & out.... yours is out too far (towards the engine) so it's like you're riding the brakes nonstop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or you put a abs booster on a non abs master</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd bet this is the problem!

Wes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or you put a abs booster on a non abs master</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is this possible?

The Civic-compatible pre-'96 ABS boosters and MCs I've seen have had the bolt pattern rotated 90 degrees vs. the non-ABS stuff, so it wouldn't be possible to use an ABS booster with a non-ABS MC.

Is there some car that has a different booster bolt pattern that I am missing here?

Edit: I just remembered that non-ABS Integras have the same bolt pattern as the ABS Integras, while the Civics do not. I guess that answers my question.

 

As I understand it;

The ABS boosters and non-ABS boosters have a different "plunger" length that goes into the cup of the master cylinder piston.

The pistons are shaped differently on the back side to account for this different length and can't be swapped from ABS to non-ABS boosters.

I've never had the problem, so I don't know any more of the specifics.

Wes

 

1. was abs even an option on a 91 EX?

2. so do i just twist the rod itself with a plyers right as the fire wall?
3. how much? how many turns and how will i know when its right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. was abs even an option on a 91 EX?

2. so do i just twist the rod itself with a plyers right as the fire wall?
3. how much? how many turns and how will i know when its right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
up

 

abs wasn't available on a '91...but

hopefully the fsm says how to do it...

when i replaced a booster, i had the old one and the new one side by side, and adjusted them to the same length at that time. for some reason i'm thinking you have to make those adjustments from inside the car under the dash, if it's already installed. which you know is a complete pain in the dick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. was abs even an option on a 91 EX?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. No Civics had ABS until '92.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. so do i just twist the rod itself with a plyers right as the fire wall?
3. how much? how many turns and how will i know when its right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't twist the rod.

Pages 19-23 and 19-24 of the 1990 Civic Helm FSM describe in detail how the length and clearance of the pushrod is supposed to be adjusted. The length from the clevis pin on the yoke to the base of the booster is supposed to be 116mm.

 

4. so can i just turn it a full turn at a time and test after each turn until there is not more drag?

5. what happens if i over adjust it the other way?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4. so can i just turn it a full turn at a time and test after each turn until there is not more drag?

5. what happens if i over adjust it the other way?</TD></TR></TABLE>

UP

 

I had the same problem after replacing the booster. I had to adjust the rod, Honda makes a special tool for it but as I’m a special tool myself I made my own, just cut a section out of a 14mm and a 17mm box end wrench so you can slide them over the rod and make adjustment. The rod is not coming back enough so you will need to back it off and reset you brake light switch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abnaasefmb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem after replacing the booster. I had to adjust the rod, Honda makes a special tool for it but as I’m a special tool myself I made my own, just cut a section out of a 14mm and a 17mm box end wrench so you can slide them over the rod and make adjustment. The rod is not coming back enough so you will need to back it off and reset you brake light switch. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i wish i could see a picture
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4. so can i just turn it a full turn at a time and test after each turn until there is not more drag?

5. what happens if i over adjust it the other way?</TD></TR></TABLE>
what happens if i over adjust it the other way?

 

sorry i don't have pics and all of my stuff is currently being shipped form hawaii so it would be a while before i could take pics. but all i did was take a speedy gringed and cut about 10mm of the box end out. do this for both the 17mm and the 14mm and you can adjust the "star" bolt (12point). the only hard thing is taking out your seat and unplugging the brake light switch. search "dragging brakes" and you will find a bunch of info on this topic.

 

this tool you made: was it for turning the adjuster nut or to measure the length of the shaft?

 

to turn the adjuster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abnaasefmb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to turn the adjuster. </TD></TR></TABLE>
OMG! are you telling me that you didn't realize that the star shaped nut can be backed off of the hex nut! lol

 

It’s a 17mm 12 point. And if you have been under the dash you’ll notice there is not much room for turning. I think your thinking about the pedal height adjuster or the 17mm lock nut. You can turn that all day and not fix your problem. Good luck.

 

(QUOTE) as I’m a special tool myself I made my own, just cut a section out of a 14mm and a 17mm box end wrench[/QUOTE]

So about this tool u made, do u mean cutting a portion off THE TOP of the box end wrench? Only 1 side or both? Basically making the ( box end) more shallow so u can move it easier?

 

Basically they are making a 12 point line wrench. Something like this:

https://www.grainger.com/product/15V...E&gclsrc=aw.ds