Well, I installed a bigger flow 275lph fuel pump, AEM fuel rail, and 4 550cc RC Injectors. I installed the turbo Kit. Drove it to the Dyno Shop. ( Brauning motorsports) oh , i installed the injectors when i got there. It ran kinda crappy on the way there. Check engine light reading a MAP sensor code. Put the injectors in and hooked up a GM 3-bar map sensor, and set a base map for the hondata ecu. He started to run a few test and proceeded to tune the car. Never checked for timing or did anything else to the car. He ask me if there were anything upgraded in the motor. I said its all stock , And i told him i would ike to see 14 psi. He said my motor wouldnt hold it. I said well so many people have said that they run well with 14 psi. Any way after paying for the service I left and got on hard down the road. And at 120 going in to fifth gear. BOOM. So i drove it back. Got out the car and was cussing , I drove 1 1/2 hours and paid for something that just broke. So he was saying the piston ring lands broke by the back pressure coming out the cylinder head. and the tremendous amount of grey smoke coming from the exhaust. He convinced me to get the motor built to hold 14 psi . So I said if i was going to builld the motor then why not go all out , darton sleeves. +2mm forged pistons , hp rods. the works. and upgraded the valves. springs. and retainers. He called me after the motor was taken out. Said the ring lands broke on one piston and scratched the cylinder wall. As far as the boost creep goes im not to sure on that , had a boost controller. Was set at 12psi. well the boost gauge never went over that. > I have 3 pieces of paper from the dyno tune , HP , TQ, A/F . How to I load them on here so maybe you can see them and get a better idea of what my car was doing , I think i have explained it all . Any help would be greatful.

 

i thought a stock accord motor could only hold 7psi from what i have read?

 

Stupidity Reasons:
1) going into 5th at 120
2) Not listening to your tuner/mechanic
3) Not having your motor checked out before installing crap
4) It depends on the size of the turbo, 14 psi on a small turbo is not near as powerful as 14psi on a T4

 

Man I have heard so many different stories of what the f22 sohc block will hold. We know the head will out preform the block . What I am getting at , is so many people told me my Low milage JDM f22b1 vtec motor could hold 250, I had 233whp. With 231wfpt. And I am thinking maybe the professional tune that i paid for might have blown my motor, not the amount of hp I was running. How could you get a f22 to get 335whp ? How much boost would that be. Say from a t3t4 turbo ?

 

My transmission runs out of forth gear at 6700 rpm at 120 mph. Right before I was shifting is when the motor went . Lost all power.

You maybe right about listening to the (tuner)

The motor was professionally installed and had 30-40k miles. I was told from the mechanic I could safely run 14psi from my t3t4 turbonetics turbo.

 

to load the pics, go to photobucket or something and upload the pics there and then you can in turn copy and past the URL of the picture onto here.

maybe you can get more help if you turn to the forced induction forum and with the pics of your graphs i bet they can be of much more help.

 

people need to stop thinking in terms of psi and start thinking of the power level as the range an engine can support. there are numerous reasons you engine could have blown...a few include:
-bad tune (I've seen a few professional tunes come out of "reputable" shops that i would not even use to idle the car)
-preexisting issue (mileage means squat...it could have been the roughest 30-40k you've ever seen, or it could be even more mileage since you didn't get a front clip with intact cluster)

 

Screw turbo size and all that stuff right now. DUDE, YOU RAN 14 PSI ON STOCK INTERNALS.

 

I told you in the original thread you jacked, that it was about 15 psi or so to make 335whp. As in the other thread you started, I can post my dyno sheet when I get home tonight if you want to keep saying 335whp is so impossible.

14 psi means **** to me... boost pressure is not an accurate way to gauge anything as said above.


Modified by twkdCD595 at 9:21 AM 5/14/2007

 

Welll that sucks. I wouldnt run 14 psi on anything stock

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord380whp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I installed a bigger flow 275lph fuel pump, AEM fuel rail, and 4 550cc RC Injectors. I installed the turbo Kit. Drove it to the Dyno Shop. ( Brauning motorsports) oh , i installed the injectors when i got there. It ran kinda crappy on the way there. Check engine light reading a MAP sensor code. Put the injectors in and hooked up a GM 3-bar map sensor, and set a base map for the hondata ecu. He started to run a few test and proceeded to tune the car. Never checked for timing or did anything else to the car. He ask me if there were anything upgraded in the motor. I said its all stock , And i told him i would ike to see 14 psi. He said my motor wouldnt hold it. I said well so many people have said that they run well with 14 psi. Any way after paying for the service I left and got on hard down the road. And at 120 going in to fifth gear. BOOM. So i drove it back. Got out the car and was cussing , I drove 1 1/2 hours and paid for something that just broke. So he was saying the piston ring lands broke by the back pressure coming out the cylinder head. and the tremendous amount of grey smoke coming from the exhaust. He convinced me to get the motor built to hold 14 psi . So I said if i was going to builld the motor then why not go all out , darton sleeves. +2mm forged pistons , hp rods. the works. and upgraded the valves. springs. and retainers. He called me after the motor was taken out. Said the ring lands broke on one piston and scratched the cylinder wall. As far as the boost creep goes im not to sure on that , had a boost controller. Was set at 12psi. well the boost gauge never went over that. &gt; I have 3 pieces of paper from the dyno tune , HP , TQ, A/F . How to I load them on here so maybe you can see them and get a better idea of what my car was doing , I think i have explained it all . Any help would be greatful. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So from what I gather from this:

So you obviously got into boost untuned on the way to your tuner... hence the check engine on the way to him for a map sensor. This is probably were the trouble all began, it just took some beating on it before it let loose for good.

Tuner never double checked your base timing, plugs, etc... just took it all for granted and started tuning. Thats not the best practice... esp. if the timing was not sync'd with what the hondata was reading, unknown heat range on the plugs, vac lines secured and a general visual inspection for obvious problems, etc... hell does not even sound like he checked any of that.

Then he basically told you he was not comfortable tuning you to 14 psi (what you wanted) when he said he did not think it would hold it... should a been a clue there that he did not know about higher hp f series and not feel confident about tuning it at that level (cause they will hold over 200whp, unlike what whomever if telling you).

 

I was told by my tech that you can SAFELY run 6psi on stock internals on an F23. 8psi would be pushing it. As it was said above, it depends on how big your turbo is too. Obviously bigger ones will produce more. It is kind of ridiculous to ask why your motor blew...you should have re-read your post and figured out that you acted immaturely about the whole situation. YOU caused your motor to blow...that's the answer.

 

theres too much 'i heard' or 'i was told...' going on in this thread. if you dont know anything for a fact and had first ahnd experiance with it, lets leave it to someone else who does to post something...

 

Why did it blow?? Cuz its an F-series...LOL eat me H haters.

Anywho sounds like a few reasons rather than 1 reason.

My edumacated guess
1.14 PSI on stock pistons=boom. Big turbo ,little turbo I dont care 14 psi is ALOT for stock pistons
2. Tuner with little to no expierence with F/H sereis engines.(not as peaky as B series)
3. Dont know the quality of your parts but money counts here buddy.

good luck with the rebuild

 

F series are quite boost friendly cb7, quite a bit more friendly than your H.....

 

boosting stock cast pistons is living on borrowed time. the ringlands will eventually crack.

I agree with twkdcd595 - sounds like you ran the car without tuning on the way there and boosted it. Not a healthy way to start. Your tuner was right, 14 psi from a t3/t4 on stock pistons is not safe IMO.

 

Stupidity. End of thread.