Weld/Fab gods: stripped JRSC mani bolt: repair in place options?
One of the bolts on my JRSC intake mani is stripped (d16z6 motor, upper bolt nearest #1 cylinder).
As far as I can tell, there's no leaks, and the other bolts are holding up fine. This is my DD, so I really don't want to remove the charger and helicoil/timesert right now. Can't fit a drill down there otherwise. I'm planning on modifying my mani with an LHT intercooler later this year, so I'll drill out and repair the threads then.
Question is: what's the best way to repair in place, have it hold for a year, and be able to remove/drill it out then? I'm considering a larger bolt, or Loctite Form-a-Thread
. Either a preference? Or is there another option?
Thanks in advance!
PM
As far as I can tell, there's no leaks, and the other bolts are holding up fine. This is my DD, so I really don't want to remove the charger and helicoil/timesert right now. Can't fit a drill down there otherwise. I'm planning on modifying my mani with an LHT intercooler later this year, so I'll drill out and repair the threads then.
Question is: what's the best way to repair in place, have it hold for a year, and be able to remove/drill it out then? I'm considering a larger bolt, or Loctite Form-a-Thread
. Either a preference? Or is there another option?Thanks in advance!
PM
Thx for the quick reply - I figured that was the correct answer. Okay - I figure I may replace the IACV & FITV while I have the coolant drained and possibly a new radiator.
While I wait for the parts, any risks on driving it for the next one or two weeks? I figure not a big one, also in light of the fact I don't know when this bolt "popped" to strip the threads.
On subject of heli-coil repair - what material? Stainless, Bronze, or ??? Free Running or Screw Lock? The intake mani studs are 8x37, so I figure the 16mm heli-coil (37mm divided by 2), which seems to be the longest, should do the trick. Am I correct?
TIA!
PM
While I wait for the parts, any risks on driving it for the next one or two weeks? I figure not a big one, also in light of the fact I don't know when this bolt "popped" to strip the threads.
On subject of heli-coil repair - what material? Stainless, Bronze, or ??? Free Running or Screw Lock? The intake mani studs are 8x37, so I figure the 16mm heli-coil (37mm divided by 2), which seems to be the longest, should do the trick. Am I correct?
TIA!
PM
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sporkcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would take a weekend day, take off the manifold, helicoil it and be able to sleep well at night</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bamf3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a timecert kit is also like 300 bucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Whatever - I have bought the complete kits with five inserts for as little as fifty bucks. The spark plug kits are the ones that cost $300.
Whatever - I have bought the complete kits with five inserts for as little as fifty bucks. The spark plug kits are the ones that cost $300.
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What retailer do you use to purchase? Like to get it in hand by next weekend so I can embark upon this project.
Any particular reason why you prefer the Timesert solution?
PM
Any particular reason why you prefer the Timesert solution?
PM
I usually go to the Time-Sert site to get the part number for the kit (or refil pack) that I want and then search for the best price. Or, just pull one close to you off this list:
http://www.timesert.com/html/distributor.html
In my experience the Time-Sert solution is much more durable than heli-coil. The inserts are very solidly anchored into the part and, in aluminum applications especially, are stronger than the original threads. I used to use heli-coil and would have to re-repair parts every once in a while, but I have never had a Time-Sert repair fail. Ever.
http://www.timesert.com/html/distributor.html
In my experience the Time-Sert solution is much more durable than heli-coil. The inserts are very solidly anchored into the part and, in aluminum applications especially, are stronger than the original threads. I used to use heli-coil and would have to re-repair parts every once in a while, but I have never had a Time-Sert repair fail. Ever.
Thx for the info. I'll get a kit and get cracking.
For an aluminum head, should I get the carbon steel or stainless?
PM
For an aluminum head, should I get the carbon steel or stainless?
PM
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PianoMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For an aluminum head, should I get the carbon steel or stainless?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I use the carbon steel because I don't want it to ever gall if I use stainless fasteners. I think the stainless inserts are for special cases like the food and medical industries (where code requires them) or applications that get wet a lot.
Best of luck with your project.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I use the carbon steel because I don't want it to ever gall if I use stainless fasteners. I think the stainless inserts are for special cases like the food and medical industries (where code requires them) or applications that get wet a lot.
Best of luck with your project.
Top R,
Thx for the advice so far - I got the stainless steel kit and carbon steel on advice of Pendergrass Tools (great service!). Includes five inserts. Going to borrow a relative's car for awhile so I can take my time and do this right.
Planning on redoing the hoseclamps as well, while the coolant's drained.
baseball,
Was considering doing that, but my path's set now... thx for the reply!
PM
Thx for the advice so far - I got the stainless steel kit and carbon steel on advice of Pendergrass Tools (great service!). Includes five inserts. Going to borrow a relative's car for awhile so I can take my time and do this right.
Planning on redoing the hoseclamps as well, while the coolant's drained.
baseball,
Was considering doing that, but my path's set now... thx for the reply!
PM
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